Last post on May 08, 2012 at 5:17 PM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#1995 of 2044 Would stay away
Apr 19, 2008 (7:37 pm)
A turbo wasn't standard for this model year, so this was an aftermarket addition. If it has a turbo it was raced. In addititon with a turbo you have to keep the oil changes at short intervals or risk blowing the turbo. A turbo has the potential to cost over several hundred dollars (if not a thousand) to be replaced.
Do your self a favor and stay away from any car with a turbo if you are on a budget.
#1996 of 2044 Oil Pan Replacement
Apr 21, 2008 (8:17 am)
What is involved in replacing a holed oil pan on a '98 Mazda 626, 4 cyl, manual trans? Does the pan drop straight down? Are there any interferences? Is there any special type of gasket material needed or will stock tubed silicone gasket material work? Thanks!
#1997 of 2044 Re: Would stay away [chuck1]
Apr 21, 2008 (11:27 am)
I believe there was an '89 626 Turbo.
Horsepower (SAE net): 145 4300 rpm
Torque (lb-ft): 190 3500 rpm
Many people feel that the power was understated to meet regulations in various countries. Regardless, 190 lb ft of torque in a 2700 lb car makes for $1,600 well spent.
#1998 of 2044 Re: Would stay away [maltb]
Apr 21, 2008 (4:15 pm)
Thanks for the correction. I still believe someone on a budget should steer clear of a turbo.
If has a turbo...there is an increased possibility that the car was driven hard and should not be purchased as a used car by someone on a budget.
#1999 of 2044 Re: Our DoubleOught Freeport w/ leftleg flexor [skibry1]
May 04, 2008 (6:04 pm)
I am 4k miles away from the 200k mark on mine.
#2000 of 2044 1988-1992 626 forums ?
Jun 20, 2008 (10:56 pm)
I may be one of only a few hundred left but I am wondering if there is a unique forum for 1988-1992 Mazda 626 owners?
#2001 of 2044 a couple issues
Oct 29, 2008 (10:06 pm)
I've got a 99 - 626 - V6. Bought it new in 99. It's had all the maint. kept up ... maybe not by Mazda's schedule but I have a pretty good plan I use for all of our cars. I could have been a poster child for the 626 until about 90,000 miles then the problems started. It needed a new clutch. Ok, no big deal ... would have liked more than 90K ... but far from bad. It's now had 4 more clutches put in. You can count on it starting to shimmy when pulling away from a stop by the time it's got 8000 miles on a clutch. I'm not driving it any different. The dealer says they are using oem parts, turning the fly wheel, basically doing it right ... yet always a problem in 8K (+/-) miles. They've worked with me on it ... even paid for total replacement themselves a couple times ... that's all well and fine but it's a drag at this point. Anyone else have this type of issue?
Second issue: At about 120,000 miles, right after replacing the front axles (for the first time) it developed a vibration mostly in second gear, under the pressure of acceleration. Again the dealership helped out by trying not one, but 3 more sets of axles .. all from different auto parts stores ... all had the vibration. What the heck happened I asked them ... I brought it in with one CV clicking but NO VIBRATION what so ever ... not I have new axles and a vibration. Honestly, seems to be getting worse the more we drive (130,000 on it now). Perhaps a trannie issue ... but this one came in out of the left field. Ready to rid myself of this headache ... really sad ... I praised that car up to 90K ... now I rarely have anything good to say about Mazda's. I've contacted many people on this, taken it to other repair shops ... everyone feels it, everyone is stumped.
#2002 of 2044 94 Mazda 626- Tranny rebuild
Nov 10, 2008 (8:07 am)
I just completed a complete rebuild on my CD4E tranny. When I started the car and ran it through the gears everything was great. After I killed the car and then started it again the HOLD light stared blinking and the car wouldn't move in reverse. It will in Drive. I got in it this morning and put it in reverse and it'll move, but the HOLD light starts blinking again. What's going on with it? I rebuilt it step by step by the book. I also added a shift kit to reduce the pressure build up in the valve body. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Nov 22, 2008 (2:12 am)
Hi I am currently reinstalling a reco engine into my mazda 626 98 and cannot work out which bolts go where on the engine mounts, some have torque rubbers on them, can anyone help?
#2004 of 2044 1999 626 coolant cap problem
Jan 07, 2009 (12:10 am)
I have a great 1999 Mazda 626ES V6. Yesterday the guys servicing my car told me that I needed a new cap on my coolant system because it was "missing the lower part". I just figured that they were trying to sell me a part so I said I'd fix it later. I bought a a new cap at the auto store. The new cap has a lift up release tab and a lower pressure seal. I opened the hood and realized there were two (2) coolant caps.
The problem is that they look like they have been switched, and the one on the engine will NOT come out. It will loosen, but not pull out. The spring loaded yellow lable cap is now on the engine and the red lable flat bottom cap is on the coolant reservoir. My diagram says that is reversed, so they must be switched.
Is all that right? How do I get the stuck cap off? Does the loose cap make the coolant evaporate? Which cap really belongs where? Thanks for your help.