Last post on May 08, 2012 at 4:17 PM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#1407 of 2044 Mazda 6
May 08, 2003 (5:13 pm)
Apparently Mazda learned their lesson here because the 626 replacement ( Mazda 6) has ABS and traction control as standard equipment and they finally got away from that pesky timing belt and went with the timing chain (at least that is what I heard). And they greatly improved the suspension and probably used better components.
BTW, a fully loaded 2002 626 ES V6 MSRP was just about the same as that of 2003 Honda Accord EX V6 - about $ 26K. This comparison will not be applicable when you compare the resale value - Mazda will bring about $ 4 K less after three years. I do not know about the resale value of Mazda 6, but a fully loaded 2003 V6 model does retail for around $ 26K also. And you do not get a 240 HP engine with it.
May 08, 2003 (6:38 pm)
Like in the Accord, for instance?
#1409 of 2044 timing belt
May 08, 2003 (7:14 pm)
Yes, Accord still uses a timing belt for some reason, but at least the replacement interval is 105K miles, not 60k.
May 09, 2003 (3:45 am)
MSRPs may have been close, but actual street prices were quite a different story. If you caught it at the right time, the 626 could be had for substantial discounts, many times below invoice. Definitely can't say the same for the Accord, especially the V6. So, in reality, you're probably looking at more like a couple thousand better resale with the Honda.
May 09, 2003 (8:11 am)
I do not know about the resale value of Mazda 6, but a fully loaded 2003 V6 model does retail for around $ 26K also. And you do not get a 240 HP engine with it.
Nope, but you get 220hp in a chassis that is much more fun to drive. Every vehicle will have its trade-off. Personally, I like 160 ponies in the most balanced FWD car I've ever driven.
May 09, 2003 (8:37 am)
I'm not going to swap my timing belts at 60K. My manual says 105K, so I'll probably replace them before 100K, but certainly not at 60K. From what I can gather the 2.5 is a non-interference engine, so I won't be risking engine damage, just failure. Not sure I'll have the car that long anyway, as I'm only putting about 10-12K a year on it at this point.
I'd also like to add that aside from the significant maintenance cost of replacing them (if you don't do it yourself), timing chains actually have some advantages over chains. They're cheaper, quieter, don't stretch, and don't require any lubrication.
#1413 of 2044 timing belts
May 09, 2003 (9:48 am)
You mean timing BELTS actually have some advantages over chains.
They are cheaper to make, but not necessarily cheaper to buy for all makes and models. I bought a timing chain and sprocket set for a V8 American car for $ 26 vs $ 72 for a Mazda 626 V6 timing belt without cam sprockets. True, timing belts do not require lubrication, but if your cam sprocket seals or the front crankshaft seal start leaking, you can loose your belt prematurely if it gets soaked in hot oil.
One good thing about timing chains is that if they stretch too far, they usually jump a tooth or two on one of the sprockets, but they will rarely break or fly off. On the other hand, belts can break unexpectedly and cause thousands of dollars worth of damage to valves and pistons in interference engines (e.g. 95 Nissan Truck V6).
As far as quietness is concerned, I have dual timing chains on the 98 Maxima and overall this engine is much quieter than the 626 engine, which has a single timing belt.
May 09, 2003 (10:05 am)
wow, Mazda's MSRP for that belt is $60. Of course, if you compare it to your Maxima with its 3 chains (about $175 MSRP) it's a different story than a timing set for a small block Chevy that can be had for $26 at your local 7-11 in the mid-west.
May 09, 2003 (11:37 am)
geez, I hope parts for my future Malibu Maxx won't be found at the 7-11!!! Apu, give me a tranny and a squishy!
May 10, 2003 (4:45 pm)
Now that this profound exchange of opinions is over, can we talk about something useful? Other than 7-11 car parts stores? Something that other readers can benefit from? Incidentally, the $ 26 timing chain/gear set was for a '67 big block Ford 390. And the set was US made too!
Here is a good topic: how to keep the polished clear coated factory Mazda alloy wheels from pitting. Some suggestions:
1. When you have your wheels balanced, ask them to tape the centering cone or use a plastic washer of some type to prevent scratching the clearcoat from the edge of the center hole. some places may use a flange adaptor (a rare occurrence), which centers the wheel by the lug holes so there is not need to worry about damaging the clearcoat. If they damage the clearcoat, buy some clear spray paint and apply the paint with a brush around the edges of the hole. This will prevent moisture from getting under the clearcoat, which causes rapid formation of aluminum oxide under the clearcoat and ugly veins of corrosion under the clearcoat that quickly radiate outwards.
2. Always insist that they use coated wheel weights, such as polyester coated, on these wheels. It is important too that they use the correct weights. Some places use universal alloy wheel uncoated weights and these will damage your clearcoat and cause corrosion behind the wheel weight. I know, because the local Mazda dealer used these on my wheels once and they nicked the clearcoat in each case. When I asked why they do not use the proper weights, I was told that the tires should be balanced every 5K miles and therefore the weights do not stay on long enough to cause corrosion. What a lame excuse for being cheap. I do not know many people who rebalance their wheels every 5K miles, especially at $ 10 a wheel.
3. Keep your wheels clean and wax often. These wheels are extremely impractical as far as corrosion resistance goes. Silver painted rough cast wheels are the best and do not cause the headaches these polished clearcoated wheels do.
4. Insist that they torque your lug nuts to proper specifications after the wheels have been removed and reinstalled. Removing the lug nuts with an impact wrench is OK if you use a deep socket, but impact wrenches should not be used on locking lug nuts. If you use a shallow socket (as one character used on my old Mazda years ago) you will pock mark every aluminum skin coverd lug nut. These lug nuts cost $ 5 a piece to replace from the Mazda dealer. Periodic retorquing of your lug nuts is recommended on alloy wheels. I do it about every 5K miles. I use about 85-90 ft-lbs torque for these.