Last post on May 08, 2012 at 4:17 PM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#1918 of 2044 Re: New Mazda 626 owner [p100]
Jan 18, 2006 (11:17 pm)
I feel fine about my Mazda. I am just trying to get the facts here. I don't go by anecdotal evidence about a car because it does not give the complete picture. Here is an example: suppose that there were 1 million '98-'02 626s, and Contiques, made with the Ford auto tranny. (That would be only 90,000 per model year that these vehicles were sold, which seems conservative.) Suppose 1% of the trannies failed prematurely--which means 99% did not fail. That is 10,000 failures. That's a lot of unhappy people to make posts on discussion boards and web sites. People who have a car with a major failure like that are apt to complain about it. (Not too many people take the time to post, "No problems with my car's auto tranny!") But overall, the odds of the tranny not failing would be excellent. Even if you bump the number up to 50,000, or even 100,000 failures, the odds are still heavily in favor of non-failure.
So if you can find this Mazda tech and ask him how many failed auto trannies he has seen on 2000 MY 4-cylinder 626s with less than 80,000 miles, that would be useful information to me. Otherwise it's just anecdotal.
#1919 of 2044 Re: New Mazda 626 owner [backy]
Jan 19, 2006 (9:55 pm)
Let's wait and see just how anectodal it will be for you paying $ 3000 for a new transmission!
#1920 of 2044 Re: New Mazda 626 owner [p100]
Jan 19, 2006 (10:19 pm)
Why would I want to buy a new transmission for a five year old car with 84,000 miles on the clock? At worst, I'd pick up a used one at a junk yard.
I hope your 626 gives you lots of miles of good service.
#1921 of 2044 Re: New Mazda 626 owner [backy]
Jan 24, 2006 (7:13 am)
$ 3000 will not buy a new transmission. It costs that much to get a rebuilt one or have one rebuilt. As far as buying a used one from a junk yard, it may last only a few months, and even if they give you a year warranty on it, it is typically on parts only, i.e, they do not pay for labor to install it or remove it from vehicle (and that can be pricey).
BTW, my Mazda has a 5 speed manual transmsission, doing very well at 135K miles. I am not worried about it failing.
#1922 of 2044 Re: 99 626 Rumbling noise when steering to left [njtrini]
Jan 24, 2006 (6:05 pm)
try replacing the motor motor mount in front of the timing cover. If it has sag in it, the front of the motor drops, putting lots of things out of it's proper alignment. my 98 626 had me thinking the power steering was going bad, but replacing the mount cured all the noises and rough feeling in the steering. Good luck!
#1923 of 2044 axle for 1980 mazda 626
Feb 14, 2006 (5:57 pm)
Hi there. i was wondering if anyone could tell which mazda axle would fit into my 1980 mazda 626? I am hoping for a direct fit without any mods. Does the 1979 RX7 fit directly? Thanks for the help guys.
#1924 of 2044 Mazda 626 V6 Rough Idle & Acceleration Hesitation
Mar 28, 2006 (8:07 am)
This posting reports back on a successful solution. The 1993 Mazda 626 with V6 & 110,000 kilometers would hesitate when trying to accelerate at highway speeds, and idle rough, only when engine was warm. It was known that oil was in the speark-plug wells, both front and rear rockers. There were no Codes to assist diagnosis. Problem solved when both gaskets replaced which necessitates the inlet manifold gasket replacement also, plus changing out all six HT leads. Dated March 2006. Noted that a slight hesitation occurred just before the 5 year Warranty expired, and HT leads replacement was successful back then too. Replacing the rear rocker cover gasket is time-consuming. My repair bills were $90 CAN for diagnosis, and $782 CAN to implement the solution. Hopefully this repair will last for the next 5 years.
#1925 of 2044 Re: Mazda 626 V6 Rough Idle & Acceleration Hesitation [dolby]
Mar 28, 2006 (11:40 am)
I replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 99 626 V6 when I changed the timing belt at 105K miles. I did this work myself, and yes, it is time consuming becuase you ened to remove the intake manifold to get to the rear valve cover. And to remove the intake manifold, you need to unplug practically the entire engine electrical harness, which is attached to the manifold.
Anyway, even the gaskets were expensive: $ 30/piece for the valve cover gaskets, $ 80 for the valve cover bolt sealing washers, and $ 30 for the two intake manifold gaskets. Note that my valve covers were not leaking when I replaced the gaskets, but I figured that they might after 105k miles. If I keep the car I hope not to touch the valve cover gaskets or the timing belt until 210k miles (140K miles or 210,000 km on it now). I change the spark plugs and plug leads every 60k miles. I always use the OEM plugs and leads. Change oil and filter religiously every 3k miles, use Castrol GTX 10W30 and Mazda OEM filters. Cheap insurance, and so far the engine is running like a champ. In fact, it feels stronger than it did when it was new.
Don't forget to clean out the EGR passages just behind the throttle body in the intake manifold. These passages clog with carbon on these cars after about 100k miles and cause improper EGR circuit operation.(you get a trouble code). Fortunately, the solution is simple cleaning, and usually no need to replace the EGR vavle which is very expensive ($ 360 for the part alone, and a nightmare to get to on the V6 engine).