Last post on Oct 08, 2012 at 4:35 PM
You are in the Dodge Intrepid
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Dodge Intrepid, Sedan
#214 of 3457 Power Window Motors, Clearcoat
Aug 31, 2000 (12:35 pm)
You Intrepid owners aren't alone. My 98 Durango with only 23K miles has had the regulators and motors replaced 7 times on 3 trips to the dealer. This isn't the same dealer either. I started in Texas and am now in Nebraska. They must use the same design even though I was told the first time that they are an "improved" design. Since I'm here I'll ask a question, especially to any of you 98 Intrepid owners. Do any of you have problems with your clearcoat? I was wondering if this is just a problem with the Durango or if it is a Dodge problem or more specifically a problem they had in the 1998 model year. The slightest thing will etch the clearcoat to a point where I cannot remove even after using a prep/swirl reducer, polish, and wax. Bird droppings have etched it in less than 4 hours. Even my dog's saliva when he sticks his head out the window will etch the clearcoat. This seems awfully sensitive. My previous car was a 96 Taurus and it had armored paint. Nothing hurt it at all.
#215 of 3457 Ok, now the dealer's giving me reason...
Aug 31, 2000 (12:48 pm)
...not to trust them.
I called them about changing the differential grease, and they're telling me there is no differential, that they just do a transaxle service and that's it. They also tried to sell me a "30,000 mile service package" which was basically a cooling system flush, transaxle flush, oil change, rotate the tires, replace the air filter and pcv valve, and change the spark plugs for something like $347.00.
But if the thing has long-life coolant and long-life spark plugs, why should they need to be changed so fast? The owner's manual also said the transaxle fluid should be changed around 50K miles.
The dealer also said changing the power steering fluid was a waste, but recommended putting an additive in it to make it last longer. Any opinions on that?
The local shop I deal with also recommended changing the transaxle fluid at around 30K, but also didn't know anything about servicing the differential separately, although they at least said they'd look into it (as opposed to refusing to admit the thing even exists like my dealer did). I think I'm just going to take it to the local garage, since they'll do what the car needs, and for a heck of a lot less.
Aug 31, 2000 (2:45 pm)
sounds like your dealership is trying to take you for a ride! just follow the owner's manual for the proper care of your car and you'll be fine. and, every car has a differential, i'd hate to try and make a turn in a car without one. can't even imagine what would happen!
i think the concept of a differential becomes harder to understand with fwd cars because you can't see it, per se, like you can with a rwd car. on fwd cars, the diff and tranny are usually housed in the same casing (called transaxle) but are still separate and have their own lubrication systems and lubricant.
i'm presuming you probably have a dark colour? that's why i always buy light colours. but, no i haven't had any paint issues with my intrepids (96, 98 and 00). i did however lease a 97 ram back in 96 that had a bright spot on the box that required a repaint of one side of the box...
#217 of 3457 americanpride - clearcoat
Aug 31, 2000 (3:09 pm)
Kerry, I've had no such problems with the finish on my '99 Concorde (bright platinum metallic clearcoat). After nearly 1 year, I learned of the Zaino line of products (Zainobros.com) from other forums here at Edmunds. I can testify that these polymer finish products are GREAT! The car is always garaged so there are few opportunities to get hit by birds, etc. But, when it has, these spots come right off with minimal effort and no residual damage to the finish. If you choose to use these products you will probably have to go the full remedial process (clay etc.) to fully prep the clearcoat. It is worth the effort and these products don't really cost that much more than others. These products are much better than polishing compounds (WILL DAMAGE THE CLEARCOAT!!) and waxes that are usually very ephemeral and don't bond with the clearcoat.
The few minor (superficial scratches) that have inevitably occurred to my clearcoat have been greatly minimized by the use of these products. I have also discovered that by using a large rubber eraser (pink pencil type) I can prep these scratches by removing the damaged clearcoat so that the Zaino blends into them much better than without the prep.
#218 of 3457 Transaxle fluid
Aug 31, 2000 (3:16 pm)
My brother runs a tire shop and car repair facility. They have taken on doing this process where they suck absolutely all the fluid out of the tranny, put in some cleaner stuff (or maybe they do that first), then put in all new fluid. What do you guys think? Is this a good idea for the transaxle fluid change rather than just dropping the fluid out the bottom?
Aug 31, 2000 (4:42 pm)
My wife discovered our 'Treps first door ding. Put a pretty good divot into the plastic strip on the door AND scuffed the paint too. Why can't people watch what the $#%& they're doing???!!!
Aug 31, 2000 (11:07 pm)
andre and the rest of the gang,
concerning the 3.2/3.5l timing belt, my service tech buddy says to be sure and change it before 105k which is what the manual says. he recommends changing it by 90k just to be safe as both of these engines are not free-wheeling...meaning that if the belt breaks you'll likely have valvetrain and maybe even piston damage.
Sep 01, 2000 (12:16 pm)
Where my Taurus had a pearl black finish my Durango has the straight black color. You can't beat that deep black when it's clean but they can be a "wee" bit more difficult to take care of.
I've been using Meguir's Deep Crystal system for the prep and polish and then the gold class for wax. I do like Meguir's products a lot and have never had problems in the many years I've used them. I don't blame them for my problems because I used their products on my Taurus with absolutely no problems. I have heard a lot of talk about Zaino on Edmunds but I really don't know much about them. Just about everyone who talks about it endorses it but I need a little more than that before I want to put an "unknown" substance on my vehicle.
#222 of 3457 Where's the PCV valve...
Sep 01, 2000 (12:24 pm)
...on the 2000 2.7? I bought one from a parts store, figuring I'd just put it on myself and save myself the hassle from a dealer that wants to lube my suspension and change my spark plugs at 30K miles. But I can't find where the dang thing goes! I figured it would just plug into the valve cover somewhere, but I can't see where it goes.
Any suggestions on where to put it? (be nice, now!
Sep 01, 2000 (1:21 pm)
boy, your dealership is a dandy one...ie they wanna lube a suspension that doesn't require any lubricant.