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#21 of 6896 Re: #15 Swirl Marks by spoon2000 Jul 22, 2000 (1:42 pm)
I would challenge the assertion that swirl marks are a fact of life on dark cars. Dark cars may show swirl marks more than lighter ones, but that doesn't mean swirls can't be gotten rid of. I speak from personal experience on this having had two black cars, a dark blue car, and two dark grey cars, and having done free-lance detailing for several years. The principles of polishing a car's surface are no different than those of jewelry polishing or sanding wood. You start with a harsh abrasive (just how harsh depends on your needs or on how bad your swirls/scratches are) and work your way up through repeated steps to a less abrasive polish. In the case of car polishing, less abrasive means using a polish with a finer grit. Meguiar's makes a number of products which, if used properly and in the correct sequence, WILL remove swirl marks. "Used properly" means applied and removed with clean, 100% cotton towels for application (or an orbital buffer) and removal, out of direct sunlight, on a concrete or paved surface, on a day when there isn't dust blowing around in the air, and following a car wash with dishwashing soap (use dish soap only before waxing, not for regular car washing) to remove old wax, road oils, etc. If your car is brand new and has swirls, use Meguiar's #9 "Swirl Remover" (from Meguiar's professional line) followed by your favorite wax that does NOT have a cleaner in it. If your car is older or has not been garaged and does not look like it just came off the lot, use Meguiar's #2 "Fine-Cut Cleaner" and then proceed with #9 and a non-cleaner wax. If your car is older or has been neglected for a while, start with Meguiar's #4 "Heavy-Cut" cleaner and then proceed with #9 and a non-cleaner wax. The reason you must always use #9 Swirl Remover after using either the #2 or #4 cleaners is that the latter products will slightly scratch your car as they're cleaning its surface. But the "damage" is undone by #9. The reason I say use a non-cleaner wax is that many cleaners in "one-step" waxes are harsh enough to put swirls back into your paint. See http://www.meguiars.com/ for more on this. Don't EVER use "rubbing compound" or "polishing compound" as these are imprecisely formulated, harsh products designed to be used after repainting, not for precision paint care like we're talking about here. Finally, car polishing isn't something to be taken lightly or on the spur of the moment. It requires at least a half day (preferably in the morning before it gets too hot). It's always helpful to have someone around who can assist with removing the cleaner/wax so you can save your energy for the next cleaner/wax application step. If you're fanatic about your car's appearance, an orbital buffer is a terrific investment. You can get one at Sears for around $50 when there's a sale or you can shell out for a more heavy duty one (I use a Cyclo brand buffer that retails for about $250). What ever you do, don't use a wool buffing pad on your car. Even many body shop "professionals" get into trouble with those by burning paint, putting in deep swirls, etc. And if you drop your applicator or wipe-off towel on the floor, by all means put it aside and grab a fresh one so you're not rubbing dirt back into your paint. Good luck.
#22 of 6896 shiftod: wax test by jwilson1 Jul 26, 2000 (12:57 am)
I've been away, so I know this is late, but: it ain't rocket science. The mark is either in the wax or in the clearcoat or in the pigment paint. You can eliminate one of these immediately simply by removing the wax from the hood (only); as explained in the above post, you can do this with a washing or two with dishwashing detergent (Dawn with its grease/wax cutting agents works real quick). If the haze/swirl/whatever is gone, you're all set with just a rewax (using cotton towels, etc.) If it's still there, whoever had it before did something to the paint. You really don't have to know what -- if it bothers you, take it back to the dealer ASAP and say (pointing to the obvious problem): "Fix that." Take care. Joe W.
