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What is this discussion about? Dodge Neon, Plymouth Neon, Sedan

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#821 of 1758 THX for your report by dweezil Sep 19, 2001 (5:46 am)
on the Ultradrive. Sounds like like got a winner. I do believe C/R people are engineers....and elitists.I really think they have encouraged people to investigate products to the point of paranoia.And I am not saying I'm immune to it. Just take it with a pound of salt. Dave
#822 of 1758 71Charger, Buoyant by zapatista2000 Sep 19, 2001 (9:40 am)
71Charger- I live and work on the Hill. I'm willing to take it anywhere that I can get back home on the Metro while they work on it. The code it's giving me is a 32--EGR System Failure. Some folks on the neons.org board have had the same problem and it seems to be a minor issue that sometimes just goes away (a la Buoyant's approach to auto mechanics) and other times is remedied for a maximum of $200 for a new sensor and labor, or something like that. Some even have decided to block off the EGR system entirely. If you have any suggestions of Metro-accessible shops that are trustworthy, I'd greatly appreciate it.   Buoyant--Sounds like you and I live by the fate meted out to us by Murphy's law. I blame my Irish grandmother.
#823 of 1758 Irish grandmothers and faulty Neons by buoyant Sep 19, 2001 (6:57 pm)
I'd blame mine too, but since she's no longer with us I'll just blame it on the German one. Damn Germans.   Out of curiousity, is the light coming on red or amber in color? Amber warning lights can usually be ignored (particularly if they come on intermittently) whereas the red ones signal impending doom.   Personally, I would ignore any orange light signaling a malfunction in the emissions system.   But if the light REALLY bothers you, invest $3 in an allen wrench, pop off the gauge cover and pull the thing out completely. This way you'll have that fresh finished look (no tape) and then you can take the $197 you saved and blow it on a new 20" Color TV, 120 Steak Chalupas or perhaps a ceramic kitty-cat if you're into that kind of thing.
#824 of 1758 Reed Brothers Dodge comes to mind by 71charger Sep 19, 2001 (7:26 pm)
Reed Brothers Dodge on the pike in Rockville, MD has always treated me well (except their body shop manager, but that's not where your problem is). It's a dealer and you'll pay premium prices but they are literally right next to the Shady Grove station on the Red Line. Carmax is right across the the Metro driveway from them. It's as far out as you can get on the Metro but I've never known them to do unnecessary work. I'll ask around at work when I can. These are pretty hectic days and I've been open-endedly (is that a word?) transferred to second shift. I'll see if I can get any other recommendations for you.
#825 of 1758 Reed Brothers by snowman Sep 19, 2001 (7:51 pm)
Indeed We have very good experience with them. Their mechanics are very good.
#826 of 1758 197 Bottles of Beer by zapatista2000 Sep 20, 2001 (7:23 am)
I could blow it in a big way at dollar Bud night at any number of establishments around my office. That reminds me of a funny story about my boss, but back to the car...   Thanks for the Reed Brothers advice. It's an amber light that comes and goes and I might give it a few more days to see if it goes away again. If not, I think I'll take it up to Rockville and maybe play some pinball at Jillian's at White Flint on the way back (why is it that there are no dart boards or pinball machines in this entire city? The things I miss about Minnesota......) Thanks again for the help.   Open-endedly sounds like a discription of our newest made-for-TV war, "Operation Infinite Justice."
#827 of 1758 Check your grounds and wiring connectors by 71charger Sep 20, 2001 (7:30 pm)
Before you spend any money on fixing an amber light it might be an intermittent problem in a wiring connection. At least eyeball your ground connections and make sure they look good. Pull apart and reconnect as many connectors as you can. There may be a small bit of corrosion in there somewhere. As the temperature of the wires rise so does the resistance. At a certain temp point you may be getting to where there is insufficient current flow through a connector giving a false fault reading. Saved me some money doing this when the temp gauge suddenly started going nuts in my Lancer.
#828 of 1758 great idea by zapatista2000 Sep 21, 2001 (6:26 am)
You know, after going away, the light has come on again twice during pretty long trips, so maybe that's it. I hate to say it, but I have no idea where my ground connections are, where to look for them or what they look like. Is there a resource online--maybe a pictoral tutorial somewhere?
#829 of 1758 Just look for the black wires by 71charger Sep 21, 2001 (6:38 pm)
Look for where black wires are connected to the sheetmetal with, appropriately enough, sheetmetal screws. Usually on the back side of the radiator support, inner fenders, firewall and such. See if any look corroded. Or just take all you can find apart, scrape any crud (hate to load you down with this technical jargon) off the eyelets and where they attach and screw it back together. There are probably small ground straps on your motor mounts to maintain electrical continuity from the engine to the rest of the car as the engine is suspended in rubber bushings. These grounds are usually bare braided steel with a clip on each end that is just pushed on. Give those (if you can find them) a wiggle so the steel can bite through any surface rust. As for the rest, as I said, just pull connectors apart and put them back together. Just make sure you check for any tabs that have to be pushed in/pulled out to release them before you just yank on them. Broken wiring connectors are a major pain. You probably don't want to disconnect the grounds from the battery as that will kill your clock and radio presets.
#830 of 1758 Got It by zapatista2000 Sep 24, 2001 (1:11 pm)
Thanks for the detailed how-to. I'll give it a shot when it stops raining and report back.

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