Last post on May 08, 2012 at 4:17 PM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#1795 of 2044 Re: Farewell to our 2000 Mazda 626 LX V6 [cherostar2]
Nov 29, 2004 (11:51 am)
Cory Fairbanks Mazda? I almost bought a car from them, Almost, because they charge $ 650 dealer fee (preprinted on their sales form and non-negotiable) and that is ridiculous (even if they sell you a car at invoice).
BTW Mazda cars are not very fuel efficient. My 92 Protege LX with 1.8 liter DOHC 4 cylinder and 5 speed manual would only deliver 26 MPG on mid grade fuel in combined driving with A/C on. The 99 626 ES V6 with a 2.5 liter DOHC V6 and 5 speed manual is worse - I get only 23-24 MPG on premium fuel (combined MPG with A/C on). Both cars are geared really low and they both tach about 4000 RPM at 80 MPH in 5th gear. Redline is 7000 RPM in both. Low gearing is what kills the fuel economy. My 98 Nissan Maxima with 3.0 liter DOHC V6 and 5 speed manual gets 27-28 MPG in combined driving with A/C on on premium fuel. At 80 MPH the RPMs are 3200 in 5 th gear. And performance is much better than that of a 626 Mazda V6.
Nov 29, 2004 (9:03 pm)
I hope the dealer doesn't charge and arm and a leg!
#1797 of 2044 Re: Thanks P100 [oak_parkstock]
Nov 30, 2004 (10:37 am)
Except for the timing belt, you could do most of this work yourself. Instead of injector cleaning you could buy a couple of Bottles of Techron cleaner and pour it into your gas tank. Also, they recommend replacing the brake fluid every year, or at least every couple of years.
#1798 of 2044 Re: Thanks P100 [oak_parkstock]
Dec 01, 2004 (10:16 am)
is your car V6?
#1799 of 2044 Re: Thanks P100 [zoomzoom626]
Dec 01, 2004 (6:56 pm)
mine is the 4 cyclinder. I wish I had the V6.
#1800 of 2044 Re: 96 626 to Wolfie3 or anyone [macker1]
Dec 05, 2004 (4:02 pm)
did you ever gat an answer to your question? I have the same problem and traced it to the EGR Control sensor that is out of spec. I haven't replaced it yet because it is a $300 plus part from Mazda. I was hoping I could reprogram the car's computer to overcome the problem but haven't found anyting on the usbject yet that will enable me to do that. The sensor is mounted on top of the engine over the air filter to the right. It is only about 2 " by 1.5" by .5" and has one electrical connector and a vacuum tube. It takes about 5 minutes to remove.
#1801 of 2044 99 626 Rumbling noise when steering to left
Dec 16, 2004 (12:42 am)
99 626 LX 4cyl AT 60,000miles
sound coming from right side of car, like if tire rubbing against a mudflap. Problem is i don't have a mudflap. Any answers/fixes?
#1802 of 2044 re: rumbling noise
Dec 16, 2004 (8:03 am)
Pretty good chance one of your wheel bearings is going bad. They make more noise when you put stress on them, like going through a turn that leans the weight of the car on the bad side. It will also get louder the faster you go. Have the bearings inspected on the right side of the car, but chances are its probably the front wheel since they are under the most stress.
#1803 of 2044 re: rumbling noise [lngtonge18]
Dec 16, 2004 (4:00 pm)
thanks, i figured, wheel bearings, cv joint or axle. have 90 day bumper to bumper warranty, just wanted to narrow it down to save on making trips back to dealer.
#1804 of 2044 timing belt replacement on a V6
Dec 17, 2004 (9:09 am)
I finally replaced the timing belt for the first time at 101k miles. Now in retrospect, doing this myself was not worth it. Working on this V6 engine is a nightmare. Absolutely no room to get to anything. Interestingly enough, the belt was in good shape after 101K miles with no visible signs of wear or deterioration. Two of the three belt tensioner pulley bearings were rattling though, and needed replacing. All oil seals were still dry. The water pump was dry and in good shape (no coolant seeping through the weep hole and the shaft rotating smoothly).
I replaced the belt, all three idler pulleys, the tensioner, the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals,
the waterpump, and the valve cover gaskets.
The cost of Mazda parts is outrageous. Each idler pulley for the belt is $ 160 from Mazda, the tensioner is $ 190, the belt about $ 90. The valve cover gaskets are $ 30 a piece, plus you need 18 bolt sealing washers at $ 6 a piece. Even though I get parts at a substantial discount from the local Mazda dealership, I found a timing belt kit at Autozone for about $ 100, which contains the belt and all three idler pulleys. Mazda sells these parts idividually for a total of about $570! I still had to buy the tensioner from Mazda because apparently nobody else sells it.
Two of the three idler pulley bearings were really shot after 101 K miles, so they needed replacing. Valve cover gaskets were seeping oil a little, so I replaced them. In order to get to the rear head valve cover, you need to remove the intake manifold. This means replacing another two gaskets, unbolting the fuel lines, vacuum lines and harness connectors. The intake manifold and the injector fuel rail are removed as a unit.
Some tips on replacing the belt:
Use an impact wrench to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt, then a puller to remove the pulley. Do not use a gear type puller on this one because you can damage the crankshaft sensor teeth on the back of the pulley.
You need to remove the oil dipstick tube to be able to remove the crankshaft position sensor. It is a good idea to replace the dipstick tube sealing O-ring ($ 3.50 from Mazda).
You need to remove the front engine mount to remove and install the timing belt. You need to support the engine by placing a piece of 2X4 on a jack saddle and jacking under the flat portion of the oil pan. One of the engine mount bolts goes through the waterpump housing.
To remove one of the timing covers, you must first remove the power steering pump pulley.
I you reuse the timing belt tensioner, you must compress the piston in in a vise or with a hydraulic press and insert a thin hardwire pin to hold the piston compressed (You pull out the pin to release the piston after the new belt is on).
There is no room to use an impact wrench on one of the camshaft sprocket bolts, so to break the bolt loose I held the cam in place by slipping an adjustable wrench over the hex portion of the cam (with valve cover removed of course). You hold the cams the same way to torque the camshaft sprocket bolts to about 100 ft-lbs.
When replacing cam sprocket and crank seals, take care not to damage the rotating surfaces or the aluminum seal housing. The best way to do this is to drill a small hole in the middle of the seal body, screw in a small sheet metal screw and use a small sliding hammer to pull the seal out.
When replacing the intake manifold gaskets, make sure the convex side of the gasket is facing toward the manifold.
Replace the copper sealing wahers on the fuel rail banjo fitting when reinstalling the intake manifold. I could not find these washers anywhere except at Mazda dealer and they had to order them.
Use a torque extension with an impact wrench to torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to spec (in this case 120 ft-lbs). (Note: NAPA sells torque extensions individually and you can also buy a set. They work only with an impact wrench).
I also found that both engine drive belt (alternator, water pump, A/C compressor, P/S belts) tensioner pulley bearings were marginal and needed replacing. Of course, nobody except Mazda sells these pulleys. Mazda offers replacement bearings for the pulleys which will do the trick. They are available for about $ 18 a piece, but must be pressed in with a hydraulic press.
I have changed a number of timing chains and timing belts before, but this one was the most difficult by far. If you decide to do this yourself, have fun.