Last post on May 08, 2012 at 5:17 PM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#1466 of 2044 Help ... My Mazda Cd player keeps rejecting 90 % of my CD's!
Sep 03, 2003 (12:01 pm)
I have a 1998 Mazda 626 and the Cd player has always been very finnicky about which CD's it feels like playing..... It almost never plays burned CD's ( IS ANYONE HAVING ANY LUCK PLAYING BURNED CD's in their factory unit?)
But know it won't even play commercial CD's either?
I am at my wits end.. Is there any cheap cleaning kit I can get to fix it?
Any suggestions would be Awesome!
#1467 of 2044 Question? How many of you play Burned Cd's in your Factory CD player?
Sep 03, 2003 (12:02 pm)
I was just wondering if this was all Mazda units or just mine that refuses to play and PC copied CD's?
Sep 03, 2003 (1:08 pm)
My friend had no problems playing burned cd's on his 00 Protege factory CD system.
Sep 04, 2003 (12:02 pm)
most of my cd's are burned and my 2000 626 plays every single one of them without any problems.
Sep 05, 2003 (2:24 pm)
Same here, my '00 626 plays anything I put in it. Sometimes if I burn on poor quality media it takes a few seconds to hunt around and find the tracks when changing songs, but other than that it works flawlessly.
I suppose it's possible that older units don't play nicely with some or all CD-R and/or CD-RW discs (this used to be true for some CD-ROM drives before CD-R drives were popular), but if you can't consistently play high quality commercially produced discs I would say you definitely have a problem of some sort.
Cleaning the laser lens is probably the best first step. One can purchase special CD's which supposedly accomplish this, but I've not tried any myself so I don't know how effective they are.
Sep 06, 2003 (10:16 am)
The only problem I've had is when I've been goofy enough to slap a label on the CD-R; one got stuck in the player once. I was able to extract it, but it was an annoyance.
Otherwise, the player in my '00 626 isn't finicky; once in a blue moon something will skip, but I've always been able to trace it back to some sort of crud on the disc itself - unless I'm doing something insane like going over a wornout railroad crossing at 92 mph.
#1472 of 2044 Drive belts on '99 626 V6
Sep 27, 2003 (3:35 pm)
I just replaced both of the drive belts in my 99 626 V6. The car has 71k miles now and the original belts had numerous transverse cracks on the belt ribs. The car uses two drive belts and they are both flat ribbed belts. To replace the belts you must jack up the right front wheel, remove the wheel, the bottom engine splash shield and then loosen the center nut on the tensioner pulleys. For the outer belt this is possible from above, but not for the inner belt (power steering and water pump). This is the first car I have ever owned that required front wheel removal to replace engine drive belts. And to replace the inner belt you must completely remove the lower tensioner pulley, because the belt will not slip out past this pulley. The cost of two replacement belts with some discount from Mazda was about $ 26. I avoid aftermarket belts on Mazdas because I had very bad experience with them on Mazda Protege.
Even though access to the belts is difficult, the tensioner pulley system is great. No need for pry bars on this one. It took about an hour to do this job.
#1473 of 2044 Re: drive belts
Sep 29, 2003 (9:37 am)
Wow, you used the same belts for 71K miles!?! That's impressive, I usually notice some cracking after only 2 years on my cars (I'm nearly dead on average at about 12K per year). I'm sure they'd last a lot longer than that, but I'm too much of a perfectionist to leave them on once they start showing cracks. Guess those OEM belts were good quality, eh?
I've already started thinking about how I would change the belt in my '00 2.5, and it looks like the plastic shield on the bottom of the wheel well definitely has to come off as you say. Seems pretty simple to remove, though. Better than some cars which don't have a panel to remove and only a small space in which to put your hand and a wrench between the pulleys and the wheel well.
#1474 of 2044 drive belts
Sep 29, 2003 (12:03 pm)
The bottom splash shield has to come off and you either need a high lift or you remove the right wheel. I tried turning the wheel to the right as far as it would go, but that did not provide enough space. After you loosen the locking center nuts on the tensioner pulleys, you turn the tensioner screw with a 10 mm socket to loosen the belts. Unlike V belt tensioning pulleys, these tensioners push on the backside of the flat belt. Incidentally, the belts from Mazda are US made. The problem I ran into with some aftermarket foreign-made belts was that they kept stretching and required frequent retightening. And this is not a pleasant job on this car as you have to go through splash shield and wheel removal to do it.
#1475 of 2044 Extended warranty worth it?
Sep 30, 2003 (6:03 am)
I am considering buying a 1998 626 ES 5spd V6. The car has 55,000 miles on it and a current $100 deductable policy on it that would cover it until 103,000 or Oct 06, whichever comes first. They have an opportunity to cash in the remainder of it or pass the cost along to me in the price of the car. I'm not asking you to make my decision for me, but from those of you who own a vehicle approximately like this, what is your repair history and how much do you suppose adding the warranty to the price of the vehicle is worth. He could get as much as $1150 back on the policy so depending on how much I am willing to add to the price of the vehicle, he may just cash that in to give me a lower price. I would appreciate any info you current owners may have for me. Thanks in advance.