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#1256 of 1322 2002 Prizm: Noise when running in gear by jerrynelse Jan 26, 2009 (6:55 pm)
thanks for the inputs geoblue and glenpointe. I checked with a local Chevy dealer and their Maintenance schedule recommends changing the manual transmission fluid every 30,000 miles whether mostly local or long distance travel. I have had a lot of cars in my 70 years and I've never heard of changing transmission fluid but I guess I'll start there. The dealer had no experiance changing the fluid in a manual transmission but his on line service manual indicated the drain plug was on the bottom and the fill plug was on the side but from the crude drawing available to him he could not tell which side and I can not see from under the hood. Glenpointe: I guess I'll find it once I get under it but does your repair book give a specific location and are there any "kickers" that you are aware of in refilling that I should be aware of before I start ?   The Chevy dealer said it takes 2 quarts of GM 75W90 GL4 synthetic gear oil which they sell for $25.50/Qt.(!?) The local NAPA parts store tells me their 75W90 GL4 is non-synthetic and sells for $3.69. Their synthetic 75W90 is GL5 and costs $11.99/Qt. I am leaning toward the NAPA synthetic GL5 unless your repair book or experiance indicates otherwise.   Thanks again, Jerry Replies to this message: d_a_r_y_l (Mar 03, 2009 3:26 pm) d_a_r_y_l (Mar 03, 2009 4:15 pm) d_a_r_y_l (Mar 05, 2009 5:46 am)
#1257 of 1322 by glenpointe Jan 26, 2009 (7:19 pm)
The drain plug should be at the bottom, and the fill plug is located in front of the transmission. If you remove the splash shield (under the engine) on the driver's side, you can see the plug (approx. one inch size nut). drive the car few miles to have the oil warmed up. Then remove the fill plug first. (This step just in case you already drained the oil and can't get the fill plug removed). Then remove the drain plug and drain the oil. Place the drain plug back, make sure the car on level surface and fill the trans. You need a long hose...keep filling until the oil over-flow out of the drain plug hole. Put the plug back and you are done. It should not take you more than 30 minutes.   Note: when you remove the splash shield, use W_40 spraying the bolts real good and let them sit for awhile. If you don't, the bolts will break off and it takes you more time drilling them out. BTW, the manufacture did not use synthetic oil in your trans so non-synthetic should work just fine.
#1258 of 1322 by jerrynelse Jan 27, 2009 (7:04 pm)
Thanks a lot Glenpointe. I'm sure I'll also need a funnel that will fit into fill end of the hose. Jerry
#1259 of 1322 Re: 2002 Prizm: Noise when running in gear [jerrynelse] by d_a_r_y_l Mar 03, 2009 (3:26 pm)
Replying to: jerrynelse (Jan 26, 2009 6:55 pm) The non-synthetic stuff that Autozone, O'reiily, Advance and Napa (ect.) are selling says GL5, GL4, GL3. Don't put this stuff in your vehicle if it requires GL3 or GL4. This is a ploy, by all the auto parts places, to push GL5 lubricant as being compatible with GL4/3. I called a oil technician at Shell (1-800-373-5823). He said it is impossible to have an oil that is completely compatible with all three ratings (except, maybe synthetic). This scourge has just recently started. The same gear lubricant that used to state just GL5, now says GL5/4/3. Call the above number yourself. Ask any oil specialist you can find online. I'm sure they will tell you the same thing. I have a Nissan that specifies GL4 lube in the trans. I guess I'm going to shell out the $12.49/QT for Nissan's non-synthetic 75W-85. If anybody knows where you can get REAL GL4 non-synthetic gear lube, please post. I would much rather pay $4/QT +/-, plus shipping, than Nissan's price....Let alone, the price of synthetic. Alot of the auto parts places sell Royal Purple synthetic gear lube that is compatible with GL4 but, it's pricey. About $15/QT. Keep in mind that, if you have alot of miles on a vehicle, the synthetic oil is more likely to seep out around the seals. Replies to this message: d_a_r_y_l (Mar 03, 2009 4:15 pm) d_a_r_y_l (Mar 05, 2009 5:46 am)
#1260 of 1322 Re: 2002 Prizm: Noise when running in gear [d_a_r_y_l] by d_a_r_y_l Mar 03, 2009 (4:15 pm)
Replying to: d_a_r_y_l (Mar 03, 2009 3:26 pm) Additionally, do not use GL5 lube in a GL4 application (Again, unless it is a synthetic lube rated GL4/GL5). Do not use a synthetic lube that only has a rating of GL5, in a GL4 application. Non-synthetic GL4 rated lubricants have a special formulation that is best for the non-ferrous metals in the transmission (brass.ect). GL5 non-synthetic lube will damage these parts in the long run. Replies to this message: d_a_r_y_l (Mar 05, 2009 5:46 am)
#1261 of 1322 Re: 2002 Prizm: Noise when running in gear [d_a_r_y_l] by d_a_r_y_l Mar 05, 2009 (5:46 am)
