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Sedans Mazda 626 Mazda 626
2018 messages, Last post on Oct 09, 2009 at 1:07 PM
You are in the Mazda 626 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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I have a great 1999 Mazda 626ES V6. Yesterday the guys servicing my car told me that I needed a new cap on my coolant system because it was "missing the lower part". I just figured that they were trying to sell me a part so I said I'd fix it later. I bought a a new cap at the auto store. The new cap has a lift up release tab and a lower pressure seal. I opened the hood and realized there were two (2) coolant caps. The problem is that they look like they have been switched, and the one on the engine will NOT come out. It will loosen, but not pull out. The spring loaded yellow lable cap is now on the engine and the red lable flat bottom cap is on the coolant reservoir. My diagram says that is reversed, so they must be switched. Is all that right? How do I get the stuck cap off? Does the loose cap make the coolant evaporate? Which cap really belongs where? Thanks for your help.
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Replying to: dunin3 (Jan 06, 2009 11:10 pm) |
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| Can anyone tell me what they did to fix the reason for the transmission slipping from second to third only everything else works perfect | |
Just got over 102k on my 2000 ES. Took it in today for an oil change. Had a $75 Mazda gift card (a customer service gesture from Mazda when I complained about having to replace the PVC hose again on my MPV, which I dumped shortly thereafter), and I had to use it all at once. So I thought, heck, change the air filter too--can't hurt. Those plus some touchup paint cost me $0.29.  The car is a little over 8 years old because it was originally put into service in December 2000. I've owned it for a little over 3 years, only put 18k on it in that time. Car still runs very well. Engine is gruff, but the car is tight, no rattles, still handles well, leather interior is holding up well, and no rust yet (pretty good for being through 9 Minnesota winters). I haven't had to do much to it. Added a tranny cooler right off the start ($200), but that solved a balky transmission. Also had to replace some rear bushings because of a clunky noise, and the driver's power window regulator. Put a couple of new tires on last year also--one was punctured and kept losing air. That's about it except normal maintenance. My son rear-ended someone nearly 3 years ago, over $4000 in damage including the airbags, but he only got a scratch on his arm--and a greater appreciation for maintaining safe distance behind other cars based on conditions. I am hoping the car holds up without major work needed for a couple more years, until my son finishes school. So far, so good. |
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Has anyone ever had the front bearings replaced on a 94 626 with a standard transmission? I think that I can do the job myself though I understand some special tools are required. I suspect the bearings because the car makes a noise like a giant impatiently drumming his fingers on a table whenever the steering is thrown over to the right or to the left. also, my engine check lite comes on from time to time; can anyone suggest where to buy the diagnostic tool necessary to check the sensors? thanks very much.
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Can anyone tell me what this is for (O/D Flashing)and can i continue to drive it like this? Any help would be great.... thanks MIKE G.
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Replying to: mikeg14 (Mar 18, 2009 7:37 pm)
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Replying to: windowphobe6 (Mar 20, 2009 5:36 pm) |
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Replying to: igachoo (Mar 07, 2009 2:48 pm) I recently had a front wheel bearing replaced on my 93 626 ES. The noise I had was an annoying "humming" sound which oscillated slowly when the car was driven above 80 kph. Based on your description of the sound, it's more likely that it's a drive shaft (CV joint) issue. When the steering wheel is turned, the car is driven at SLOW speeds (it's easiest to hear when the car is driven slowly) there is a loud, almost knocking or clicking sound. This is a CV joint problem. Crawl under your car, check to see if the CV boots are torn. If so, then there's a high probability that the joints are gone. When the boots are torn, the grease is thrown out and sand/grit get into the joints destroying them. Replace the entire drive shaft; it's way easier. As for diagnosing the trouble codes, use a 12 volt LED test light (a test light with an incandescent bulb should work too but not sure if the "load" will be too high), put one side to ground and probe the terminals in the diagnostic (black) plug near the driver's side shock tower. Use the link below to get the codes, the associated faults and the diagnostic plug configuration. The mx-6 and 626's use the same fault codes. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mx6-uk/maint/maint.htm#malfcode |
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| I have had this mazda for a few months now. I bought it was a blown motor and bought another mazda wrecked and swapped motors. Has had normal issues with a motor swap like always, and have been fixed. I now have a problem me and my boss can't figure out. We are both mechanics but this is our first mazda issue like this. It runs great until it gets to operating temp. and then its rough all the time. Chugs, rough idle, and just won't stop acting up. Only when its cold it runs good, but as soon as it even starts to heat up, its on from there. Any help? | |
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