#23 of 6896 major probs at 800 miles by a6probs Jul 26, 2000 (10:10 pm)
I bought a new A6 2.7 Turbo with 480 miles on it. Drove it for a week without incident. Then while driving at low speed and without warning the engine began emitting a foul smell and I had difficulty shifting. I pulled over smoke came from under the hood. Car towed by flatbed to dealer. Eventually it was determined that the clutch had burned out because the master cylinder was sticking. They replaced the clutch and master cylinder. Initially they tried to claim that in 300 miles I had burned out the clutch because of "driver error" and wouldn't cover it under warranty. When I told them I was still on my first clutch with my 10 year old Saab they did not pursue this tac any further. Anybody had similar problems either with major problems very early with their A6, or with the dealer trying to deny warranty coverage? Thanks, Ed P
#24 of 6896 Long Term Reliability... by rwcole88 Jul 27, 2000 (1:24 am)
Well, after many months of reading thie forum and Audiworld, I've decided to move forward and lease 00' Silver and Black A6 2.8. I can't wait!! One question - For those of you who have had the car for 1 year plus with higher mileage, how has the car held up? Thanks for your help!!!
#25 of 6896 . by bruno7 Jul 27, 2000 (2:10 am)
I have a 99 A6 2.8 with 15k miles on it. I have had no problems except the fuel gauge which was promptly replaced by the dealer.
#26 of 6896 Ongoing Problems by robertkmg Jul 27, 2000 (6:10 pm)
Well, it looks as if I have gotten the one flawed A6 2.7T that was been purchased by any of us. As we speak, Audi is trying to figure out how to release me from my lease and refund my down payment and lease payments. My mechanical problems, while not (yet) performance inhibiting are been quite a nuisance, resulting in eight trips to service in less than five months. Each time, Audi has suggested a repair methodology, generally dictated by the regional lead maintenance expert. Audi has even had factory personnel involved, but nobody has yet to figure out what the source of the problem is or how to eliminate it. Now here is my dilemma; assuming that Audi does make this accomodation, which appears likely,why should I replace this car w/ another 2.7T vs. a 328i or MB320CLK? I'd very much appreciate anyone's subjective opinions. If you would like, feel free to eMail me directly at kornhausereglobaltelehealth.com. Thanks.
#27 of 6896 Ongoing Problems, continued by robertkmg Jul 27, 2000 (8:05 pm)
For those of you that might be interested in my ongoing saga, I received a call from Audi that they now want to pull the engine for a second time and replace the turbos. Even with this, they are not convinced that the problem will be resolved. They said that my car will be unavailable for another two weeks, making it four straight on this visit to service alone. I have gone way beyond beyond frustrated. Any thoughts?
#28 of 6896 Re: #26 Ongoing Problems by spoon2000 Jul 27, 2000 (9:20 pm)
Have the magic words "Lemon Law" come up in any of your discussions with your dealer or with Audi? Based on what you've described, it sounds like you are very close to owning what would be considered a "lemon" under the consumer protection laws of most states. Under most state laws, dealers are required (as my salesperson did at delivery) to disclose that lemon laws exist and to point out the brochure called "Owner Information about Consumer Protection Laws" that should have been in your glove box when you bought the car. Identify what state you're in and I'll paraphrase what the booklet says about your situation (assuming your booklet is stranded in the glovebox of the car at the dealer).
#29 of 6896 Post's 25 and 26. by timcar Jul 27, 2000 (9:56 pm)
Bob, I would suggest taking a look at this link: http://www.autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_Lemon.html As to your question concerning a replacement, why did you get the 2.7T in the first place? I don't know what all your problems are, but most people are pretty happy with the quality, though there are horror stories. Statistically, the Subaru Legacy is one of most trouble free models, yet my wife is on her third entire ENGINE with less than 50k miles. If I were you, if I wanted another 2.7T, I would get one. If I wanted something else, I'd get that instead.
#30 of 6896 Robertkmg by ported Jul 27, 2000 (10:39 pm)
I am surprised Audi has not just replaced the vehicle, under the current lease. Transfering the lease to a different, equivalent asset would seem to be not that difficult. Was this proposed? You probably have the equivalent $$$ wrapped up in the everyone's time, parts, etc.

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