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Mazda 626
Mazda 626

2018 messages, Last post on Oct 09, 2009 at 1:07 PM
You are in the Mazda 626 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: igachoo (Mar 07, 2009 2:48 pm) I recently had a front wheel bearing replaced on my 93 626 ES. The noise I had was an annoying "humming" sound which oscillated slowly when the car was driven above 80 kph. Based on your description of the sound, it's more likely that it's a drive shaft (CV joint) issue. When the steering wheel is turned, the car is driven at SLOW speeds (it's easiest to hear when the car is driven slowly) there is a loud, almost knocking or clicking sound. This is a CV joint problem. Crawl under your car, check to see if the CV boots are torn. If so, then there's a high probability that the joints are gone. When the boots are torn, the grease is thrown out and sand/grit get into the joints destroying them. Replace the entire drive shaft; it's way easier. As for diagnosing the trouble codes, use a 12 volt LED test light (a test light with an incandescent bulb should work too but not sure if the "load" will be too high), put one side to ground and probe the terminals in the diagnostic (black) plug near the driver's side shock tower. Use the link below to get the codes, the associated faults and the diagnostic plug configuration. The mx-6 and 626's use the same fault codes. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mx6-uk/maint/maint.htm#malfcode |
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| I have had this mazda for a few months now. I bought it was a blown motor and bought another mazda wrecked and swapped motors. Has had normal issues with a motor swap like always, and have been fixed. I now have a problem me and my boss can't figure out. We are both mechanics but this is our first mazda issue like this. It runs great until it gets to operating temp. and then its rough all the time. Chugs, rough idle, and just won't stop acting up. Only when its cold it runs good, but as soon as it even starts to heat up, its on from there. Any help? | |
| I have a 1992 626. My drivers headlight assembly was damaged in a small accident. Any idea on how much it'll cost to replace? | |
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Well Guys and Gals its been a while since I have had any problems and posted in this forum. Well I am back The master switch at drivers door does absolutely nothing for any window, including drivers! The remaining 3 passenger windows operate properly from each individual switch. The only odd thing is when trying to lower any of the three passenger windows from its own switch, attempting to raise it from the drivers door master switch at the same exact time, blocks it from going down. So therefore I assume some current is being sent to the passenger window motors, which either blocks it creates a Mexican Standoff? Attemping to raise any of the passenger windows from its own switch is not blocked by trying to lower it from the drivers master switch. I have checked fuses in floor panel and moved the locking switch from locked to unlocked many times. I disconnected battery and depressed brake pedal fo 5 seconds to clear any codes etc., in an attempt to reset circuit breakers My wife said this happened to her once before and it came back to proper operation by itself. |
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Looking for the installation instructions for the rear speakers on my '02 626. I assume that the rear seat sides have to be removed, then the deck under the rear window. Car is running great! As always, I keep it well maintained, in the past year having no major issues. However next month, I have to upgrade the suspension. Roads in Montreal are war-zone caliber, and with 170 000 km on the clock, the shocks and springs are to be replaced, or else the rest of the suspension components will deteriorate at a faster rate.. The best thing about the car is the 5-speed with the 2.0 L, the engine pulls very strongly. |
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Replying to: atomtan2 (May 09, 2004 7:44 am) |
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