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Mazda 626

2044 messages,  Last post on May 08, 2012 at 5:17 PM

You are in the Mazda 626 Forum.

What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Sedan

Messages Page 128 of 205

#1267 of 2044 more about 626 trasmission by zoomzoom626

Feb 21, 2003 (7:25 am)

Thanks for answering my first question. I had no idea that went away from Hydraulic lash adjusters.
 
So it is not bad idea to change transmission fluid. I assume there is a drain plug on the bottom but is there a filler whole on the top? How much fluid does it take? I was thinking to put is synthetic gear oil in it. Is that a good idea? Also my father has 1998 626 LX (I4) with automatic transmission and I was also thinking of changing his Automatic transmission fluid and putting synthetic ATF in? If synthetics work well in Mazda MT and AT which brand do you recommend?

#1268 of 2044 Synthetic tranny fluid by windowphobe6

Feb 21, 2003 (5:59 pm)

I have no experience with synthetic transmission fluid, either MT or AT. Julian Bradbury, the UK expert on such things, does recommend them for the MT (he's partial to Redline), but suggests that since the fluid for automatics is so readily contaminated, you should stick with the standard ATF and change it once a year. (I adhere to a 15k change schedule on my 2000 LX.)

#1269 of 2044 Good bye and thanks! by ian18

Feb 23, 2003 (2:38 pm)

I just want to let everyone know that after 105,000 miles I have sold my '93 ES 626 5 speed. It was in very good shape and I believe the new owner will do well with it. Over the past few years I have received some good advice from this board. Many thanks to all who have posted.
 
The Mazda's replacement is a 2003 VW Passat GLX. In the future you can find me on the Passat and Intrigue boards.

#1270 of 2044 '99 626 ES V6 service by p100

Mar 03, 2003 (9:07 pm)

In reference to post 1265, I own a '99 626 ES V6 with a manual transmission. My car has about 62K miles on it now and I have the same dilemma. I recently replaced coolant by draining the radiator (there is no engine block drain plug). The car came originally with platinum plugs and they are about $ 18 a piece!!!!!!! and are only available from Mazda dealers. The owner's manual specifies replacing these plugs at 60K. You can also use non-platinum plugs, but then the replacement interval is 30K. A asked Mazda sevice rep about replacing the water pump at this time (with timing belt change). They said that these pumps fail very infrequently and recommended against it. Anyway, the cost of the water pump is about $ 100. I am surprised to read that this car does not have hydraulic valve lash adjusters. This is news to me. Is this a fact? I will probably wait a while with the timing belt change because this is a non- interference engine. This service is terribly expensive from the dealer - I was quoted $ 520, most of it for labor. This included replacement of camshaft sprocket and crank seals. The timing belt itself is about $ 70 from Mazda. Mazda also recommends replacing all driving belts around 60K. I am going to change my manual transmission oil and already bought Redline MTU 75W90 synthetic gear oil which is supposed to be safe for the synchonizers (no corrosive suphuric additives). The transmission holds about 3.0 quarts.

#1271 of 2044 Dealer Service... by carguy58

Mar 04, 2003 (7:47 am)

out of warranty at any dealer of any car make will cost you an arm and a leg.

#1272 of 2044 spark plugs by zoomzoom626

Mar 04, 2003 (8:57 am)

I'm also looking to replace the plugs in mine(platinum as well) and do the 60K maintenance. Now new iridium plugs came out which are supposed to be better then platinum? Anyone has any experience with these?
 
BTW you can by platinum NGK(which are OEM I believe) at advance auto parts for $10.79 and I also found NGK Iridium for $7.12 at http://www.clubplug.net/retail_iridium_ngk.html

#1273 of 2044 rattle in the back by edpagan88

Mar 04, 2003 (8:58 am)

i have a 2000 lx v6 with auto trans. i recently had the car in the shop to have the rear struts replaced because of this rattle i would hear over bumps. the dealer replaced the struts but the rattle is still there. the car runs fine over bumps large and small but the noise is anoying. could it be the strut mounts? if so how can i check that myself without getting ripped off or wasting my time going back there..the car has 33k on it.the dealer put the struts in at no charge.and by the way i looked underneath the car and didn't see anything new in the strut area.
your advice is always welcome.

#1274 of 2044 edpagan by rotarykid

Mar 04, 2003 (6:22 pm)

Are you insinuating that the dealer did not replace the struts? I dont like the sound of that one bit. By the way, the struts are the long black things with the big black spring which are found behind each wheel........
anyway as far as your problem goes, heres what you do. Go to the dealer with the car and tell them that the rear sway bar bushings have too much play in them and they need to be replaced. If they have a problem with you telling them what it is thats making the noise, insist on having them put the car up in the air and then grab the sway bar firmly right beside the bushing and push it up and down and you will feel the play in it. If you like, you can remove the bushing covers yourself and add some electrical tape to the sway bar where it fits inside the bushing. This slight increase in diameter is enough to fix it. Let me know how it goes............

#1275 of 2044 99 626 V6 performance by p100

Mar 04, 2003 (8:01 pm)

I have a strange performance issue with my 99 V6. It has a manual transmission and what I am experiencing is variations in engine response in top gear to slight accelerator pressure. Sometimes the car responds extremely well even slightest pressure on the accelerator will increase the speed from say 70 to 80 MPH without effort. At other times when cruising around 70 MPH the car does not respond as well and seems reluctant to accelerate and requires heavier foot. It almost feels as if the engine was fighting the accelerator pedal by putting up resistance. Heavy pressure on the accelerator will overcome this but at a fuel economy price. I tried using injector cleaners in my gas tank and after each cleaning the car responded better for a short while. Turning A/C on and off does not make any difference. It almost feels as if the engine computer is deliberately leaning out the mixture at times. Any ideas? I am so annoyed by this that I am thinking about getting rid of this car. Mazda dealers are no help here because if they do not see an engine light on, then obviously nothing is wrong. I tried different brands of fuel and sometimes the car runs better and responds very well. It does not really run better on premium gas. And the overall fuel economy is lousy, no better than 23 MPG no matter what you do or what fuel you use.

Messages Page 128 of 205

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