Last post on May 08, 2012 at 4:17 PM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#1285 of 2044 struts and more
Mar 08, 2003 (4:07 pm)
good decision never to own another Mazda. I hope everyone will vote with their pocketbooks, and send Ford a message by giving your business elsewhere. As for the struts, I had all 4 replaced in my 1996 626. Be prepared to spend a good chunk of money on the labor for the rear two. Apparently they are a bear to put in. I put in Gas Struts instead of Oil filled. I would recommend the Oil frankly. The gas ones were very bouncy for the first month. While they are fine now, I think the ride was better with the oil filled ones.
#1286 of 2044 struts and more
Mar 09, 2003 (7:01 am)
How many miles on your car? Was your car driven a lot on bumpy roads? It seems that just about everything that needs to be done to these cars is labor intensive. I wonder if I will need new struts before I hit 100K miles (I have 62K now). The roads I drive on are quite smooth with very few potholes or bumps.
I just found out that the 99 V6 needs valve adjustment every 60K miles. They use shims for this purpose so you need special tools and a selection of shims for the job. And if you do not have special feeler gauges you must remove the cams. And to remove the cams you must remove to intake manifold to get off the rear valve cover.
Mar 09, 2003 (10:51 am)
I got my gas filled struts around 70,000 miles. The front ones seemed a bit "weak" to me at the time, and the two rear ones were seeping a little oil, so I decided to remove them all. The roads I drive on are pretty average; a mixture of suburban and city. As for the valves, I have not had that done (86,000 miles) so far. At this point, I am going to donate the car if it even looks at me the wrong way.
#1288 of 2044 struts
Mar 09, 2003 (12:18 pm)
Thanks for the reply. I am fast approaching the point of no return with this vehicle as well - either I get rid of it now or drive it until it quits. Once you have about 100K miles on these, you might as well give them away. You are lucky if you get $ 3K for them with that mileage, regardless of condition or year, for that matter. The game dealers play nowadays is that they subtract about 15 cents per mile for mileage over 12K a year (as if it was a leased vehicle). So if you were trading in a three year old ES V6 with 100K miles, you might get $ 1000 for it.
Mar 09, 2003 (12:47 pm)
The hesitation sounds very much like what p100 is describing. Just a loss of some horsepower, and acceleration only with a lot of pressure on the pedal. It was getting severe at around 60k miles and we replaced the plugs and it seemed to go away. We haven't done the throtle body cleaning that so many people have discussed yet. Wanted to try DIY things first.
My keyless remote entry (both of them) broke after the warranty. They wanted about $150 to get a new one and to program it. Maybe I can SuperGlue a loop to it on the back.
#1290 of 2044 Weak remotes and other delights
Mar 09, 2003 (1:31 pm)
I've broken two for my 2000 LX. Price is $23 at the dealership - at least, the one nearest me. ('97 and before apparently cost about five times as much.)
The '98 and '99 have softer suspensions than previous models, and were slammed in the press for comparatively sloppier handling. The 2000, accordingly, received a substantial stiffening (along with a facelift I consider retrograde).
The maintenance schedule calls for an inspection of valve clearance at 60k. This does mean that the valve cover comes off; it does not necessarily mean that you're going to have to have a lot of work done. And, like anything else, it's a tradeoff; '97 and before used hydraulic lifters that could not be adjusted and occasionally went into serious ticking mode due to oil starvation, which is also not fun.
#1291 of 2044 Response to post 1290
Mar 09, 2003 (7:46 pm)
If you have a V6, there are two valve covers, four cams, two valve cover gaskets. The intake manifold sits on top of the rear valve cover and must be removed to get the rear valve cover off. And the intake manifold gasket must be replaced. The 4 cylinder engine is certainly more maintenance friendly. Do you need to remove the front engine mount on that one to get the timing belt on and off? Elimination of hydraulic valve adjusters took me by surprise - Mazda never advertised this. I had hydraulic valve lifters in my Protege before and very seldom I had any ticking noise coming from the lifters. I always used Mazda oil filters which supposedly have an anti-drain valve in them to keep oil from draining from the cylinder head when you shut off the engine.
#1292 of 2044 Flushing brake fluid on 626
Mar 10, 2003 (8:34 am)
Anyone done this? I would like to do it my self. Mine is 2000 626 LX-V6 with discs all around and no ABS. Also which brake fluid works best with these?
#1293 of 2044 Flushing brake fluid on 626
Mar 10, 2003 (8:51 am)
I have not done this on my 626 yet, but have done it on other vehicles before. You need to use fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. I do not think it matters much which brand, just make sure you buy fresh fluid in a sealed container. Never use brake fluid that has been sitting in an open container for some time because it is hydroscopic (will absorb moisture).
I prefer two man manual bleeding technique. I usually attach a piece of plastic tubing to a caliper bleeder valve and insert it into a bottle partially filled with brake fluid. Have someone in the car push down on the brake pedal and hold it while you open the bleed screw until the brake pedal sinks to the floor (tell them not to pump the pedal) and then close the bleed screw. I generally start with the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder. As you bleed, check the level in the master cylinder often and add fresh fluid as necessary. Repeat this process with the other calipers until you have purged the old fluid out and replaced it with fresh brake fluid. Brake fluid attacks car finish - make sure you wipe it off immediately if it gets on your car paint.
Mar 10, 2003 (9:21 am)
i took the car back to where it was fixed and i took the mechanic and the sales person for a ride.
they both heard the rattle in the back. the mechanic was puzzled since he replace the struts and checked the strut mounts, replaces the sway bar and checked the bushings and also checked the exhaust. the trunk was emptied and still the rattle persists. the manager is going to call a mazda rep t come look at the car if they can't find it they'll have to give me another car.
thanks again for your help.