Last post on Sep 03, 2012 at 6:01 PM
You are in the Buick Park Avenue
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Buick Park Avenue, Sedan
#396 of 519 On-star deactivation
Sep 03, 2007 (6:43 am)
My wife's 2002 Park Avenue came with analog On-star and will be deactivated at first of next year. Since it can't be upgraded we checked into trading, she decided not to do that. Since the on star has a GPS in side the onstar, I wanted to try to salvage it and hook it up to an old laptop.
My only problem is I don't know it is located.Could you help me in finding the on-star unit location in 2002 Buick Park avenue.
#397 of 519 Re: On-star deactivation [epb]
Sep 03, 2007 (7:18 am)
I knew there were articles about doing this.
Search the web for "use onstar gps laptop."
Note the PopSci article says to be sure your car does not REQUIRE the VIU to be present. That sounds like it's integrated into some cars.
I don't recommend or encourage this. I'm concerned you'll run into a quirk and have a major problem. But I supplied a link with a caveat to you.
#398 of 519 Re: 99 Park Avenue Problem with lights [wwstibich]
Sep 12, 2007 (3:23 am)
It could possibly be the headlight switch, but it's more likely a fault with the Lamp Control Module, I think. Even if you leave the headlights on, the LCM will shut off power to the headlight switch after a few minutes, at least on my 97 Ultra.
Before these malfunctions started, did your headlamps turn on by themselves when it gets dark? Many (perhaps all) PA's have an automatic headlamp system, but it only works when the ignition is on.
There also could be an electrical fault in the ignition switch that is making the LCM think the ignition is on when it's not, thereby turning on the headlights when it gets dark (if you have the auto headlamps).
#399 of 519 Re: 99 Park Avenue Problem with lights [97ultra]
Sep 12, 2007 (4:33 am)
Thanks for the reply. The headlights have always turned on automatically when dark. It's just that every so often when the car is parked and turned off they "flicker" on/off.
We did notice, but only for a while, that when driving during daylight that there was a loud "clicking" sound. I did find that by playing with the light switch it went away. I did not put the "clicking" and the light problem together until recently.
Last week I did replace the light switch. So far it's working great, but, it has always been an intermittent problem.
If the problem returns I've try the light control module.
Thanks again for responding.
#400 of 519 Re: fuel gauge problem.... help... [441bikenut]
Oct 02, 2007 (6:51 am)
I have a 2000 PA and had the fuel gauge spin around and stick at the stop. After several calls and sticker shock from estimates to drop the tank and replace the pump/sending unit to replacing the instrument cluster. I came to the forum. I was reluctant to drilling a hole in the dash to try and manually adjust the needle. I read an entry about the use of a magnet. It worked like a charm and saved me well over $700. I took several magnets from the refrigerator and held them near the cover over the gauge...and voila...no more problem. I also added a dose of Lucas fuel treatment to the tank just as an extra precaution. Thanks for the tip!!!
#401 of 519 96 buick park avenue transmission problem
Oct 30, 2007 (7:34 am)
I noticed my car was sounding as if it was bogging down when i gave it gas and would hardly go. I did a transmission service on it, but it still is doing the same thing. After I changed the fluid and filter it did seem better at first. I went about 75000 miles without have the transmission serviced. Could it be the pc solenoid valve is getting clogged or something else or is the transmission possibly not good. The car has 145000 miles on it. I also noticed that there was a sound coming from the motor. As I looked for the sound I noticed it was coming from inside the engine at the air intake. I think I also here tapping in the engine but I know the A/C compressor is no good and it also makes a tapping sound also so it is hard to tell where the tapping sound is coming from in the engine. I think it might be the lifters.
#402 of 519 Paint problem on 1994 Park Avenue
Nov 13, 2007 (9:14 am)
This car is painted in Ruby Red and overall is in very good condition, save a couple of scruffy spots. How should one correct and protect these faded areas? I assume the clear coat is gone and it appears the red pigment is going as well. Any suggestions? Thanks.
#403 of 519 Re: fuel gauge problem.... help... [ann16]
Dec 09, 2007 (6:38 pm)
For another experience, happened on my 98 after I had replaced the starter. Tried several magnets, even went to Northern Tool and tried their 300 lb magnet, but it wouldn't go around. I didn't want to drill in the gauge cover so I removed the cover and flipped it back over by hand. Mine was not a sealed unit as some have replied. Took about 20 minutes and a small 1/4" drive socket (maybe 6 or 7 mm).
0) disconnect battery
1) remove left Instrument Panel endcap - it pops off with a little pull
2) remove left IP accessory trim plate - woodgrain piece to the left of steering column, pulls off with gentle prying
3) remove right IP accessory trim plate - woodgrain piece to the right of steering column, pulls off with gentle prying (may need to disconnect wiring connectors, or just leave hanging temporarily)
4) Block wheels
5) Put transmission lever in 1st gear
6) Remove IP cluster trim plate fastener from the left IP endcap area (small socket needed)
7) Gently pry the IP cluster trim plate away from dash cluster - this is the piece that frames your dash gauge cluster
8) Remove 4 screws that hold dash cluster in place and pull clear plastic cover away from gauges
9) Flip fuel gauge needle around counter clockwise
10) reinstall in reverse order.
I think you need to have the key turned back off before you reconnect the battery or the problem may re-occur.
Sorry if I added too much detail for this forum, I don't know what the norm is and just wanted to relate my experience.
#404 of 519 Re: fuel gauge problem.... help... [bowfan]
Dec 09, 2007 (7:19 pm)
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE
Do yourself a favor. Drill a 1/4" hole through the cover of panel, just below fuel guage. Insert straightened paper clip and manually rotate needle. Go to hardware store and in the isle where all the pull out trays of screws and fun stuff, you will find 1/4" black plastic plug that will snap into hole you drilled. It becomes invisible. You will have this problem again, guaranteed
#405 of 519 Re: fuel gauge problem.... help... [smallbites]
Dec 15, 2007 (1:18 pm)
Wow, do you also break off a piece of your car window when you lock the keys in it and repair / hide damage later?
You're saying it's better to drive maybe 15-20 mins each way to the hardware store, obtain rubber plug and maybe a drill bit, spend a little more on gas and end up with a 'invisible' plugged hole in your dash?
Take a close look at this cluster pic of a BPA on eBay, look at the XL view pic #23.
Looks like this drill repair job cracked, is about 3" long and not as invisible as you describe. I'm sure with the right bit and time spent it may be 'less' visible, tho not 'invisible'. Maybe this person was unlucky or unskilled at drilling in cramped quarters.
Why not do it the right way (apparently several ways are non-destructive), save time, money, and leave the gauge cover intact ( 'invisible')? If you have a small socket set, you are good to go in 20 minutes.
Mine has not re-occured, fwiw