Last post on Jun 10, 2013 at 8:03 AM
You are in the Chrysler LHS
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler LHS, Sedan
Mar 10, 2002 (7:18 am)
Wheel vibration, at least in my case, was caused by out-of-round and/or warped brake rotors. This was caused by the fact that the rotors are not sufficiently thick enough for most braking. If you are a heavy braker, I have found that the current-day rotors warp very easily.
But this is true of most modern cars that I have owned lately. My Merc's were extremely bad on front end vibration while braking due this very thing.
In the case of the LHS, ('94 and '99), I have found that light application of the brakes, applied steadily, keeps the rotors unwarped since not as much immediate heat on the rotors is generated that way. Of course, an emergency stop will require heavy application, so you do what you must. And you'll probably feel vibratiions for a while, depedent upon whether or not the rotor will recover during normal braking. If not, they'll have to be replaced. Lathing them true generally does not work well on Chryslers.
Years ago, it used to be the proper braking method to pump them for better application. Now with modern anti-lock braking, STEADY (not pumping) brake application is better and the way to go. Warped brakes caused similar front end problems on my '94 LHS, not the rack. The '99 running gear is not drastically different. This was usually evident when applying the brakes.
If your front vibrations occur when braking, I suggest you change your braking procedure from pumping to steady application as lightly as you can to stop the car where and when you want.
Regarding corrosion on the LHS wheels, I'm sure that your winter environment and anti-ice/snow salts in Buffalo are probably contributing much to this. I have almost 42K on mine (had it since 4/98), no corrosion or anything. If I lived where you do, I'd be sure to hose salt off the wheels after each exposure to the streets, if at all possible, during winter. If any car washes are open, they should be able to do the same thing.
Regarding sticking windows, it is common with the LH body. Hold down the window button and smack the glass near the top with your palm. The windows will retract in a bit. The problem is that wax from car washes and heat from summer temperatures glue the windows to the seals. Try also wiping down the top edges of all glass, keep it clean; then wipe thru the seals with silicon sprayed on a cloth and clean out the channels. Works fine.
BTW, I'm 73, am on my 61st car since my first new one in 1949 (1950 Buick Special) and have never had to have a steering rack replaced. :^)))
Mar 10, 2002 (8:04 am)
"BTW, I'm 73, am on my 61st car since my first new one in 1949 (1950 Buick Special) and have never had to have a steering rack replaced. :^)))"
When I had my Christine, the dealer replaced my rack and pinion steering rack and the power steering pump to "fix" the left pull!! LOL.... Naturally, it didn't fix it because that wasn't the problem. It was defective Goodyear tires that Goodyear replaced for me at NO cost at 11,000 miles! NO problem with the pull after that!
I wonder how many racks have been replaced on LH cars since 1999 that have NOT solved the customer's problem, but has cost Chrysler a pretty penny. If I could only be a FLY on the wall in Auburn Hills! )
Mar 10, 2002 (9:20 pm)
BTW - I had the Goodyear Eagles that were original equipment replaced at about 12,000 miles. And that didn't solve the alignment problem. I am now riding on Yokohama Avid T4s and they are great!!
#859 of 1409 Just Checking in...
Mar 19, 2002 (11:47 am)
The winter is just about over I hope (it still snows every 2nd day). I've put over 15,000 miles on my 99 since I bought it in November. Still gives a great comfy ride.
I also had the Rack replaced when I bought it, but for legitimate reasons - the front end would bang constantly with every bump and every turn. The replacement fixed that problem, but did nothing for the vibration between 55 and 65, and for the severe pulling to the left.
That problem was solved with Michelins.
Great ride and no problems since.
Apr 26, 2002 (11:40 am)
bb-lhs-2k: I also have a mysterious clunk in the front end of my 2001 LHS. Mine is on the right-front side only, and it occurs whenever the right-front wheel hits some sort of bump while turning left. The dealer says that everything is tight and looks okay. They HAVE been able to reproduce the noise; they just can't fix it.
Mostly it's just an annoying clunk, but sometimes it sounds as if the entire wheel has been ripped off.
The last time I had it in, they suspected the sway-bar, and tightened the bolts. But, it made no difference.
ottowrkr - is there someplace above the dealer level I can escalate this problem to? It's been going on since the car was new.
#861 of 1409 Joelis..re: Michelin tires
Apr 26, 2002 (2:57 pm)
Which Michelin tires did you put on? Thanx
Apr 26, 2002 (9:54 pm)
datafusion- tell the dealer to check the sway bar links.They tend to make a clunk whem going over bumps and when tight they look ok, but once the nuts that hold them in place are removed you see lots of movement. Also check the tierod ends and also the links and bolts that attach to the rack and pinion at the back of the engine at the firewall .As for going higher than the dealer ,sorry cant help you . Ask to take the dealers service manager out for a drive and drive the car so it makes the clunk sound. Hope this helps
#863 of 1409 datafusion....
Apr 27, 2002 (7:40 am)
Sorry to hear you have the same clunk, it's very annoying, especially on colder days, it's louder. It's pretty consistent now, but I've given up on trying to find it, the dealer doesn't know what's going on, and I don't have a lot of time to spend dealing with it. So I just learned to ignore it, unless the noise gets worse or the steering doesn't feel right.
By the way, I've mentioned to them what Ottowrkr said, and they found no problems (supposedly) with the sway bar links, tierod ends or the rack and pinion. What worries me is that they will magically find the problem in a few months, when my Warranty runs out (I'm at 32k miles). Good Luck.
Apr 28, 2002 (10:47 am)
try another dealer.
#865 of 1409 Correct p/n for 2000 LHS headlamps
Apr 28, 2002 (5:11 pm)
Today I confirmed my thoughts about the owners manual listing incorrect bulb types for the 2000 LHS. I removed the front fascia today to replace the front grill that was ruined by the attachment method used to mount the front license plate bracket. Since the headlamps could be removed with the fascia off I found the following lamps used in the front:
Actual - 9006 (aka HB4)
Listed in owners manual - 9006XS (aka HB4A)
Actual - 9005XS (aka HB3A)
Listed in owners manual - 9005 (aka HB3)
Actual - 9040
Listed in owners manual - H3
I believe the H3 is a carry over from the '99 which somebody stated that their '99 actually has H3's, do not know for sure.