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Sedans Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm
1320 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 6:37 PM
You are in the Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: mdfloyd (Nov 26, 2005 9:00 pm) 
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Replying to: staci1 (Dec 07, 2005 6:10 pm)
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I had some repairs done to my 1998 Prizm LSi yesterday, and I told them that the panel under the shift lever -- the one that reads "PRND2L" -- doesn't light up any more. The repair guy said that after opening it up, he couldn't find place to PUT a light bulb. I'm sure I remember being able to see the shifter setting in the dark before. Am I wrong? Or will my repairman have to remove the entire shifter cover to replace the bulb? Shawn |
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Brief history: I was returning home from a short trip ~25 miles. I let off the accelerator to turn right into my subdivision and the engine died.  It restarted and ran rough until i parked it in my driveway 2 blocks from where it died. Since then it stalls at traffic stops and depending how it stalls: either restarts immediately if it just dies or takes a minute or two if it sputters, seems to diesel, run backward and back flow through intake. Sometimes rough on acceleration sometimes smooth. When rough sometimes gentle pumping would let it catch and become smooth. Parts replaced so far: O2 sensor - no change in symptoms Fuel Filter - no change in symptoms Fuel Pump and pressure regulator - better for awhile but symptoms returned a week later. Drove to Nascar race in Atlanta ~350 miles one way. It went smooth on the interstate and highways with no problems as long as I didn't have to stop for a traffic light or stop sign. Only died twice on the way and twice on the way back. Averaged 35 M.P.G. for the trip. Timing Belt and alternator belt not for symptoms but wanted it done anyway - ran great that evening even through mechanics test drive but when I went to test drive it the symptoms returned. Next morning it wouldn't start at all. When checked found plenty of spark but no pulse at fuel injectors.  ECU - (obtained at reasonable price from eBay with warranty) Finally got it to start but symptoms remain. Next morning no start again. Found code retrieval info and got code from ECU that read normal (steady flash). Throttle Position Sensor (changed but not adjusted to specs as we couldn't find pin outs to follow adjustment procedure)- Drove to parts store where it "acted up" on the way to and on the return trip. Checked ECU for code and retrieved code 31 . M.A.P. Sensor - Finally got it to start again but accelleration again produces different results. Sometimes it is smooth. Sometimes it chokes, dies, diesels and hard to restart. Sometimes dies right away on accelleration and easy to restart. Next morning no start again.  ECU returns no code . This is where I am at after 7 months of chasing my tail and my Mechanic is just pulling his hair out now. Any ideas out there????? This is my only car and now has me stranded until I get this solved. The no starting just started since the weather turned cold. I only paid $600 US for the car when I bought it in April, 2005, now I'm at ~$760 in parts and labor since July. I'm willing to put a little more change into it since the gas mileage is so good on it though. 
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My heater will not work. I've checked the fuses, wiring, etc. but cannot find the problem. I have 3 children riding in this car with me and it's about 12 degrees in the morning when we leave with no heat!! I am on a limited income so I cannot afford to take my car to a mechanic. Someone please help me!!! P.S. I bought this car in May for $600. I have spent already $1500 to fix all kinds of problems (replaced the entire brake system etc.) so I am now broke AND freezing!!!
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Replying to: bobbip (Dec 12, 2005 11:00 am) Few simple items to check: Coolant level & condition- Do you have enough? If you or the previous owner kept adding water to the radiator, it may not circulate well through the heater core when it is partially frozen. Temp gauge-is the engine really warming up? See if the temp gauge needle goes up to where it normally does in warmer months. If the thermostat is stuck open, your car may never reach the operating temp. Then the heater would not work. Bad for engine too. Symptoms: the car takes very long time to warm up. In stop and go traffic the temp gauge needle creeps up, but in constant highway speed it begins to cool all the way to where you started in the morning. If this is the case and if you can be EXTREMELY CAREFUL, you might try blocking 1/2 of the radiator with a piece of cardboard. This an emergency measure, and it will work on the highway, but could lead to severe overheating in stop and go traffic. I have used this method before but I kept very close eye on the temp gauge and replaced the thremostat as soon as possible. A couple of times I had to stop and pull the cardboard out to prevent overheating in stop and go traffic. Heater control knob-if it is broken and/or slipping, it may not be moving the actual temp control lever. There are space-heater like devices that you can plug into the cigrette lighter. You can get one at any auto parts store. At 600 watts it is not strong, but might serve as a hand warmer. This is obviously a temporary measure, because the alternator has to work hard to supply that kind of output. But if you are really frezing and can't fix the problem right away... Make sure you don't kill the battery with it. It is worse to get stuck with a dead battery when it's 12 degrees out. Good luck |
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Replying to: chedle (Dec 08, 2005 8:46 am) If you checked the battery, battery cables, and cable connections (both battery side and car side), the next stop is the starter itself. Starter solenoid can fail, starter itself can fail in such a way that it requires larger current to turn over the engine. |
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I have a 1996 Geo Prizm Lsi (manual) and recently I have been having issues with the heat. I lose heat when idling. I get no heat after warming the car up, but I do get heat when driving. The temperature gauge reads in the middle where it normally does, however I did notice once that when idling (and losing heat), it would rise briefly and then drop again (also sounds as if a fan came on to. Any ideas what the issue could be? Thanks
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Replying to: gregory3 (Jan 09, 2006 6:04 am) If the problem is not fan related check the standard items like coolant level and thrmostat operation. If the thermostat is partially stuck you might see overheating in warmer weather. It could also keep the coolant from flowing into the heater core at low water pump pressuer at low rpm. My prime suspect is the fuse for the fan. Good luck. M |
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My 1990 Geo Prizm makes an absurd noise every time I hit 35 mph. Now I can't even go beyond 45 mph. The car seems to have power whenever I hit the gas. I've changed oil and filter but that didn't help. This car was fine until I drove it to NYC for the holidays. I cannot stand the weird noise and I'm thinking of donating this car but I need it for a few more months. Will somebody please help me with this problem ?
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