Last post on Dec 06, 2011 at 12:51 PM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
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Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#5259 of 11746 Persistent breaking vibration
Apr 10, 2002 (11:33 am)
I purchased a used 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback 36,000 miles ago. Shortly after purchasing it I noticed a vibration only when breaking between 45 and 35 mph. At the dealers suggestion I've had the disks turned more than once, pads replaced, and finally all for disk replaced. The vibration improves a bit after each procedure, but always returns to the same level as before. If it's normal for the vehicle then the dealer is taking me to the cleaners. I also the car aligned and purchased new tires to see if that would help. The Subaru mfg rep can only suggest turning the disks again. Anyone else solved a similar problem.
Apr 10, 2002 (1:17 pm)
Are they overtorqueing the lug nuts when they install the wheels?
The hardware can't be causing repeated problems like that. They must be doing something wrong.
#5261 of 11746 01 OB wagon spoiler
Apr 10, 2002 (1:32 pm)
Has anyone installed this themselves? I'm curious as to how delicate this install is going to be -- if there's a good chance I'll screw my car up doing it, I may let the pros do it. SubaruParts.com had them on clearance for around $100 and I couldn't pass it up. The directions look pretty straight forward, but I just wanted "real world" exprience. Any input would be appreciated! Thanks,
Apr 10, 2002 (1:40 pm)
One person on these threads ended up with a dent in the sheet metal, though I can't remember if it was DIY or dealer-installed.. I do think you have to drill into the metal, so there is some risk.
Apr 10, 2002 (2:54 pm)
Those sheetmetal dents are what I'm worried about -- the instructions indicate that (4) 1/8 inch holes must be drilled (after using a SHARP center punch to mark the areas). It warns that if a dull center punch is used, you could dent the panel...that's what worries me...it's really a simple install from the looks of it, but I don't like the prospect of denting the metal. Hmmm...I may drop by a body shop to see how much they might charge to do it.
#5264 of 11746 Dents - Yes
Apr 10, 2002 (6:45 pm)
I had my spoiler added by the dealer and ended up with dents (probably only noticeable by me) but they're definitely there. Sharp punch or dull, it's probably going to dent the panel when you pound on the punch. Even if you're careful when you make your punch mark, there's still a chance of adding dents if you put too much downward pressure on the drill while it's cutting thru the sheetmetal.
Suggestion: place masking tape over where the holes are to be located. Mark the hole locations on the tape. If your drill bits are worn, splurge on a single high-quality bit. Having a good sharp bit would be critical, as you don't want to have to bear down to cut the sheetmetal. Use a variable speed drill so you can start the hole very slowly to prevent the bit from wandering. (You could even start with smaller pilot holes - smaller bits wander less). Follow these steps and you'll do a better job than the jamoke who installed my spoiler.
#5265 of 11746 Dents? Oh boy, metalworking!
Apr 11, 2002 (10:18 am)
I can be an idiot at times, but I can speak with a bit of confidence on this subject! I installed the grab bar and rear deflector on my OB and it was fairly routine. "Routine" means of course that the templates and instructions were either inaccurate or incomplete. If you have questions about the grab bar just ask, but with respect to the spoiler, I'll assume it mounts more-or-less like the deflector. So, you will probably need a "threaded insert tool", which may - right there - cause you to give up. You MAY be able to borrow one, or you can buy one at a good auto parts store for about $75, or you can order a cheapo/perfectly functional one from Harbor Freight Tools for about $10. I would do my drilling with split-point drills, or better yet, a Unibit (fairly inexpensive at any hardware store). I agree, use a variable speed drill. A sharp automatic center punch (set low) works fine to mark the point where you will drill, just don't make it deeper than necessary. "Dry fit" everything each step of the way. Finally, use a high quality silicone sealant around every exposed metal surface before you put it all together. Piece of cake (fruit cake, with plenty of nuts): took me about 45 minutes.
Funny thing, once you drill through the skin of your OB (successfully), you feel, for better or worse, that its really, truly YOUR car.
Enjoy the anxiety,
Apr 11, 2002 (10:18 am)
I appreciate the suggestions...I'll take a look at the spoiler when it comes and decide if I'm up to the task.
#5267 of 11746 Paint Question
Apr 11, 2002 (10:58 am)
Does anyone know if Subaru sells the Titanium Pearl paint (for the lower portion of the OB) in a spray? I still need to paint the front tow hook bumper cover (FTHBC?) and thought I might be able to DIY.
Apr 11, 2002 (11:06 am)
I doubt it. I bought a touch-up can of the stuff for my dad.
According to Pat, body shop supply places can put any color in a spray can for you, though. There is a color code in your door jamb they can use to get factory specs to mix it right.