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Buick Park Avenue

485 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 5:30 PM

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#481 of 485 Re: 99 Dooor Handle [waynezo] by bowlee Oct 16, 2009 (7:31 pm)
Replying to: waynezo (Sep 17, 2008 5:19 am) 1998 Buick Park Avenue Driver Side Door Handle Replacement   A tip broke off an arm like protrusion on the back of my door handle - supergluing did no good as I was able to easily snap it off again. A replacement handle was $93 at my dealer (ouch). I replaced it in about 2 hours, working slow and carefully - all is well now.   Put window up. Remove the inner door panel by removing 3 screws total. Two are located in the arm rest (below the little plastic panel that can be removed using a flat blade screw driver – it needs to be bent up slightly), and the other screw is located behind the door light (use flat blade screw driver to pop out the light). Lift the panel up and a number of clips behind the panel will release as you lift the panel up. Disconnect the wire harness.   There is a black vinyl covering stuck with some kind of black putty to the inner door below the panel. It can be pulled away enough to access the door handle area without removing it completely. I had to pull it off the top two black plastic fasteners and left side, but was able to leave the right side and bottom still stuck on.   Unclip the lock latch rod (bottom black clip), remove the two bolts holding the handle – the left side bolt is a little trickier to get at and you’ll need a small 10mm wrench to get at it. The right bolt is easily accessible. The handle will now partially pop out. You now need to unhook the upper latch rod (black clip). The handle will now come out. Don’t worry if you drop one of the bolts in the door – you can easily reach a thin arm down to the bottom of the door!   Take the key lock out and put it into your new handle and follow these steps backwards to put your door back together.">
#482 of 485 1998 Park Avenue Suspension by brian1998 Nov 05, 2009 (11:53 pm)
I have a 1998 Park Avenue and I replaced my rear shocks. How can i tell if my load leveling compressor is working? Also is it possible to upgrade the rear deck speakers if they have a amplifier. Thanks. Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Nov 06, 2009 4:25 pm) 99ultra (Nov 20, 2009 3:35 pm)
#483 of 485 Re: 1998 Park Avenue Suspension [brian1998] by imidazol97 Nov 06, 2009 (4:25 pm)
Replying to: brian1998 (Nov 05, 2009 11:53 pm) On my H-bodies I own the compressor runs for about 3-5 seconds after the key is on for 30-40 seconds.   Turn your key on and go stand beside the rear or the car. You'll hear the compressor run to adjust the pressure in the shocks.
#484 of 485 Re: 1998 Park Avenue Suspension [brian1998] by 99ultra Nov 20, 2009 (3:35 pm)
Replying to: brian1998 (Nov 05, 2009 11:53 pm) First to check your load leveling system toss a bunch of heavy crap in the trunk, you should hear the compressor kick on and see the rear end raise up.   Second the rear speakers, I replaced my rear decks with pioneer speakers from cruthfield, you will need to get some adaptive stuff at the local parts store to make the conections. I did not do anything else and the upgrade is well worth it.
#485 of 485 Re: fuel gauge problem.... help... [witt42] by bowlee Nov 28, 2009 (5:30 pm)
Replying to: witt42 (Dec 26, 2007 8:16 pm) THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! My 98 PA has had this fuel gauge issue for a few years and I've been reluctant to drill a hole in the plastic - the magnet trick worked like a charm!!! If it happens again, I'll know what to do. By the way, the dealership said it would be about $1000 to put in a new instrument panel to fix the problem. My PA looks as good as new now.

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