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Sedans Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm
1322 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 2:12 PM
You are in the Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: vandrennan1 (Oct 31, 2005 9:19 pm) I would not assume that you need a new head gasket. Some cars have engine oil cooler inside the cooling system. One possible location for this device is near the intake manifold. This takes hot oil from the engine to the coolant (in separate a tube of course) for cooling of engine oil. There may be a heat exchanger (should look llike mini-radiator within the cooling system) bathed in coolant, and if there is a leak, oil will end up leaking into the radiator. I read somewhere that oil pressure in this oil cooler is typically higher than the coolant pressure, hence oil leaking into the coolant, not the other way around. M |
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Replying to: mt700a1 (Oct 24, 2005 10:24 am) But hey shocked the guys when I got the book out and replaced some of the parts myself lol |
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I've been dealing with the PO171 "Left Bank Lean" problem since May on my 2000 Prism (94K miles). I've had sealant added around the manifold, replaced the O2 sensors, replaced the gas cap, had the dealer clean the system (including the MAF allegedly), used premium gas with Lucas injector treatment, all to no avail--the check engine light will go off (or I'll turn it off via the fuse) then come back again (always 171, though I did get a PO300 "Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire" once--I appreciated the variety). It's an annoyance, really, since the only symptom other than the light is a hestitation sometimes when accelarating from a stop (I'm extra cautious about pulling into traffic now!). Out of solutions other than having the fuel filter replaced, which I imagine would be expensive as heck given its location, I'm wondering whether the PO171 problem may be related to another issue I had at the beginning of the summer, namely my A/C refusing to cool. I added more refrigerant without any luck, then replaced the filter/orifice, which was completely clogged, and refilled with coolant. Both times the car cooled for a day, then stopped. I have an ultraviolet light to pick up the dye in the coolant, but I can't detect any leaks. I'm out of ideas, so I'm wondering whether ya'll might think there's a connection, however unlikely, between the PO171 issue and the failure of the A/C to cool. Or, if you have more suggestions on how to remedy either, I'd welcome them! Thanks!
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I have a 92 Geo Prizm with 144000 miles. Runs fine except that it's taken to not starting when the temperature reaches 30 or below. I've had the starter and alternator and ignition replaced and it has a new battery. I don't want to put in a lot of money on this car since it's 13-years-old but I would like to get through the coming winter. Anybody else have a problem like this? |
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Replying to: playa69 (Sep 13, 2005 3:55 pm) |
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Replying to: ruddneck (Nov 21, 2005 5:47 am) However, I heard back from the dealer an hour or two after I dropped the car off. As with other folks' experience with this problem, it was the mass air flow sensor. Parts and labor and a new sensor cost me $352.99 overall. Pricey, but the car runs like new now, and even the A/C seems to cool quicker (though I reckon I have to wait till summer to test that out fully!). |
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Replying to: mdfloyd (Nov 26, 2005 9:00 pm) 
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Replying to: staci1 (Dec 07, 2005 6:10 pm)
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I had some repairs done to my 1998 Prizm LSi yesterday, and I told them that the panel under the shift lever -- the one that reads "PRND2L" -- doesn't light up any more. The repair guy said that after opening it up, he couldn't find place to PUT a light bulb. I'm sure I remember being able to see the shifter setting in the dark before. Am I wrong? Or will my repairman have to remove the entire shifter cover to replace the bulb? Shawn |
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Brief history: I was returning home from a short trip ~25 miles. I let off the accelerator to turn right into my subdivision and the engine died.  It restarted and ran rough until i parked it in my driveway 2 blocks from where it died. Since then it stalls at traffic stops and depending how it stalls: either restarts immediately if it just dies or takes a minute or two if it sputters, seems to diesel, run backward and back flow through intake. Sometimes rough on acceleration sometimes smooth. When rough sometimes gentle pumping would let it catch and become smooth. Parts replaced so far: O2 sensor - no change in symptoms Fuel Filter - no change in symptoms Fuel Pump and pressure regulator - better for awhile but symptoms returned a week later. Drove to Nascar race in Atlanta ~350 miles one way. It went smooth on the interstate and highways with no problems as long as I didn't have to stop for a traffic light or stop sign. Only died twice on the way and twice on the way back. Averaged 35 M.P.G. for the trip. Timing Belt and alternator belt not for symptoms but wanted it done anyway - ran great that evening even through mechanics test drive but when I went to test drive it the symptoms returned. Next morning it wouldn't start at all. When checked found plenty of spark but no pulse at fuel injectors.  ECU - (obtained at reasonable price from eBay with warranty) Finally got it to start but symptoms remain. Next morning no start again. Found code retrieval info and got code from ECU that read normal (steady flash). Throttle Position Sensor (changed but not adjusted to specs as we couldn't find pin outs to follow adjustment procedure)- Drove to parts store where it "acted up" on the way to and on the return trip. Checked ECU for code and retrieved code 31 . M.A.P. Sensor - Finally got it to start again but accelleration again produces different results. Sometimes it is smooth. Sometimes it chokes, dies, diesels and hard to restart. Sometimes dies right away on accelleration and easy to restart. Next morning no start again.  ECU returns no code . This is where I am at after 7 months of chasing my tail and my Mechanic is just pulling his hair out now. Any ideas out there????? This is my only car and now has me stranded until I get this solved. The no starting just started since the weather turned cold. I only paid $600 US for the car when I bought it in April, 2005, now I'm at ~$760 in parts and labor since July. I'm willing to put a little more change into it since the gas mileage is so good on it though. 
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