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Mazda 626
Mazda 626

2018 messages, Last post on Oct 09, 2009 at 1:07 PM
You are in the Mazda 626 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: skibry1 (Mar 12, 2008 9:46 am) |
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| I may be one of only a few hundred left but I am wondering if there is a unique forum for 1988-1992 Mazda 626 owners? | |
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I've got a 99 - 626 - V6. Bought it new in 99. It's had all the maint. kept up ... maybe not by Mazda's schedule but I have a pretty good plan I use for all of our cars. I could have been a poster child for the 626 until about 90,000 miles then the problems started. It needed a new clutch. Ok, no big deal ... would have liked more than 90K ... but far from bad. It's now had 4 more clutches put in. You can count on it starting to shimmy when pulling away from a stop by the time it's got 8000 miles on a clutch. I'm not driving it any different. The dealer says they are using oem parts, turning the fly wheel, basically doing it right ... yet always a problem in 8K (+/-) miles. They've worked with me on it ... even paid for total replacement themselves a couple times ... that's all well and fine but it's a drag at this point. Anyone else have this type of issue? Second issue: At about 120,000 miles, right after replacing the front axles (for the first time) it developed a vibration mostly in second gear, under the pressure of acceleration. Again the dealership helped out by trying not one, but 3 more sets of axles .. all from different auto parts stores ... all had the vibration. What the heck happened I asked them ... I brought it in with one CV clicking but NO VIBRATION what so ever ... not I have new axles and a vibration. Honestly, seems to be getting worse the more we drive (130,000 on it now). Perhaps a trannie issue ... but this one came in out of the left field. Ready to rid myself of this headache ... really sad ... I praised that car up to 90K ... now I rarely have anything good to say about Mazda's. I've contacted many people on this, taken it to other repair shops ... everyone feels it, everyone is stumped. |
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| I just completed a complete rebuild on my CD4E tranny. When I started the car and ran it through the gears everything was great. After I killed the car and then started it again the HOLD light stared blinking and the car wouldn't move in reverse. It will in Drive. I got in it this morning and put it in reverse and it'll move, but the HOLD light starts blinking again. What's going on with it? I rebuilt it step by step by the book. I also added a shift kit to reduce the pressure build up in the valve body. Any suggestions would be appreciated. | |
| Hi I am currently reinstalling a reco engine into my mazda 626 98 and cannot work out which bolts go where on the engine mounts, some have torque rubbers on them, can anyone help? | |
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I have a great 1999 Mazda 626ES V6. Yesterday the guys servicing my car told me that I needed a new cap on my coolant system because it was "missing the lower part". I just figured that they were trying to sell me a part so I said I'd fix it later. I bought a a new cap at the auto store. The new cap has a lift up release tab and a lower pressure seal. I opened the hood and realized there were two (2) coolant caps. The problem is that they look like they have been switched, and the one on the engine will NOT come out. It will loosen, but not pull out. The spring loaded yellow lable cap is now on the engine and the red lable flat bottom cap is on the coolant reservoir. My diagram says that is reversed, so they must be switched. Is all that right? How do I get the stuck cap off? Does the loose cap make the coolant evaporate? Which cap really belongs where? Thanks for your help.
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Replying to: dunin3 (Jan 06, 2009 11:10 pm) |
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| Can anyone tell me what they did to fix the reason for the transmission slipping from second to third only everything else works perfect | |
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Just got over 102k on my 2000 ES. Took it in today for an oil change. Had a $75 Mazda gift card (a customer service gesture from Mazda when I complained about having to replace the PVC hose again on my MPV, which I dumped shortly thereafter), and I had to use it all at once. So I thought, heck, change the air filter too--can't hurt. Those plus some touchup paint cost me $0.29. The car is a little over 8 years old because it was originally put into service in December 2000. I've owned it for a little over 3 years, only put 18k on it in that time. Car still runs very well. Engine is gruff, but the car is tight, no rattles, still handles well, leather interior is holding up well, and no rust yet (pretty good for being through 9 Minnesota winters). I haven't had to do much to it. Added a tranny cooler right off the start ($200), but that solved a balky transmission. Also had to replace some rear bushings because of a clunky noise, and the driver's power window regulator. Put a couple of new tires on last year also--one was punctured and kept losing air. That's about it except normal maintenance. My son rear-ended someone nearly 3 years ago, over $4000 in damage including the airbags, but he only got a scratch on his arm--and a greater appreciation for maintaining safe distance behind other cars based on conditions. I am hoping the car holds up without major work needed for a couple more years, until my son finishes school. So far, so good. |
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Has anyone ever had the front bearings replaced on a 94 626 with a standard transmission? I think that I can do the job myself though I understand some special tools are required. I suspect the bearings because the car makes a noise like a giant impatiently drumming his fingers on a table whenever the steering is thrown over to the right or to the left. also, my engine check lite comes on from time to time; can anyone suggest where to buy the diagnostic tool necessary to check the sensors? thanks very much.
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