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Buick Park Avenue

519 messages,  Last post on Sep 03, 2012 at 7:01 PM

You are in the Buick Park Avenue Forum.

What is this discussion about? Buick Park Avenue, Sedan

Messages Page 49 of 52

#480 of 519 park ave won't start by dano32

Oct 09, 2009 (11:30 am)

I have a 1991 park ave. a few weeks ago it wouldn't start due to no spark. i ended up replacing the module and it woked fine for a couple of weeks before dying while moving when my daughter was driving it. i again i didn't have spark and didn't think it was the module again, and the coil pack wasn't arcing out like they do , so i replaced the cam and crank sensors....nothing. I got a used module off a car with a bad tranny so i knew it worked. the car started and ran for about ten seconds before dying and not starting again. is my module getting fried? is it possible my coil pack is shorting internally and damaging my module? i hate to go buy a coil pack and 100$ module to test my theory. is there anyway to test the module and coil pack???
 
thanks,
 
guy who should've spent more on his daughters school car!!

#481 of 519 Re: 99 Dooor Handle [waynezo] by bowlee

Oct 16, 2009 (8:31 pm)

Replying to: waynezo (Sep 17, 2008 6:19 am)
1998 Buick Park Avenue Driver Side Door Handle Replacement
 
A tip broke off an arm like protrusion on the back of my door handle - supergluing did no good as I was able to easily snap it off again. A replacement handle was $93 at my dealer (ouch). I replaced it in about 2 hours, working slow and carefully - all is well now.
 
Put window up. Remove the inner door panel by removing 3 screws total. Two are located in the arm rest (below the little plastic panel that can be removed using a flat blade screw driver – it needs to be bent up slightly), and the other screw is located behind the door light (use flat blade screw driver to pop out the light). Lift the panel up and a number of clips behind the panel will release as you lift the panel up. Disconnect the wire harness.
 
There is a black vinyl covering stuck with some kind of black putty to the inner door below the panel. It can be pulled away enough to access the door handle area without removing it completely. I had to pull it off the top two black plastic fasteners and left side, but was able to leave the right side and bottom still stuck on.
 
Unclip the lock latch rod (bottom black clip), remove the two bolts holding the handle – the left side bolt is a little trickier to get at and you’ll need a small 10mm wrench to get at it. The right bolt is easily accessible. The handle will now partially pop out. You now need to unhook the upper latch rod (black clip). The handle will now come out.
Don’t worry if you drop one of the bolts in the door – you can easily reach a thin arm down to the bottom of the door!
 
Take the key lock out and put it into your new handle and follow these steps backwards to put your door back together.">

#482 of 519 1998 Park Avenue Suspension by brian1998

Nov 06, 2009 (12:53 am)

I have a 1998 Park Avenue and I replaced my rear shocks. How can i tell if my load leveling compressor is working? Also is it possible to upgrade the rear deck speakers if they have a amplifier. Thanks.

#483 of 519 Re: 1998 Park Avenue Suspension [brian1998] by imidazol97

Nov 06, 2009 (5:25 pm)

Replying to: brian1998 (Nov 06, 2009 12:53 am)
On my H-bodies I own the compressor runs for about 3-5 seconds after the key is on for 30-40 seconds.
 
Turn your key on and go stand beside the rear or the car. You'll hear the compressor run to adjust the pressure in the shocks.

#484 of 519 Re: 1998 Park Avenue Suspension [brian1998] by 99ultra

Nov 20, 2009 (4:35 pm)

Replying to: brian1998 (Nov 06, 2009 12:53 am)
First to check your load leveling system toss a bunch of heavy crap in the trunk, you should hear the compressor kick on and see the rear end raise up.
 
Second the rear speakers, I replaced my rear decks with pioneer speakers from cruthfield, you will need to get some adaptive stuff at the local parts store to make the conections. I did not do anything else and the upgrade is well worth it.

#485 of 519 Re: fuel gauge problem.... help... [witt42] by bowlee

Nov 28, 2009 (6:30 pm)

Replying to: witt42 (Dec 26, 2007 9:16 pm)
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! My 98 PA has had this fuel gauge issue for a few years and I've been reluctant to drill a hole in the plastic - the magnet trick worked like a charm!!! If it happens again, I'll know what to do. By the way, the dealership said it would be about $1000 to put in a new instrument panel to fix the problem. My PA looks as good as new now.

#486 of 519 95 Park Ave by harpguy

Dec 07, 2009 (2:45 pm)

My Park Ave will not shift from 2nd to third. Bought used. OD has never shifted properly

#487 of 519 Recent Park Ave convertee... by andre1969

Dec 29, 2009 (12:30 pm)

hey guys. I picked up a 2000 Park Ave Ultra on December 12, so I figured I should drop by in here and say hi! Previous car was a 2000 Intrepid, bought brand-new, that ran fine, but alas, was totaled when someone pulled a hit-and-run on it in a restaurant parking lot.
 
Here's a pic of the new beast...

 
It had around 56,300 miles on it when I bought it, although I've only put about 260 on it since I've had it. It was previously owned by a 65 year old lady who bought it new, and traded on a 2010 LaCrosse CXS. Hopefully it'll last a long, long time!

#488 of 519 Re: fuel gauge problem.... help... [witt42] by jay321

Dec 30, 2009 (3:01 pm)

Replying to: witt42 (Dec 26, 2007 9:16 pm)
Thanks so much for the "magnet" method to fix this. I just fixed my father in law's 1998 Park Avenue that had a fuel needle and temperature needle stuck below the stop peg. You just saved me a lot of time. I was able to rotate the fuel needle with a magnet in about 20 seconds, the temperature gauge was a little trickier but with some patience, it took about 10 minutes to nudge the needle counterclockwise. A great trick!

#489 of 519 Tranny problem by harpguy

Dec 31, 2009 (8:15 am)

95 Park avenue will not shift from second to third or OD. Would changing filter help or is it shot ?

Messages Page 49 of 52

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