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Sedans Buick LeSabre Buick LeSabre
1497 messages, Last post on Aug 13, 2009 at 5:54 PM
You are in the Buick LeSabre Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 22, 2009 10:47 am) I've noticed many messages from you with good technical information, so your advice is much appreciated. Let me put it differently now: if I take your list and make sure that everything you listed have been done (from the information I have, this car has been very well cared for) -- should I be afraid of 98K miles? Is it much worse than, say, 50K? From my experience with Bonneville, I want to think that 60K or 100K don't make much difference -- most bad things happened to me before 50K; and nasty annoyances like broken external door handles ($300), broken trunk spring ($200), water leak through the heater ($500), broken sun roof (left it with that), engine shutoff on the road, don't appear to be directly related to the mileage, but what do you think about this? Would you remove a car with this kind of mileage from your consideration, or it wouldn't bother you much? Thanks again.
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Replying to: malexbu (Jul 22, 2009 11:36 am) your consideration, or it wouldn't bother you much? Nope. A neighbor up the road has bought and sold used 3800s equipped vehicles with 200K + on them running well and promising for an economical car. He does low price range cars as a hobby buying and selling; his father has always been in the used car business. The only pattern problem on the car you mention is due to neglect, in my opinion, by not changing antifreeze every two years. If it still has DexCool in it and the reservoir tank looks clear without globs of goop from someone adding green stuff antifreeze, I'm happy. The transmission fluid I like to see changed often. You're hinting that car has had that done in some way. Your car is past the 2000 models that seemed to have failures in the clip in the regulator (track) for the power windows. The cable that lifts the windows pulls out of the plastic carrier. Replaceable if you can take off the door panel yourself and send the regulator to someone on Ebay or the internet for repair and quick return for around $50-$90. I'd feel better about the car you're looking at than a Honda with an automatic transmission or air conditioning problems. Things will go wrong with all cars is my motto. Regular oil, trans fluid, and coolant changes are what your leSabre needed. Sounds like it has gotten that. You're not going to find many cars delivering 31-33 mpg in summer on interstate with AC on at 65-70 mph with 3 adults and loads of baggage; it also can carry 6 easily. It gives 22-24 around home driving in suburban township type driving here. I couldn't justify trading off my 168K 98 leSabre for a higher gas mileage car til recently. Kept the leSabre but added a Cobalt for the high schooler to drive. |
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 22, 2009 2:35 pm) |
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 22, 2009 2:35 pm) vehicle and I backed off. Another one -- 2002 Custom, 83K miles: * Rear suspension redone a month ago. * The sunroof won't open -- needs a new solenoid. I don't care about opening a sunroof, but am afraid of water leaks if the roof is not properly closed. Any idea about how difficult it is to fix that? More important: a recently redone rear suspension -- is it a good or bad sign? Thanks!
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Replying to: malexbu (Jul 25, 2009 11:57 am) Depends on what they mean by redone. New shocks? All lesabre may have had air leveling struts on the rear. If they put on Monroe replacements it may ride a little harder in rear than before. If they put on GM shocks, it should be the same or similar. The rear suspension might be a link that rusted through. A few people have reported those. It's a link that holds the geometry solid. I don't think it's the toe-in adjusting link. If it's in a corrosive area with lots of salt that might have happened. Look under the rear for new parts to see what was replaced. If it was replaced it's good to go. >sunroof Sounds like a control solenoid somewhere that the switch operates. I'd have to look that up in my 2003 Helm manual. I'll post what I find. Sunroofs are like boats: problem pits--my personal opinion. The solenoid doesn't bother me. But lots of Bonneville owners have reported broken off drains for the sunroof--it has 4. So the water leaks inside the car. Typical is the front hose by driver's left foot which is supposed to drain below the car and breaks inside the car.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 25, 2009 2:18 pm) Couldn't agree more!... I swore off from buying a car with a sun roof after the one in my 1999 Bonneville stopped stopping in the "close" position.... > But lots of Bonneville owners have reported broken off drains for > the sunroof--it has 4. So the water leaks inside the car. The drain paths may be blamed unfairly: as I learned painfully with my car, the pre-2000 Bonnevilles have an insanely installed heater -- when the seal around it loosens, the water goes from the windshield and engine compartment right into the cabin, collecting under the carpet. It's very hard to find the leak -- I spent hours pouring my car from a garden hose, and hard to fix it. It's probably impossible to fix it reliably. > Typical is the front hose by driver's left foot which is supposed to > drain below the car and breaks inside the car. Precisely where the water was in my car 
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Having a problem with automatic air with digital readout system. The fan does not come on most of the time until 5 to 20 minutes later. Not sure if controller problem, fan motor failing, or connection/cable. When it does blow, it seems to sputter sometimes - when its set to hi speed, it sounds like it slows down for a second sometimes. Any ideas on usually why a very long delay with the fan coming on? If fan, how do I get to it or is it easy? If control module, how do I pull it out? Thank you for your help in advance.
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Replying to: mariannesam (Jul 30, 2009 4:28 pm) Try turning the key to ON. If the fan doesn't start like it should, tape the bottom of the HVAC box with the toe of your shoe. The blower motor is on the right side of the hump, but any vibration will cause it to make contact. The blower is held in by three screws. Pull the carpet back toward the seat; moving it allows more room to wiggle the blower and motor out. The hush panel under the passenger side dash comes off first with a few screws.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 30, 2009 6:52 pm) After I turned the key on and made sure the fan was set on high, no air was coming out and no sound of the blower. I tapped the blower area under the glove box near the fire wall and the fan came on! Removed the hush panel and blower module. Either the motor was worn or internal connections bad. External connectors looked good. Inside there was some dirt (I assume from the motor cooler/heater tube port even though I change/clean the cabin filter often - can see the filter with the blower out) and maybe the brushes were a little worn, so after about 80k miles, just replaced the blower module from Autozone (~$130) with lifetime warranty. A few screws like you said and it was pretty easy - did not even have to move the carpet out of the way. |
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