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Buick Park Avenue

485 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 5:30 PM
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| Good afternoon. I have a 1999 Buick PA with about 135,000 miles on it. For some time now my "Service Engine Soon" light has been on. My car, without much notice, will shut off whenever I stop at red lights, stop signs or slow down to turn corners. I took it to AZ and they put a little monitor beneath my dash board. It read "MAS" (Massive Airflow Sensor I believe). I bought the sensor, had it installed and the "Service ..." light went off - but only for about 1 week. Last Sunday, the second week since the light has been off, while driving to a store about 1.5 miles away all was fine. When I left the store, however, a block away my car seemed like it was gasping for air (more like choaking) and cut off. After four attempts to restart it (when I turned the key in the ignition, I would hear it come on but it would not stay on), I finally got it going. It has not gone off since that time, but now I need inspection and I know it won't pass because of that darn light. Also, I've had the car for about four years and it has had a tune-up maybe once during that time. Needless to say, I want it fixed for safety reasons, too! Thanks! | |
| Will the outer door handle from 98 buick LaSaber work. | |
| hey, was wondering if anyone knows if I can use a 93' Regal engine in my 91' Park Avenue. Some things are different but if I can I make it work will the electrical and such be compatable with my car? What other engines can I use? | |
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Replying to: dafraq (Aug 09, 2008 10:36 am) |
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I have a 1991 park ave. a few weeks ago it wouldn't start due to no spark. i ended up replacing the module and it woked fine for a couple of weeks before dying while moving when my daughter was driving it. i again i didn't have spark and didn't think it was the module again, and the coil pack wasn't arcing out like they do , so i replaced the cam and crank sensors....nothing. I got a used module off a car with a bad tranny so i knew it worked. the car started and ran for about ten seconds before dying and not starting again. is my module getting fried? is it possible my coil pack is shorting internally and damaging my module? i hate to go buy a coil pack and 100$ module to test my theory. is there anyway to test the module and coil pack??? thanks, guy who should've spent more on his daughters school car!! |
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Replying to: waynezo (Sep 17, 2008 5:19 am) A tip broke off an arm like protrusion on the back of my door handle - supergluing did no good as I was able to easily snap it off again. A replacement handle was $93 at my dealer (ouch). I replaced it in about 2 hours, working slow and carefully - all is well now. Put window up. Remove the inner door panel by removing 3 screws total. Two are located in the arm rest (below the little plastic panel that can be removed using a flat blade screw driver – it needs to be bent up slightly), and the other screw is located behind the door light (use flat blade screw driver to pop out the light). Lift the panel up and a number of clips behind the panel will release as you lift the panel up. Disconnect the wire harness. There is a black vinyl covering stuck with some kind of black putty to the inner door below the panel. It can be pulled away enough to access the door handle area without removing it completely. I had to pull it off the top two black plastic fasteners and left side, but was able to leave the right side and bottom still stuck on. Unclip the lock latch rod (bottom black clip), remove the two bolts holding the handle – the left side bolt is a little trickier to get at and you’ll need a small 10mm wrench to get at it. The right bolt is easily accessible. The handle will now partially pop out. You now need to unhook the upper latch rod (black clip). The handle will now come out. Don’t worry if you drop one of the bolts in the door – you can easily reach a thin arm down to the bottom of the door! Take the key lock out and put it into your new handle and follow these steps backwards to put your door back together."> |
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I have a 1998 Park Avenue and I replaced my rear shocks. How can i tell if my load leveling compressor is working? Also is it possible to upgrade the rear deck speakers if they have a amplifier. Thanks.
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Replying to: brian1998 (Nov 05, 2009 11:53 pm) Turn your key on and go stand beside the rear or the car. You'll hear the compressor run to adjust the pressure in the shocks. |
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