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Chevrolet Cavalier

2160 messages,  Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 1:52 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Cavalier Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Cavalier, Sedan


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#2136 of 2160
Re: 98 cavalier 2.4l coolant leakage [bubba38] by gonogo
Sep 02, 2008 (8:16 am)
Reply

Replying to: bubba38 (Aug 31, 2008 10:53 am)

It has a chain, tool needed to keep cams in time. The pump is driven by the timing chain, so valve timing needs to preserved or bent valves.
Have it done by some one that has done the job before. It is not a cheap job, the front engine cover needs to come off.
#2137 of 2160
Leaking windows by jam14
Sep 11, 2008 (8:32 pm)
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I am a Camaro person I have two Z-28’s however, I just acquired a 1989 Cavalier the window channels are in bad shape. Is there anyone that still sales replacement window seals for this car?
#2138 of 2160
Cavilers Reliable??? by makigrl
Sep 19, 2008 (10:59 pm)
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How do the Caviler and Pontiac Sunfires fair reliability wise? Are there a lot problems with these cars? Is the Caviler or Sunfire any more reliable than a Pontiac Grand Am. It seems like with many of these older GM cars from the 90's and to around 2005 from the reviews I have seen they are not reliable. The cars that were reliable were mostly GM's Midsized and Larger cars. Like all Buick's were reliable, The Grand Prix, Pontiac Bonneville, Chevy Impala, Chevy Monte Carlo, Chevy Lumina, etc. I got the impression with the Caviler it would not be a good car to be in an accident. The bumper looks like it would fall off in a Head on collision. I would get Ford Escort cause its more reliable but I get same feeling as a Caviler. Not a very well built car that is made of plastic and I wouldn't feel very safe in an accident.
#2139 of 2160
Re: Cavilers Reliable??? [makigrl] by slackerman
Sep 21, 2008 (5:15 pm)
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Replying to: makigrl (Sep 19, 2008 10:59 pm)

makigrl,
 
I have a 1996 Pontiac Sunfire convertible with a 2.4L engine, 5-speed manual, and 130,000 miles (OK, 129,990. It'll hit 130,000 tomorrow). In my 12 years of ownership (OK, Oct 4th it'll be 12 years) I've had to replace the power window on the drivers side. That was partly my fault for closing the door with the window halfway down. The AC required a major fix and I've had some oil leaks and a few other problems. The most costly was a new top. I'm still on the original clutch (although it's starting to slip and the car has recently developed a hesitation). Does that make the car more or less reliable than the norm? I don't know, but my neighbors have gone through their Japanese cars faster than I've gone through mine.
Would I buy a used Sunfire/Cav to replace my car? No. Used G5s and Cobalts should be better. But what it comes down to is the old American small cars can hold their own with the imports.
As far as safety goes, the larger the car, the safer you should be. That's physics, not nationality.
Good Luck.
#2140 of 2160
2002 Chevy Cavalier gauges went out by abrownson
Oct 18, 2008 (9:25 am)
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I have a 2002 Chevy Cavalier that the Gauges went out on I can't tell how much gas I have, what speed I am going or the milage if anyone know what i need to do to fix the problem I would appreciate the help Thanks.
#2141 of 2160
Re: overheat [nooklearwinter] by hash1
Nov 22, 2008 (12:34 pm)
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Replying to: nooklearwinter (Jul 17, 2008 12:51 pm)

sounds like wrong thermistat, go back to dex-cool
#2142 of 2160
Re: ABS 10/97 Cavalier [clayso] by jackguitar
Nov 23, 2008 (8:56 am)
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Replying to: clayso (Nov 12, 2005 1:31 pm)

Hello, I have the same problem. Did you find out why you were not getting any fluid or pressure out of the rear lines at the master cylinder?
Thanks
#2144 of 2160
Re: Dome light and key / headlights chime don't work [themoose1] by bowler218
Jan 21, 2009 (7:57 am)
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Replying to: themoose1 (Jun 06, 2005 2:52 pm)

did you ever find out the problem
#2145 of 2160
Re: Headlight problem [chevycav03] by pc8051
Feb 07, 2009 (1:49 pm)
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Replying to: chevycav03 (Jun 29, 2008 2:14 pm)

I know exactly what your problem is. The ground wire for the low beams is either corroding...or completely corroded off. Take off the passenger side head light assembly. Follow the wiring harness down from the head light bulb till it meets with the main wiring harness. Keep following the harness in the direct towards the drivers side. Can't remember if the main head light bulb wires are the last to join the main harness or if there is one more in between but at the last joint measure 17 cm towards the drivers side. Mark that point. With a sharp exacto knife cut into the wiring harness very carefully. As you are doing this, don't be surprised when you see green powder coming out. If you do..then that is definitely where your problem lies. There is a splice in the wiring harness at that point. It corrodes and eventually the wire breaks. Solder in a new piece and re-rap with good electrical tape. All will be well again. How do I know this....It's a very common problem. I have had to fix mine twice. Its easy to do...less than an hours work. Good luck

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