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Sedans Chrysler LHS Chrysler LHS
1361 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 8:56 PM
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I have a new Problem with my 94 Chrysler LHS. Air conditioning doesnt work and the air panel (where the temp shows) will not come on either. The power windows stopped working at the same time. The air bag light and the ABS light on the instrument panel are steady on as well. I have checked all the fuses and they are all good. what can I do next?   
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ok here goes. I bought this car from a friend for my wife, they drove the car 80 miles to deliver it. I cleaned it up and gave to her as a B-day present. first time she drove it she got about 15 miles and it overheated, the radiator had cracked. I installed a used radiator that was in real nice condition that had to have been replaced because it WAS NOT a mopar radiator. Filled it with coolant, opened the little air bleed on the engine. Let it sit and run, took a good while to slowly come up to temp (was only 45 degree's outside) the fans cycled a couple times, all was good. Went and put some gas in it, and decided to run to the next town, 7 miles at hwy speed, temp was great until about half way back, then shot up to hot. While I was sitting waiting for it to cool off I found a new t-stat in the glove box, made me wonder if this was a pre-existing issue. I got the car home and changed the T-stat, filled with coolant, let it warm up, cycled the fans, took it for a ride, stayed closer to home, slower speeds, 30 to 40 mph. temp was fine, hit the hwy from a side road, 2 miles into town, mile and a half at hwy speed temp started to climb, rolled into town and pulled over. popped the hood quick, coolant bottle was boiling away, intake plenum was warm, but cool enough the lean on with your hand, and reaching through the cooling fan blades the radiator was ice cold. Anyone have this problem? Water pump? Air in the system cavitating? I'm hoping not a head gasket, but also thinking its NOT a head gasket based on the lenght of time it takes to get up to operating temp idling, no steam cloud out the back, and temp does not emediately start to climb when you start to drive the car, takes a few miles...
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Replying to: jrscars (Nov 30, 2009 6:34 am) The other possibility is that your used radiator is scaled up. Checking for exhaust gasses in the coolant is you first step and should have been checked for after you changed the radiator.
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Replying to: tuscanskipper (Nov 30, 2009 6:52 am) |
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Replying to: tuscanskipper (Nov 30, 2009 6:52 am) with it boiling away I put the CO2 snffer to work making sure not to suck up any coolant, only the steam vapor... no signs of exhaust, shut the car off and the engine cooled quickly enough to empty the funnel into the engine, still steaming like crazy, so I put the rubber tip of the sniffer right in the bottom of the funnel so I know all it was sniffing was coolant steam, still no exhaust... which makes me a happy camper in that I dont have to tear into the engine. So, either that nice clean looking used radiator is plugged up, or the water pump isnt circulating. I'll run a garden hose through the radiator when I pull the front covers off to change the water pump.
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Replying to: jrscars (Dec 01, 2009 6:03 am) Good news about the exhaust gasses. One other thing you have to correctly orientate the thermostat. As in those vehicles if the thermostat is not rotated correctly it impedes water flow.
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Replying to: tuscanskipper (Dec 01, 2009 6:39 am)
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Replying to: jrscars (Dec 02, 2009 5:49 am) When you drain the water next time and refill, make sure the heater is full on, as otherwise you will never get free of air locks. |
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Replying to: tsurnick (Nov 18, 2009 7:04 am)
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Replying to: tsurnick (Dec 03, 2009 8:45 pm) I have also seen reports that this problem can be caused by a grounding block behind the dash going bad. Strange as it seems, this is a problem that could cost more than the car is worth to sort out and fix. I would start with the ignition switch and see what you find. |
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