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Sedans Buick LeSabre Buick LeSabre
1497 messages, Last post on Aug 13, 2009 at 5:54 PM
You are in the Buick LeSabre Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: tkcolorado (May 30, 2009 12:06 pm) #2. The fuel gauge contacts that move when the float goes up and down probably are worn. There is a replacement repair for the mechanically inclined on the internet using some repair parts from a past gauge assembly for another car but related fuel sender. The parts wear. #3. I has low mileage for a fuel pump problem unless it was driven a lot with fuel level below a quarter tank so it didn't cool the pump. #4. Most likely it's a clogged EGR valve. It can be removed for cleaning fairly easily. #5. You can disconnect the EGR valve connector and drive it with that connected to see if it quits doing it. That is temporary only. #6. You can try tapping the EGR valve with a screwdriver handle to see if vibration helps the pintel seat closed when it should be such as at idle. You might be due for spark plugs (use AC plugs per the book, don't buy the alternates) and new wires (use OEM AC or Belden brands, e.g.). You might have a wire not up to par after 8 years. But I really feel you have an EGR that's got scudda crud in it. I would doubt you need a new one or you'd have a check engine light on.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (May 30, 2009 12:22 pm) I'm really confused because I have no CLUE what all these parts are and the respective costs associated with it. Should I have replaced everything? P.S. I do need to replace the guage issue at some point, so that information you posted is handy. |
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Love my well preserved '92 LeSabre however the horn has not worked since I bought it last December. All fuses are fine, and a friend with a meter revealed there is no current where the wires plug into the horn itself. Is there a relay somewhere in-between I could check?? Taking apart the steering wheel should be a last resort. Also, the horn buttons on the wheel are kinda' popped out (not flush with surface of wheel), though they feel like they would still work. I've heard it's not uncommon for Buick horn buttons to do that. Very uncomfortable driving without a horn in rush hour traffic. Doesn't anyone (besides me) actually turn their head to check the blind spot anymore?
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Replying to: dave1081 (Jun 08, 2009 6:03 am) So Horns is #2. The relays have a flat spring prong that you raise using a steak knife, and then the relay will slide out toward you. The prong snaps over a hook when you push the relay back in. The relays there are several of the same part number. So you can switch the AC compressor and horn relay to see if that makes yours work. Good luck. And let me know what you end up finding! |
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Hi I have a 98 Lesabre with 120k on it. Recently the check engine light came on and started flashing. I took it to advance auto where it was tested and it came back misfire on cylinder 4. I decided to get a new set of spark plugs and change them. I found out it had the original plugs in it. It runs alot better and the check engine light has went off, however, it still hesitates on acceleration and sometimes jerks around 55 mph. I don't think that the problem has been completley solved although it runs alot better. The wires look fine. Could it be the high voltage distributor caps? Any ideas on what I should check? Any info would be greatly appreciated. ~Greg
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Replying to: gds52383 (Jun 10, 2009 9:14 pm) But you must replace the wires also. They probably wore out before the plugs. Replace with AC or Belden OEM quality wires--NAPA has AAA discount if you choose Beldne, e.g. Most likely the wires' resistances are high because the carbon layer has deteriorated with age and use. Putting new plugs in helped but the system is still marginal. Running plugs and wires long also is said to deteriorate the coils. But change the wires first. The coils are best checked by comparing the resistances of the high voltage side where the wires plug in. To compare the primary side, you take each coil off, insert something to make contact internally to measure the resistance. Then clean and coat the prongs that the coil sits down onto. Coat with dielectric grease. BTW, put dielectric grease on the inside of the new wires when putting them onto the spark plugs; it makes them easier to remove. |
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Hi - I'm scratching my head on this one so any insight is appreciated! I have a 94 LeSabre with just 44k miles. The drivers side rear door will lock using both the power door locks and the remote keyless entry, however it won't UNLOCK this door using either of them. The other 3 doors work fine. The PDL motor obviously works since it is locking the door, but what can cause it not unlock it only? Thanks!!
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Replying to: cherrybomb (Jun 15, 2009 9:59 am)
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jun 15, 2009 1:17 pm) |
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I am thinking about purchasing a "backup car". A used LeSabre would be good, if it turned out to be a reasonably low-maintenance vehicle. I previously had its relative, 1999 Pontiac Bonneville, which I bought new and traded in, at the 67K miles, for a new Chevy Malibu in 2005 -- the change I've been extremely happy about. And I wouldn't buy another Bonneville, no, thank you. I've researched multiple user reviews for LeSabre, and have mixed feelings, but am thinking about exploring it further. I'd like to hear any feedback on this, but, specifically, I wonder what is the highest mileage on a used LeSabre, which makes sense to consider. E.g. I see a new listing for a 2002 LeSabre Limited with 97.5K miles -- how silly would it be to buy that car, with that mileage? What maintenance is expected to be performed at 100K? How much money I should expect to invest in the car over the next 50K miles? Thank you for any input.
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