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Subaru Outback VDC

2084 messages, Last post on Jul 31, 2009 at 8:04 AM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: ateixeira (Jul 30, 2007 8:08 am)
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Replying to: snowbelter (Jul 30, 2007 9:04 am)
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Replying to: njjuliano (Aug 08, 2007 2:56 pm) |
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Replying to: otis123 (Feb 28, 2007 11:03 am) I'm in the market for an 01-04 VDC edition Subaru Outback, so the question is very timely for me. Mostly looking at 01-03 years.
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I'm in the market right now for an 01-04 VDC Outback - will post some of the vehicles I found with brief notes and really looking forward to your feedback - in the meantime, wanted to ask in general, would you stay away from 01, 02, 03 or 04 model years for any reason? I read above the 01 had smaller brakes and wondering how much this affects safety performance, and whether these can be replaced with later larger brakes and at what cost in parts and labor. I prefer the 6 cylinder Outback and prefer the VDC edition. Second preference would be the LL Bean H6.
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Replying to: mountainwalker (May 14, 2008 8:57 am) All I do know is I went to Power Slot Frozen [Cryo] Rotors and ceramic pads and never looked back. It solved my problem of warped rotors - a common problem on many heavy cars...
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| My Black LLBean has 118K - born Jan. 01, delivered Feb. 01. It has been a very reliable car and is still as tight as the day I bought it... Will probably keep it a few more years... | |
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Replying to: mountainwalker (May 14, 2008 9:02 am) |
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Replying to: otis123 (May 14, 2008 9:13 am) |
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Hi All, Thanks to this forum’s help, I’ve narrowed our Outback search to an H6 VDC edition, roughly 01-05 model years, and would appreciate your feedback on the following VDC vehicles we’re evaluating. I’d like to send the best 1-2 options for a thorough garage inspection right away. Which are the best 1-2 values to send for inspection? Which would you be cautious about/stay away from? All are supposed to be in good cosmetic condition, but can’t be sure about the mechanics until an inspection, and the cost of inspections can start to add up. Arranged in order of year and asking price, includes mileage and KBB and Edmunds estimates based on temporary assumption of car’s condition based on seller description (before I have inspected). A) 2001, Miles 130,000, Asking $8,000, Dealer seller. KBB $10,875, Edmunds $10,528, assuming good condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Concerned the big delta between the asking price and KBB and Edmunds could mean something is seriously wrong. B) 2001, Miles 82,740, Asking $12,000, Individual seller. KBB $12,755, Edmunds $13,168, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller claims that car was always dealer serviced. C) 2001, Miles 60,680, Asking $12,400, Individual seller. KBB is $14,170 Edmunds $13,958 assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller says he bought from previous owner (a son who inherited from father and didn’t need the car). Seller says he buys a few cars/year, cleans them up for resale to make a few bucks. Condition notes - small ding on driver’s side door, tiny paint scratch over rear bumper that was painted over, a little scuffing on outside of driver’s seat. D) 2003, Miles 74,800, Asking $14,000, Dealer seller. KBB $14,505, Edmunds $16,176, assuming good condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. E) 2003, Miles 65,000, Asking $15,000, Dealer seller. KBB $15,730, Edmunds $16,188, assuming good condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. F) 2001, Miles 61,500, Asking $16,000. Dealer Seller. KBB $14,110 and Edmunds $13,849, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Looks WAY overpriced. G) 2003, 46,000 miles, $17,000, Dealer seller. KBB $19,315 and Edmunds $18,186, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Has OnStar system (though could care less about OnStar).
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