Last post on Mar 01, 2013 at 9:56 PM
You are in the Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm
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Chevrolet Prizm, Geo Prizm, Sedan
#1084 of 1443 Re: 1995 geo prism [imadad2]
Nov 09, 2006 (6:09 pm)
I have a 2000 Prizm as well and have the same problem. It hesitates and sputters when first started every day and again after it sit for a couple of hours. Have you found any thing that has fixed this problem. I have changed the Fuel pump and screen, cleaned the MAP sensor, changed plugs, had the intake and cylinders flushed to remove carbon and nothing has changed it. I have read the the caytalitic converter can also cause this problem as well as the emissions canister. I am getting a little tired of changing parts one at a time. Please if you have found something that works could you pass it along.
#1085 of 1443 93 Geo Prizm misfiring
Nov 10, 2006 (1:18 pm)
My 1993 Geo Prizm almost ran out of gas the other day and ever since it hasnt run right. It almost seems like it is only running on 3 cylinders and then my check engine light came on. Inside my car now has a strong smell of gas.I checked the light and it gave me a code 25. What could this be? Im at a loss here. Please help!
#1086 of 1443 Re: Geo Prizm spark plug gaps [sunyvel]
Nov 12, 2006 (12:21 am)
Actually, I ran into the same problem about the different gaps. I called NGK tech support and they told me I should use the gap stated in the manual as they get their information from third parties and sometimes they are wrong.
The 1997 Geo Prizm manual on page 6-65 under "Replacement Parts" states that the gap should be 0.031 inch (0.8mm)
I will use 0.031 spark plug gap instead of what the auto parts says.
I have the manual on PDF format if anyone is interested.
#1087 of 1443 Re: Are belts fairly easy to change & Starting problems: [rene01]
Nov 14, 2006 (12:07 pm)
did you ever get the starting proble fixed. If so whiat did you do I have the Same problem with my 1991 Geo Prizm
#1088 of 1443 Air Conditioning Compressor
Dec 12, 2006 (12:12 pm)
On my 2002 Prizm el stripo, (My Wife bought it I didn't)seemed to operate and drive OK,but several months ago it began a rattly noise in drive and at idle. It kept getting worse, so 10 days ago I took it to the local Chevrolet dealer. Several hours later they called and said that the air conditioning compressor was bad and needed replaced. I wasn't having any trouble with cooling but in order to get rid of the noise I authorized the repair. My wife drove the car home and didn't say anything about any noise. I drove the car several days later and found that the same noise still persisted. The dealer had replaced the compressor with a rebuilt compressor. The total bill was $753.00 and change. I took it back to the dealer and complained and the service writer turned me over to the mechanic who serviced the car. He said that the original compressor was bad internally but that all the compressor's sound like this. The car was bought used and didn't sound like that at that time. Anybody out there had the same problem? Advise
#1089 of 1443 Re: Air Conditioning Compressor [bud1123]
Dec 12, 2006 (5:18 pm)
I had the same problem, but it really was the compressor--it wasn't cooling, the car would leak refrigerant as quickly as I could put it in, and changing the filter made no difference. I also had that same horrible rattle.
I had a brand new compressor put in (on the recommendation of the service manager who said the quality of rebuilt ones these days was very erratic) and the problem was solved. It did, however, set me back $892. But on those sweltering humid Southern summer days, it seems money well spent (or at least that's how I rationalize the expense).
#1090 of 1443 Running Lean....Check engine light is on
Dec 26, 2006 (10:18 am)
I have a 2000 Chevy Prizm with about 110,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on a few months ago and our mechanic said it was the Catalytic Converter.
I waited several months, and then had it replaced, but the check engine light came on again, and the mechanic said that an O2 sensor needed replacing, so he did that as well.
Well, 45 miles later, the check engine light came on again. I took the car in, and the mechanic said he was getting a "RUnning Lean" code.....but that he checked everything on the car, and nothing seemed to be wrong. So he reset the switch, turning the light off, and told me to drive it again to see if the light would come on again.
Exactly 45 miles later (again) the light came on.
Now I'm $900.00 in the hole, and my SMOG check is due immediately, for registration (lucky me). And I will have to take it back for him to do a deeper search.....but I would really appreciate any advice on this scenario...and what the potential problem might be.
#1092 of 1443 Re: Geo Prizm spark plug gaps [jcjimenezl]
Jan 05, 2007 (1:44 pm)
I'd love a copy of that manual. Could you send it to:
#1093 of 1443 1997 Geo Prism check engine light
Jan 05, 2007 (1:46 pm)
Anyone know how to turn off the check engine light on a 1997 geo prism.