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Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

3244 messages,  Last post on Aug 25, 2009 at 8:13 PM

You are in the Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Ford Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis, Exterior, Sedan


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#1521 of 3244
by jrosasmc
Aug 07, 2002 (4:36 am)
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Do the 2003 Crown Vic/Grand Marquis still use a rigid live axle in the rear?
#1523 of 3244
1999 Grand Marquis Ls is wonderful.... by cuesew
Aug 17, 2002 (8:24 pm)
Reply
Just a note to all... I have had my 1999 Grand Marquis for about 5 weeks now... All I can say is I LOVE IT!!!! I bought this car with 11,000 miles for $10,000 private... The car rides as nice as my 95 town car with more toys.... I would like to have better gas miles... But am very happy with the looks, ride and comfort... Since I have owned this car, I can't believe how many I see on the road.....
#1524 of 3244
Air conditioner fan by 93cvowner
Aug 20, 2002 (4:14 pm)
Reply
Hello all,
          This forum has been a pleasure to read and extremely helpful on problems with my 93CVLX. However, I have a new problem that I have not seen addressed previously. The air conditioner fan now only works in auto mode for a short while then quits completely. I have to set it at max hi for it run again. If I put it anywhere else in between auto and manual hi, it stops altogether. Has anyone experienced this problem ? Any ideas would be much appreciated. TIA Bedra
#1525 of 3244
cuesew - What Mileage, by harmar
Aug 20, 2002 (6:10 pm)
Reply
out of curiosity, are you getting? I've seen complaints in prior postings about getting 16 mpg, but a buddy who has driven GMs for years has consistently averaged 22 - 26 (town - freeway), and I've averaged 25 - 28 (town - freeway). My buddy tends to have a lead foot, while I do not.
 
My '00 GM is, without a doubt, the best car I've ever owned. Gas it, service it per factory suggestions, and go! (I am aware of other's suggestions re: rear axle problems, etc.)
#1526 of 3244
AC Fan by ron35
Aug 21, 2002 (4:16 am)
Reply
93cvowner - I have had this problem with several vehicles. The cause of your problem is a defective variable resistor, which controls the fan speed. In some vehicles it is under the dash and in others it is on the firewall under the hood. It normally is not an expensive part but it can be difficult to get to. Unfortunately I cannot tell you where it is on a 93 CV.
 
Ron35
#1527 of 3244
cuesew: Want more MPG? Add 3 lbs to tire pressure. by kinley
Aug 21, 2002 (3:24 pm)
Reply
Maximum 35 lbs per tire.
#1528 of 3244
Another problem rears its ugly head by 93cvowner
Aug 21, 2002 (5:08 pm)
Reply
Hello again guys. Two of my power windows have come down with a problem with the cables that make them go up and down. The motors work just fine, but the windows are not moving. I recall that this was discussed a long time ago here, but I cannot find it. I am thinking that it must be prior to the new forum and I cannot figure out how to access the older boards. If anyone remembers what the problem was and how to solve it, I would be ever so grateful. I love my CV it runs flawlessly other than these two problems. Thanks again guys.
Bedra
#1529 of 3244
Power Windows by ron35
Aug 22, 2002 (5:08 am)
Reply
Bedra - Below is a post I saved from a different forum www.crownvic.net (they have archives and FAQ which you can go to for further help). There is someone who advertises on E-Bay (do a search on For Crown Victoria) who sells these power window regulators, which he has rebuilt using stronger materials, they are cheaper than from Ford and supposed to last much longer.
 
"It actually pretty easy. Fortunately I bought a couple of specialized tools in 92 that make the job much easier and less time consuming. On average takes about 30 minutes. You can alway rent the two tools I've described or carefully use the alternate meathod.
 
Tools Needed
Regulator ($45+-)
Drill
Pliers
1/4 inch (I think) drill bit
Hammer
1/8 inch punch (I think)
Vacuum
Large 1/4"? rivet gun
2 long and 2 short aluminum or better still nylon
rivets
Special tool is to mill off the existing aluminum rivet head (on the window glass) for easy removal. Imagine a short 1/2" diameter mill end with a hole in the center to use in your drill. The shaft from the rivet, in the middle of the head fits into this hole and mills off the rivet head. Facilitates pin removal with minimal stress on the glass.
 
