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Sedans Buick LeSabre Buick LeSabre
1497 messages, Last post on Aug 13, 2009 at 5:54 PM
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My engine light on my 95 LeSabre is always on. The engine runs smoothly while idling. If however, while idling, I push the gas pedal past the half way point, it runs very rough as if it's not getting any gas: almost the same sound as if I were to push and let go the gas pedal very fast on a well running engine. Additionally, most of the time while going up hill the engine chokes and shakes while it crowls to a stop (engine is still trying to run). Sometimes it pick itself up if I take my foot off the gas pedal. I managed to get a code of P0321. I looked it up and found some text as follows: Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input: Circuit Range/Performance. Does anyone out there knows what needs to be replaced? Thanks Frank |
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Replying to: saclfa (Jun 12, 2008 8:09 am) Does anytthing else not work right like the power door locks or power windows--on a regular basis or occasionally? If that's the case and it matches with the AC not working right, you might have a corroded buss connection for the grounds for some things in the dash area. There is a ground connector with a metal bar in it that grounds several different things and it's under the door sill right where the driver's feet go in and out. You might try a control unit from a junkyard or check for price on rockauto.com or GMpartsdirect.com. |
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Replying to: saclfa (Jun 12, 2008 8:09 am) Does anytthing else not work right like the power door locks or power windows--on a regular basis or occasionally? If that's the case and it matches with the AC not working right, you might have a corroded buss connection for the grounds for some things in the dash area. There is a ground connector with a metal bar in it that grounds several different things and it's under the door sill right where the driver's feet go in and out. But it's symptoms of poor connections are thtat sometimes something works and other times it doesn't. Mine on a 93 was the AC lost all control and went to defroster with the compressor running and the power door locks wouldn't work. Then they would fix themselves after a while. You might try a control unit from a junkyard or check for price on rockauto.com or GMpartsdirect.com. |
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| Changed oil on 2000 LeSabre that has 38,000 miles on it. Removed filter first. Four quarts of oil drained through the post that the filter attaches to. About 1/2 quart was in the pan. After refilling and driving about 2 miles I removed the filter; about 4-5 ounces of oil came through, noticeably more than is expected when removing a filter. The oil pressure gauge says oil pressure is fine, about 65 pounds when driving. Anyone know the problem, the solution? Is the car driveable as it is? Thanks. | |
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Replying to: saclfa (Jun 12, 2008 8:09 am) |
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my hvac fan continues to run after ignition switch is turned off. I can only kill it if I oull the big ac fuse or the plug to the back of the fan its self. Is there another relay somewhere that could be stuck?
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Replying to: lesabre1 (Jul 11, 2008 5:05 am) Blower control module would be the first suspect. It's on top of the blower motor housing on the firewall. Follow the wires from the blower motor to the control module. It's a 4 inch by 1 inch piece which sticks its electronics inside the air path in front of the blower motor to keep cool. The relay housing above can be lifted up to gain access to the screws by removing 1 or two bolts holding it against the upper firewall. You should turn on the key, press the OFF switch on the automatic air system and let the unit cycle to off. Then turn key to OFF and disconnect battery to be safe working around these parts. A few people believe their Automatic Climate Control computer messed up after being left ON and having the battery disconnected. The blower control modules are available at Advance Auto, your recycler yard (may also have failed), and wherever you find at rockauto.com, gmpartsdirect.com, etc. There might be something else, but this is the most common.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 12, 2008 3:19 am)
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Replying to: lesabre1 (Jul 12, 2008 4:45 am) |
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Recently (April 08), the GAS CAP LOOSE indicator showed up on dash panel. I replaced the cap with a new gas cap but the light would not go off. Next day the SERVICE ENGINE SOON indicator came on and I took it to the local Firestone dealer. They asked if I ever ran the engine while I was putting gas in the tank - NO - and did I keep putting gas in after the nozzle clicked off - NO. They ran the usual tests and the only code in the system was for a loose gas cap. They replaced my new gas cap (from the dealer) with an after market one and reset the codes and charged me for a diagnostics test and a new gas cap. A couple of weeks and about 6 fillups later (I drive about 97 miles round trip to work each day) about half way to work one morning the GAS CAP LOOSE light came on again. When I got to get a cup of coffee, I checked the gas cap and it was on tight. When I started the car, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came on and I drove directly to Firestone. This time they ran some more tests, including a "smoke" test. There were no indications of any pressure leaks but the code indicated a problem with the vapor canister valve and emission control. A couple of hundred dollars later, they reset the codes (and replaced the aftermarket gas cap with a dealer gas cap). Needless to say, I've taken it back 3 more times for the same GAS CAP LOOSE and SERVICE ENGINE SOON problem. They have not been able to find anything else in the codes and after the last time they informed me that they would have to start charging me if I brought it back in again for the same problem. The manager say that they could not find anything wrong and since it was not hurting anything, I'd have to "live" with it unless I was willing to "pay" for a more detailed "in-depth" diagnostics and trouble-shooting repair. Can anyone help me? I'm don't have the money for a more detailed "in-depth" diagnostics and trouble-shooting repair. Vince
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