Last post on May 08, 2012 at 4:17 PM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#1880 of 2044 Re: EGR valve [windowphobe6]
Oct 02, 2005 (6:10 pm)
Oh great Mazda owner.....do you have any ideas as to why our 2000 626 is demonstrating erratic starting capability? Done of the three repair shops have been able to diagnose and fix this problem. They can only recommend a new transmission (we just picked it up last Friday...paid $3400...car ran for a day,,then started its routine of intermittent starting..and not starting).
The car starts for the mechanics....
Any insight would be appreciated.
#1881 of 2044 Re: $3400 and it still won't start!! [madmom2]
Oct 05, 2005 (4:36 pm)
This does not make sense. Even if there was no transmission in a car, the car should start. There is a transmission shifter interlock which prevents starting when lever is not in park or neutral (I assume the car has an auto transmission). Your problem could be nothing more than this interlock.
If you had a really bad transmission, typical symptoms would be slipping, hard shifting, or not shifting into higher gear, abrupt downshifting with a loud clunk, etc. or the car would start, and simply not move when put in drive or reverse.
Surely the people who replaced the trahnsmission gave you some warranty? Hire a lawyer and go after them if they refuse to fix the car.
#1882 of 2044 Re: P100: [aggie85]
Oct 06, 2005 (11:19 am)
Try this. I have done this to my car and shifting has removed remarkably.
The shifting rod end, which enters the transmission, has a rubber boot on it. Pull the boot back, clean the polished portion of the rod, and lubricate well with wheel bearing grease. Push the boot back on, making sure it latches on correctly. That's it!
Note: You need to jack up the car to access these components.
I carefully inspected my shifter linkage and could not find anything else wrong.
#1883 of 2044 1993 626 Transmission
Oct 08, 2005 (6:43 pm)
This question might seem almost off-topic, but I hope it's not.
My father offered me his old car, 1993 Mazda 626 with 110,000 miles.
First thing I did was have the timing belt checked....and I was told that
I would need to change the belt, because the main seal is leaking on it.....
and that I would need to change the main seal.
The car's not worth the $700.
I was thinking of converting this car to an electric car.
It just passed NYS inspection.
I saw an article on successful conversion of a 1985 Mazda 626.
The question for the forum is this:
The "donor" car has an Automatic Transmission. I need a stick.
I only need second gear and maybe reverse, no clutch pedal needed.
My regular mechanic told me I would need to replace all the linkages,
including the axles, because they are different in a stick.
My project was complicated enough.
Also, the project costs enough already. The batteries & motor are $1000 each.
I thought I would check here in case someone has a secret insight.
I have a friend who is a fly-by-night mechanic...didn't get to talk to him yet.
SR in North Jersey
PS transmission issue aside, do you think I would be able
to find someone willing to take the engine, exhaust system, radiator, etc.
for free? (i.e., they get the parts I don't need
Or are the parts simply not worth the effort?
Or is it worth it to pay a mechanic I trust? (Ch-Ching, Ch-ching
Anyone want to trade an automatic for a stick ?
#1884 of 2044 Re: $3400 and it still won't start!! [madmom2]
Oct 14, 2005 (8:10 am)
Dear Mad Mom,
We had a similar problem with our Nissan SUV (I know different car). But, it too would cut out intermittently , stranding us places. And like you the mechanics we took it to could not get it to "not" start and so couldn't ever diagnose the problem. Yes they suggested many things and replaced many things and nothing helped. Finally we discovered that it was the "starter". Also might be your ignition switch (I think that's what it's called - it's where you put the key in to start the car).
The down side is that we now have two keys for our car (one for ignition and the other for doors, etc.). The up side is that it's fairly inexpensive and our car ran great after we had both replaced!
Hope this helps.
P.S. Make those morons that misdiagnosed your car pay for all of this!!! Our mechanic did!
#1885 of 2044 Old radiator fluid
Oct 14, 2005 (8:12 am)
Does anyone know which hose I need to remove to drain and flush my radiator? 99' 626.
#1886 of 2044 Re: Old radiator fluid [madcrasher]
Oct 17, 2005 (9:17 am)
There should be a valve or plug at the bottom of the radiator you open to drain it.
If not, or you can't find it, you have to remove the lower hose (because removing the upper hose will only allow the radiator to drain until it gets below that hose's level). Just pull the lower hose off the radiator side and leave it attached to the engine.
#1887 of 2044 Transmission not engaging.
Oct 19, 2005 (9:03 am)
I have a 1999 Mazda 626 LX automatic trans with 97,000 miles. I've changed the transmission fluid about 9,000 miles ago. After starting the engine I can move the gear shifter but the trans does not engage. Since the shifter seemed rather loose while going through the gears, I removed the housing surrounding it to check the cable. I noticed that both cables were connected and moved as I shifted. I'm unsure how to identify the same cable under the hood as I think this may be my problem. Any suggestions, am I on the right track?
#1888 of 2044 Re: $3400 and it still won't start!! [madmom2]
Oct 20, 2005 (7:13 am)
My girlfriend is having the same problem with her 2000 626. It's like, everytime she drives home from work and then turns it off and tries to turn it back on again, it won't start. Then in about 15 to 20 minutes when the engine cools down a little, it starts.
Please let me know if you find an answer to this problem. I may try to replace the starter and the ignition like the other post says if nothing else.
#1889 of 2044 Re: Old radiator fluid [qbrozen]
Oct 20, 2005 (11:11 am)
Thanks for the reply!
Anyone know about cleaning fuel injectors??? 99' 626