From Memory
Disconnect battery.
Remove the door panel.
Pull window glass to 3/4 up positon.
Mill off rivet head from window. Need to align with opening in door. Gently tap out the rivet pin with punch/hammer. (or support back side of regulator at window rivet with piece of wood and knock out pin W/O breaking glass!)You'll need to reuse plastic/metal spaces. Metal to inside.
Use 1/4 inch drill to drill out rivet. (may need to hold back side of rivet with pliers if it starts to spin)Then do 2nd rivet at window.
Knock out other 2 rivet pins in door and drill out rivet in same manner.
Remove 2 nuts in window regulator at top center of door.
Disconnect elec wire from motor.
Remove 3 screws in door to remove elec motor. 1 or 2 of the screws only need to be loosened and motor will pivot out from open hole.
Manipulate and remove regulator. Dont need to remove window unless you want some more room (remove rubber seal at top first)It's a bit tight with the two studs at the top, jussut go easy.
Vacuum up all debris from inside door, floor and elsewhere.
 
Insert new regulator. Two nuts at top finger tight for now.
Connect motor to regulator hub. BE CAREFUL not to pull outward on hub. It may come out, wire and all.
Secure motor to door. May need some adjusting as you go.
Insert 2 rivets (do not expand yet)at door to regualtor.
Insert disks into window holes. Move window up so holes align with opening in door to insert rivets.Probably need to connect battery and raise regulator to position and insert rivets.
Align and fit rivets in holes and verify proper placement glass in track and regulator.
Secure rivets in door.
Secure rivets in window.
Tighten 2 nuts at top of regulator.
(an alternate to rivets is nuts, washers, bolts and lock tite. Be VERY careful tightening nuts in the glass. Very easy to get a bit strong and shatter the glass.)
Check operation of glass. Use silicon on track.
Replace door panel.
Now you're ready for the other side.
Secure rivets in window
  
It actually pretty easy. Fortunately I bought a couple of specialized tools in 92 that make the job much easier and less time consuming. On average takes about 30 minutes. You can alway rent the two tools I've described or carefully use the alternate meathod.
 
Tools Needed
Regulator ($45+-)
Drill
Pliers
1/4 inch (I think) drill bit
Hammer
1/8 inch punch (I think)
Vacuum
Large 1/4"? rivet gun
2 long and 2 short aluminum or better still nylon
rivets
Special tool is to mill off the existing aluminum rivet head (on the window glass) for easy removal. Imagine a short 1/2" diameter mill end with a hole in the center to use in your drill. The shaft from the rivet, in the middle of the head fits into this hole and mills off the rivet head. Facilitates pin removal with minimal stress on the glass.
 
From Memory
Disconnect battery.
Remove the door panel.
Pull window glass to 3/4 up positon.
Mill off rivet head from window. Need to align with opening in door. Gently tap out the rivet pin with punch/hammer. (or support back side of regulator at window rivet with piece of wood and knock out pin W/O breaking glass!)You'll need to reuse plastic/metal spaces. Metal to inside.
Use 1/4 inch drill to drill out rivet. (may need to hold back side of rivet with pliers if it starts to spin)Then do 2nd rivet at window.
Knock out other 2 rivet pins in door and drill out rivet in same manner.
Remove 2 nuts in window regulator at top center of door.
Disconnect elec wire from motor.
Remove 3 screws in door to remove elec motor. 1 or 2 of the screws only need to be loosened and motor will pivot out from open hole.
Manipulate and remove regulator. Dont need to remove window unless you want some more room (remove rubber seal at top first)It's a bit tight with the two studs at the top, jussut go easy.
Vacuum up all debris from inside door, floor and elsewhere.
 
Insert new regulator. Two nuts at top finger tight for now.
Connect motor to regulator hub. BE CAREFUL not to pull outward on hub. It may come out, wire and all.
Secure motor to door. May need some adjusting as you go.
Insert 2 rivets (do not expand yet)at door to regualtor.
Insert disks into window holes. Move window up so holes align with opening in door to insert rivets.Probably need to connect battery and raise regulator to position and insert rivets.
Align and fit rivets in holes and verify proper placement glass in track and regulator.
Secure rivets in door.
Secure rivets in window.
Tighten 2 nuts at top of regulator.
(an alternate to rivets is nuts, washers, bolts and lock tite. Be VERY careful tightening nuts in the glass. Very easy to get a bit strong and shatter the glass.)
Check operation of glass. Use silicon on track.
Replace door panel.
Now you're ready for the other side.
Secure rivets in window"
#1530 of 3244
Wow! I'm impressed. by kinley
Aug 22, 2002 (9:07 pm)
Reply

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