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Sedans Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm
1322 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 2:12 PM
You are in the Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: atlasoff (Oct 17, 2006 5:42 am) I just ran into the same problem this evening. Was anyone able to shed any light on it for you? Dennis
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Replying to: dpernu (Oct 31, 2006 5:30 pm) No one here was able to help, BUT, we figured it out. And the whole set up seems rather evil, like "they" don't wan't you to figure it out. Prefirst, unattach the battery! (That's how I got into this whole mess!..  ) First, you'll have to unscrew the screws that literally attach the whole fusebox to the car because you're going to need to get at the bottom of the box. Once that's done, you'll be able to pull the box up a little, although the wires running into the box will still prevent comfortable movement. Second, take hold of the nested box that contains the block of high amp fuses from the bottom, squeeze the sides with one hand, while you push the block of fuses from the top. The high-amp block should sink from the surface of the main fuse box. If it doesn't sink for you, you can stick two screwdrivers into those little slots on both sides of the high-amp block and squeeze the box that way (we did it that way first because we had no idea what was going on, but that didn't seem like the official way to do it). Third, assuming you've been successful with step two, you'll see that you've got some heavy duty wires running into this little high-amp unit that you've separated from the main fuse box. We did not figure out a way to officially get the bottom cover off of the high-amp box. We stuck a little screwdriver into the seams and at the same time put pressure on the plastic (it's thin, and somewhat flexible). We were able to get it off, but maybe you'll have better luck figuring out the "official" non-mickey-mouse way. Fourth, once you've had success getting that little bottom cover off of the high-amp box, you'll see that you just have to unscrew the screws that secure the wires through the 100-amp alternator fuse, replace the fuse, and reverse the steps. After reconnecting the battery, you will finished a journey that seems to be totally undocumented, even in the official shop manual for the Prizm. What a pain! Let me know how it goes. Julie |
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Replying to: 95prizm (Oct 23, 2006 6:00 am) |
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Hi: I have always owned geo prizms. There is nothing like them. But right now we bought one for $400.00 dollars and put maybe another $500.00 into it and still have one problem. it was hit in the front by the front tire on the right side. We have put all new tires (goodyear tire paws) all new brakes all new struts all new wheel bearins and all new axles and still there is a minor shake in the right front tire is where i believe it is. Any suggestions? I asked my husband if after it was lined up if the tire could need to be re balanced and he says no. so i thought i would come here to see if i could get any other suggestions because he has had enough of it but i want it fixed. it shakes for a reason. and the car is in good shape for what we paid for it. Thanks for your help  
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Replying to: imadad2 (May 25, 2006 8:35 am) |
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My 1993 Geo Prizm almost ran out of gas the other day and ever since it hasnt run right. It almost seems like it is only running on 3 cylinders and then my check engine light came on. Inside my car now has a strong smell of gas.I checked the light and it gave me a code 25. What could this be? Im at a loss here.  Please help!
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Replying to: sunyvel (Aug 25, 2006 2:00 pm) The 1997 Geo Prizm manual on page 6-65 under "Replacement Parts" states that the gap should be 0.031 inch (0.8mm) I will use 0.031 spark plug gap instead of what the auto parts says. I have the manual on PDF format if anyone is interested. |
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Replying to: rene01 (Jun 21, 2006 11:09 am) |
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On my 2002 Prizm el stripo, (My Wife bought it I didn't)seemed to operate and drive OK,but several months ago it began a rattly noise in drive and at idle. It kept getting worse, so 10 days ago I took it to the local Chevrolet dealer. Several hours later they called and said that the air conditioning compressor was bad and needed replaced. I wasn't having any trouble with cooling but in order to get rid of the noise I authorized the repair. My wife drove the car home and didn't say anything about any noise. I drove the car several days later and found that the same noise still persisted. The dealer had replaced the compressor with a rebuilt compressor. The total bill was $753.00 and change. I took it back to the dealer and complained and the service writer turned me over to the mechanic who serviced the car. He said that the original compressor was bad internally but that all the compressor's sound like this. The car was bought used and didn't sound like that at that time. Anybody out there had the same problem? Advise  
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Replying to: bud1123 (Dec 12, 2006 11:12 am) I had a brand new compressor put in (on the recommendation of the service manager who said the quality of rebuilt ones these days was very erratic) and the problem was solved. It did, however, set me back $892. But on those sweltering humid Southern summer days, it seems money well spent (or at least that's how I rationalize the expense). |
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