Last post on Jan 21, 2011 at 10:46 AM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
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Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan
#3372 of 3389 1999 Ford Taurus Problem
Jan 19, 2009 (12:11 pm)
I have a 1999 Ford Taurus Wagon. To avoid a wreck I put the car into reverse from drive and accelerated hard. The tires squeaked and all of the sudden the car made a grinding noise. When I put it up it into any other gear it made the same noise. I can only put it in park or neutral. When I jacked it up onto stands and put it in drive it makes the grinding noise only when my foot is on the brake. When I release the brake the wheels spin. I was thinking the problem could be a broken halfshaft either on the left or right side, but I am not sure. If you are experienced and have any knowledge on this please post back.
#3373 of 3389 94 sable transmission problem
Jul 13, 2009 (2:47 pm)
94 sable w/3.8 engine and 72000 original miles. transmission last serviced at 69000 miles with no problems. system flushed and new filter. the transmission seems to slip or is sluggish after getting up to temp and in overdrive. Problem not present when not using OD.
#3374 of 3389 1993 mercury sable
Jul 20, 2009 (1:51 pm)
have a problem with a 1993 mercury sable 3.8 v6 rev up to 2000 rpm and car shts down even while driving otherwise runs great help please
#3375 of 3389 What exactly constitutes overdrive?
Dec 16, 2009 (6:56 pm)
I noticed that whenever the temperature dips below freezing the overdrive
won't engage for the first 10-15 minutes of driving. I asked my dealer if I was having
the stuck solenoid problem mentioned on the maintenance & repair
discussion. They explained that the torque converter needs to be at a
certain temperature. This seems odd that the overdrive is actually the
locking of the torque converter. My old Regal had a separate overdrive
gear ratio from the lock up feature. This is rather annoying since I have
a short highway commute and it impacts my winter mileage.
2001 SEL Duratec 24V
#3376 of 3389 front end suspension
Feb 28, 2010 (9:09 am)
I heard a lound clunk only to find outthat the spring or strut in theleft front end had broken and that the left front tire was loose. There may be a problem with the ball joint and now, I guess I'm looking at a costly repair. Any comments on a loose stut or ball joint collapse?
#3377 of 3389 quality of 2000 mercury sable ls premium sedan
Mar 11, 2010 (3:33 pm)
Almost ten years and 138,000+ miles and I must compliment the engineers at Mercury (Ford). No major problems and what is most remarkable is what I have not had to do:
1) no unexpected major repairs except fuel pump replacement in subzero weather with a low tank (I have since learned not to let it go low since the gas cools (or in this case warms) the pump. Probably my bad.
2) one brake job.
3) one serpentine belt
4) no bulbs replaced or electrical problems
5) original headlights and lamps
6) good power and pickup (about 85% of new performance).
7) still the original fuel filter (I am going to change it since I recently learned that change is recommended every 15K miles--gads am I lucky to get 140K?)
8) the original spark plugs.
9) I changed the transmission fluid and brake fluid once at about 100K.
10) The leatherette drivers seat and back window panel are creased, broken and falling off but that's easily covered or fixed.
11) one battery replacement.
12) new front stabilizer links and lower ball joints at 130K.
13) original exhaust system with no issues (remarkable).
14) original air conditioner charge and ice cold air delivery.
15) good fuel economy approx 20 city and 30 highway with cruise control at 65-70mph.
16) no complaints ergonomically or otherwise.
If you get the idea I strongly endorse the product and the engineering at Ford. I am very pleasantly surprised. I used to own a BMW and expensive repairs and replacements were the rule not the exception, even the drive shaft needed to be replaced, brakes every 25K, horrendously expensive.
#3378 of 3389 Re: quality of 2000 mercury sable ls premium sedan [pod]
Mar 11, 2010 (5:39 pm)
I have 127K miles on 2002 Mercury Sable and did not have any problems at all.