Replying to: d_a_r_y_l (Mar 03, 2009 4:15 pm) I wanted to reitterate. After doing quite a bit of research on the subject, I've come to the conclusion that, if ANY gear lube/oil states GL5, sythetic or non-synthetic, even if it states GL4/GL5, do not use it in a sychromesh transmission (exception following). If it states GL5, it contains sulfur/phosphorus compounds that will etch the copper containing parts in transmissions (brass or copper). A GL5 lubricant should also state "Hypoid". The term hypoid means that it is formulated for the extreme pressures generated in the helically cut gears in a rear end/differential.   (exception) There are older transmissions in which almost any 75W90/80W90 lube will work. In most of these older transmissions you wouldn't want to use a GL4 only oil.   If your transmission specifications call for GL5, use any correct weight lubricant that states GL5. If your transmission specifications call for GL4, only use a lube rated GL4 and nothing that states Hypoid or states anything about being suitable for rear ends/differentials.   From what I can see, the only thing put out by Royal Purple that is good for a GL4 transmission application is their synthetic Synchromax lubricant. I found Pennzoil Gearplus GL4 80W90 mineral based lubricant (non-synthetic) that would be cheaper than most, but I've yet to find a place where it can be purchased. My Nissan calls for GL4 75W85, four quarts. I'm really curious whether it would be feasible to put three quarts of GL4 80W90 non-synthetic gear oil in the trans (if I can ever find it) and top it up with a quart of motor oil, say Castrol 20W50, to thin it down to about a 75W85. The transmission is already raking a little going into gears. I'm worried that it might rake worse if I put 80W90 only in it. Anybody want to chime in on that subject? Hmmmm. I just thought of something. Maybe three quarts of 80W90 and a quart of Lucas to top it up!!
#1262 of 1322 95 Geo Prizm "Clunk" Noise by camaroeatstang Mar 11, 2009 (1:47 pm)
Hi. I just bought my first car about a month ago, a 1995 Geo Prizm. It's the 4 cyl automatic base model with 182,000 miles (yikes).   I have two questions.   Whenever I go to make a right hand turn (I wouldn't even say sharp), mid-turn the car makes a "clunk" noise. Also, when the car first starts up, the belt squeaks and the steering wheel is very hard to turn, but it eventually gets better. Now, the car is starting to pull towards the left. I've heard this noise could be the CV joints, struts, ball joints, rack and pinion.. Has anyone else had this problem?   Also, I know it's only a 4 cyl car, but the acceleration is pathetic. I sometimes have to floor it just to go 40 to keep up with traffic. Is there anything that can be done to give the car a bit more "get up and go?"   Thanks! Replies to this message: geoblue (Mar 11, 2009 2:07 pm)
#1263 of 1322 Re: 95 Geo Prizm "Clunk" Noise [camaroeatstang] by geoblue Mar 11, 2009 (2:07 pm)
Replying to: camaroeatstang (Mar 11, 2009 1:47 pm) Hi camaroeatstang,   I have a 94 Prizm with 119k miles. If you ever listened to cartalk show on NPR you would know that many people have experienced this clunk noise.I have not so far, thank God. CV joints can be the problem. As for pulling to left, it might be a sign that car needs alignment.   I have that same belt squeak problem. Belts and/or tensioner/s need changing (fan belt and power steering belt).But before that you should have the belts tightened.Loose belts squeak and make steering wheel hard to turn.I took the car to a local carx and they did it for free and it solved the problem then, now slowly coming back though... Unrelated to this, there is the timing belt that need to be changed once every 100k miles or so.Mine needs changing too. Maybe yours have been changed by the previous owner.   For get up and go, try using Lucas upper cylinder cleaner/injector cleaner. It works.It is cheaper (by volume) and more effective than any other injector cleaner. You will see a positive difference. But if you want more power, you might want to change the spark plugs and/or wires. NGK BKR5EYA is my choice of spark plugs with 0,032 inch gap. It is around 2 dollars each. NGK has nice wires, rockauto.com sells it for 30some dollars, cheapest in market and made in Japan (original). This will also improve your gas mileage. I bet your car suffers from low gas mileage too, since there may be misfires.   Geo Prizms are great cars even in today's standards. If you take care of it it will last for another 120-200k miles.   Create a cardomain.com profile, I have mine there.
#1264 of 1322 by camaroeatstang Mar 11, 2009 (7:23 pm)
Actually, the car gets about 35 miles per gallon. I find that to be sufficient for a 14 year old car, haha.   If the CV joints need to be replaced, is that an expensive fix?
#1265 of 1322 Steering fluid leak by dadtofour Mar 14, 2009 (5:31 am)
I have a 94 Geo Prizm that has developed a leak in the high pressure line for the steering fluid. I am reasonably adept at repairs when I have some guidance, but can't find anything to help in this area. Given the age and value of this car, the quoted repair cost seems a bit extreme. Any ideas?

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