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Sedans Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm
1322 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 2:12 PM
You are in the Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: redbeast (Jan 01, 2009 9:23 pm) Do you trust the garage you first took your car to? The spark plugs should be in a certain heat range and they should have a certain gap.If they put a different spec. spark plug it would case problems and excessive fuel consumption. Did it occur to you that your car died perhaps just because of a blown fuse? Try adding Lucas upper cylinder / injector cleaner once you are low on gas.You can find it at autozone, checkers, kragen, advance auto stores etc. Try it. Also your current problem might be caused by a dirty throttle body that needs to be cleaned.
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Replying to: geoblue (Jan 02, 2009 4:06 am)
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Replying to: redbeast (Jan 02, 2009 6:38 pm)
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Replying to: redbeast (Jan 14, 2009 9:23 pm) Do not take what I say as true because what I am doing is just guessing. It might be fuel-releated.Probably it is not getting fuel to burn. Did you check your air filter? Might be clogged. The repair book I have says: (if your problem is engine missing at idle speed) 1.Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly. 2.Faulty spark plug wires 3.Vacuum leaks 4.Incorrect ignition timing 5.Uneven or low compression 6.Problem with the fuel injection system Is it hard to start when it is cold? Because there are answers for this question too. If 'engine stalls' : 1.Idle speed incorrect 2.Fuel filter clogged and /or water and impurities in the fuel system 3.Distributor components damp or damaged 4.Faulty emissions system components 5.Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (when was the last time were the spark plugs changed on this car?) 6.Faulty spark plug wires 7.Vacuum leak in the fuel injection system, intake manifold or vacuum hoses 8.Valve clearances incorrectly set. Engine starts but stops immediately: 1.Loose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or alternator (THE POLES OF THE BATTERY MIGHT BE RUSTY and needs to be cleaned with a mix of baking soda and water..i did this and it helped clean up the rust. Also is your battery new?) 2.Insufficient fuel reaching the fuel injectors 3.Vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold/plenum and the throttle body 4.Idle speed incorrect. These are the answers to some questions/problems I found reading Haynes repair manual. |
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| I am sure it is something simple and easy/relatively cheap to fix thing but it needs to be found either by you or somebody you trust. | |
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I have a 2002 Prizm with a standard transmission which I believe is mechanically identical to the Toyota Corrola. It has approximately 60,000 miles. I have noticed a growling or tapping noise lately when the car is running in gear. It almost sounds like valves tapping but the noise is not present when coasting in neutral at same speed, idling or reving the engine. The noise seems to be coming from the front of the car. I plan on jacking the front wheels of the ground and running the car in gear to listen where the noise is coming from but winter in PA is not a good time to do this. Does anyone have a similar problem or ideas? Thanks
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Replying to: jerrynelse (Jan 22, 2009 5:22 pm) |
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Dear glenpoint, I'm sorry. I don't understand. Which "front bearing" wheel, clutch etc? and how does one check? Thanks, Jerry
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Replying to: jerrynelse (Jan 22, 2009 5:22 pm) I got these from a repair book I have and it is for manual transmission Prizms/Corollas: If it is knocking noise at low speeds, 1/Worn driveaxle constant velocity (CV) joints 2/Worn side gear shaft counterbore in differential case. Clunk on acceleration or deceleration.: 1/Loose engine or transaxle mounts, 2/Worn differential pinion shaft in case, 3/Worn side gear shaft counterbore in differential case, 4/Worn or damaged driveaxle inboard CV joints. Clicking noise in turns: Worn or damaged outboard CV joint Vibration: 1/Rough wheel bearing 2/Damaged driveaxle 3/Out of round tires, 4/Tire out of balance, 5/Worn CV joint Since your car is not noisy in neutral with engine running it is probably not damaged input gear bearing, or damaged clutch release bearing. Noisy in one particular gear: 1/Damaged or worn constant mesh gears, 2/Damaged or worn synchronizers, 3/Bent reverese fork, 4/Damaged fourth speed gear or output gear 5/Worn or damaged reverse idler gear or idler bushing. Noisy in all gears: 1/Insufficient lubricant 2/Damaged or worn bearings (your car is not noisy in all gears?) 3/Worn or damaged input gear shaft and/or output gear shaft. Not a personal input but I hope it helps you diagnose the problem... |
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Replying to: jerrynelse (Jan 23, 2009 11:14 am) |
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