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Re: what to do with our Acura Legend 1987? [acurafan4040]
by jayofalltrade
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Oct 22, 2009 (5:36 pm)
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Replying to: acurafan4040 (Sep 14, 2009 4:42 pm)
Best is to sell it and have the other guy solve the problem. Look here, 1987 to 2009 is actually 22 years ago....I think you see the picture. However, Legends are made to last so I suggest first get and tune up (change ignition rotor, Cap, plugs and wires) this should solve the missing. Have an oil change and top up the fluids. Transmission whining means only one thing either is worn out (gears) or low in transmission fluid. The alternator is a 90 amps rated made by beck and arney and it is around 116 USD at pep -bees plus the cost of the core (old alternator) they usually add 36 usd for it. Turning over the core to them will refund you the 36 USD. Replace all the engine belts..then check all the wheel brakes pads. I suggest you do all these in sked but do the engine first and foremost. You're project legend will cost you approximately 2 grand or more but if you know some guy who can help, yes, bring it over. Inde. shop might help. Lastly, don't rush things. I assure you, won't regret it. I got one and it still running strong at 354 thous miles. Power and response is awesome hopefully the new cars the make today can match it. Good luck.
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- #787 of 788
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Re: Flashing D4 [mbaber]
by jayofalltrade
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Oct 22, 2009 (5:55 pm)
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Replying to: mbaber (Oct 19, 2009 9:04 am)
I want to give you some history on speedometer .. they used to be taken direct from the the transmission gears connected to a flexible cable which is attached behind the speedometer gage at the dash board. Yeah, the one in front of you when you are driving. Now, one electronic engineer replaced that with a small motor (actually an electric generator producing milli amps/volts ) connected to a flexible cable or direct gearing into the transmission (located outside the tranny) which in turn wired to the logic board in dash which is read by the transducer and translated into a digital (signal) numbers or dial gage display. Speed sensor can be order at rock auto. com ..cheap too. Replacement and installation is very straight forward but you should know where it is located. Check your maintenance book or maybe google can help.
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- #788 of 788
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Re: problems starting too [talon2012x]
by jayofalltrade
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Oct 22, 2009 (6:23 pm)
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Replying to: talon2012x (Oct 07, 2009 6:26 am)
Although you did not particularly mentioned what actually going on about the failure. I will give you some pointers to help you. An engine will only start if the ignition, fuel, and starting system are working good. Assuming you engine turns over when you turn the key, a failed start means there is nt Gasoline into the cylinders. Either the fuel injectors are not working or the fuel pump is dead. For fuel injected engine, you need a pressure to push that gasoline from the injectors into the intake port ..so no pump..no pressure no start. Now, assuming the pump is working and gasoline is present into the cylinders. the one at fault is the ignition system. You need the spark to burn the compressed air and fuel in the cylinders. To test for spartk, take out one spark plug wire and insert a philips screw driver into the end and lay it down on top of the engine close to a metal surface but not touching the engine. Have somebody turn the key to start and watch if spark come out of the screw drive body. (do not touch while engine is turning for it will shock you ) Absence of spark means the ignition module is shot assuming the pick up coil and reluctor inside the distributor is in good condition. (this seldom gets bad ) If spark is present, then check the pump. To test it, get someone open the gas tank and stick his ear close to the opening and listen for a buzsing sound
when the car is being started. The buzz means the pump is working but the injectors are not .. system presure is too low. No buzz, the pump is dead. You need a tech to work on fuel system due to risk of fire and hazard to you health.
The ignition module is is located close to the ignition coil left side of the engine bay, on top of the right fender near the fuse and relay box. It has two (2) ten millimeter bolts and a wire socket coming out of it. It aprox inch and half square and 5/16 or 3/8 inch thick. Hope this helps.
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