Fuel filter has to be changed every 30K miles. I did not change serpantine belt, brakes though. Changed battery once and tires also once (better change because stock tires suck).
Spark plugs must be changed at 100K and it is expensive. Do not forget to replace also wires.
#3379 of 3389 Re: 1993 mercury sable [goldbond1]
Mar 21, 2010 (3:24 pm)
Did you ever find an answer to this? It's happening to me also and the tranny has been replaced.
#3380 of 3389 headlight lens cleaner that works very well
Mar 21, 2010 (4:45 pm)
I had scratched my drivers side headlight lens with an abrasive cleaner and decided to try a walmart product rather than try to replace it (expensive since the whole unit has to be replaced; you can't just replace the plastic outer lens). It is called "CV" or something like that. It is in a 10"x8" aluminum foil package and costs $20. It has specifically and clearly marked abrasive papers and cleaner and sealant and provides all you need (except a source of water--recommend spray bottle to keep lens wet during first rubbings).
It takes about 20 minutes each side to follow the instructions and the lenses are looking like brand new. I couldn't believe how well this worked. The lenses are like brand new and clear as new glass! No hard work required just persistent gentle rubbing as in the instructions. The capper is that it seals the finished product with a hardener which should make a repeat in 10 years unnecessary. This is a rare product which does what it says for $20. I wanted to pass this on simply because it is so good and inexpensive.
#3381 of 3389 Re: 2000 mercury sable fuel filter change[pod]
Apr 25, 2010 (6:38 pm)
Had the time today to change the fuel filter. Cost about $9 at walmart. The hardest part is getting a safe elevation of the passenger rear of the tire. I have a floor jack and put it on one on the wishbones with a 2x6 between. Once off the ground the filter and hoses are very accessible with just my head under the car. The prep is: (1) remove fuse 16 from engine fuse box. This is power to the fuel pump. (2) start the car and let it use up the fuel between the pump and injectors (2-3 minutes then it stalled). This prevents high pressure in the lines and spraying gas when you break the connection. (3) a regular (non-phillips) screwdriver. (4)some rags to soak up the inevitable drippage of gasoline when you are removing the filter. (safety glasses just in case).
The plastic clips can be lifted from the fuel hose with the tip of the screw driver (think of lifting a staple from wood with a screwdriver). Gentle pressure and they come off in one piece (the filter comes with a pair as well if you break them). Then pry the end of the hose off the fuel cannister with the flat blade of the screwdriver. They came off easily even after 140K miles. The cannister is secured with a radiator hose clamp. Unscrew it, jiggle the cannister out of the protective metal shield (there to prevent road debris from rusting the cannister) and reverse these steps to connect the new cannister.
Once done turn the key from off to on (but not start) 5-10 times. You will hear the fuel pump come on strongly at first and then more quietly. Turn the key to start and off you go. It didn't even have to crank more than usual.
The drainage from the pump side of the cannister was foul looking: black-brown but liquid, no sludge or large particulate pieces. I haven't cut the cannister open yet to see the inside situation.
Further reading of how often to change the fuel filter has convinced me that they don't need to be changed very often. New Toyotas, I read, say it never needs to be changed. I have read other stories about fuel filters not being changed for 250K. The symptom of a clogged filter would be hesitation and reduced acceleration and reduced top speed (none of which I noted at 140K miles). One poster made a good point,however. He opined that the fuel pump has to work harder to push the fuel through a partially spent filter and that would shorten the life of the pump. Certainly the back pressure on the pump for a given flow would be higher. Since replacing the fuel pump requires dropping the gas tank it is expensive.
In any case I think everyone can be confident that changing the filter every 40-50K is more than sufficient.
Again kudos to the design engineers. Many cars require a special tool to disconnect the hoses from the cannister. Also every thing is right there in front of you and easily accessible.
Takes about 45 minutes the first time. I will never change it again but if I had to I could do it in 20 minutes now that I know the routine.