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Sedans Buick Park Avenue Buick Park Avenue
485 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 5:30 PM
You are in the Buick Park Avenue Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: rbburg (Mar 10, 2008 1:48 pm) Have the spark plugs been replaced with Delco/AC plugs for that car in the last 30 K miles? Have the spark plug wires been replaced with original equipment wires? in last 50K miles? If it runs rough the first thing to check is there. You might look for a plug wire that has pulled partly off the plug causing a gap. Second would be the 3 coils to see that the connections there aren't corroded. You might remove the coils and inspect them for tracking, cracks, etc. There are other things that can cause your problem, but look for the cheapest and most common first. If it runs better while cold meaning running a little rich, that too could be hint what's happening. Many people have failures of the cam sensor magnet and / or the crankshaft sensor. IF it is crankshaft sensor the usual symptom is that it stalls, won't restart for a while, and then starts and runs. The cam sensor has a magnet that's on the cam that comes loose in its plastic housing. Don't spend money throwing parts at the car. It's better to spend money for competent mechanic to diagnose the problem and fix that one thing.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Mar 11, 2008 4:35 am) Where are the three coils located? Thanks
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Replying to: rbburg (Mar 13, 2008 12:35 pm)
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Mar 14, 2008 5:36 pm) Any idea want to look at next? Thanks. |
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Hello, Just recently I starting having an issue with the Service Stability System light coming on. I have associated this light with a braking issue that also just started. Intermittently when braking and starting a turn to the right there is a nasty grinding noise, which sounds like it's coming from the brakes. It will stop once I start to accelerate and pull out of the turn. I took the vehicle into the Buick dealer for service. They replaced the brakes, calibers were reworked, etc. I was told it was fixed but within a day it did it again. I took the vehicle back to the shop and this time they replaced a sensor they said was bad. Now according to what I have read on various places on the web, if a sensor is bad then not only will the Service Stability System light go on, but the ABS light will go on as well as the Traction Off light. Neither of these came on so now I am wondering if the sensor was really bad? The vehicle is still having the same problems and yesterday it was bad enough that when I released the brake and started to press on the gas (turning to the right) the grinding noise did NOT go away and it actually kept slowing the vehicle down. I had to jerk the wheel to the left before whatever was causing this problem would let loose and I could drive away. The dealership repair shop has NO clue what is going on. Heck, they didn't even know what the Service Stability System light was for? Can anyone shed some light on my problem? Buick Park Avenue Year: 2000 Thank you, Steve
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Replying to: fatguyinaz (Apr 10, 2008 8:31 am) I saw a post where someone applied dielectric grease to the connections at the sensors on the hubs and reconnected them to reseal them on the fronts and that stopped the service stability system message.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Apr 11, 2008 3:02 am) This only happens intermittently. Picture yourself driving along and everything is fine. Then you must make a right turn up ahead so you start to slow down. You apply the brakes (still all is fine) and once you start the turn to the right the grinding sound starts. Normally, when you release the brake during the right turn the sound and vibration will stop. It was just this last time it happened it did not stop when I released the brake. It even continued to hold when I pressed on the gas. My 1st reaction was to jerk the wheel slightly to the left then back again to the right and it released. Road surface is smooth, dry, consistent (not loose). Strange part is it doesn't always happen. I would say it's about 2 times out of 50 it will happen when I start a turn to the right while braking. The sensor that was replaced was a steering sensor. Least that is what I was told by the Buick repair shop. A person mentioned the wheel bearing so I have written this down on my list of suspects for the mechanic. It's very difficult to change to a different Buick mechanic. We are in the middle of nowhere, USA and this is the only Buick mechanic service around for 100's of miles. I would like to thank you for your information. I will continue to watch and hope for more replies with more information. The more the better.
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Replying to: fatguyinaz (Apr 11, 2008 2:24 pm) The wheel bearings in the hub could be a problem. But defective wheel bearings give a snow tire like buzz that grows louder and becomes easier to feel through the chassis. And they self destruct as they become worse with driving. The sensor they replaced is on the steering column and tells the computer where the steering wheel is in its travel so that the computer knows if you are steering in a turn and that the car's not reacting and the VSC tries to apply single brakes in a manner to help turn the car based on what the steering input is requesting. There are other sensors involved in telling the computer what the car is doing. There is a sensor on the rear package shelf that senses what the car is doing with regard to inertia, for example. This sounds frustrating. The factors are: it happens when turning to the right; it reacts to flexing/moving the chassis parts left and right; it happens only when braking. The connectors to the wheel speed sensors are flexed along with the wiring when turning. Does it happen turning to the left? The streering wheel position sensor also is giving inputs during that time and is being moved when you move the wheel left and right. The wheel bearing is also being changed in position during the turn and is taking forces differently than normal. The brake pads and caliper and rotor are involved because you're braking along with the ABS/traction control system. A loose/worn wheel bearing could be letting the rotor and hub move relative to the wheel speed sensor. There's an air gap size that's needed there. If it become greater than it should be the sensor would lose its ability to read correct the wheel speed. It could be thinking the wheel ir turning faster than it should and apply that one brake to slow down the wheel--just like if it were slipping on ice. I'm not an expert on these systems and I've read a lot of people on forums working on problems, but not quite like yours. Sometimes replacement wheel bearings have been a problem. New isn't always right. Stick with name quality brand if a wheel bearing is indicated. If you work on your own car, I'd jack up the wheel and move the wheel 3 and 9 o'clock and see if you get looseness and do the same at 12 and 6. Don't move the steering links when you're testing and don't count the ball joint movement that may occur when jacked up. Then do the same on the left side. If there's a difference in amount, then I'd start thinking wheel bearing.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Apr 12, 2008 5:41 am)
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Replying to: fatguyinaz (Apr 14, 2008 7:22 am) replaced hubs replace ABS control twice replace computer once unable to reproduce systems 3 times even though the car once went home with the mechanic over 100 miles away if anyone has an answer please email me it or for my phone number to tell me it and I will pay for the answer. I only have 3000 miles left on my warranty and want to fix it once and for all |
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