Last post on Dec 06, 2011 at 11:51 AM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
Aug 09, 2001 (7:54 am)
Quite frankly the biggest problem with Subarus is the tendency to overdrive them in bad weather. My repairmen does a number of wheel and steering repairs every winter.
Transmissions are really expensive to fix, recommend changing to synthetic fluids if available, and servicing religiously every 30K Miles.
Change timing belts on schedule, (Subaru makes a new stronger one) and make sure to change the cam and crankshaft seals at the same time to avoid duplicate repairs later (experience talking here).
OEM CV boots don't last much beyond 75,000 miles. One of the few inferior parts on Japanese cars. If left neglected in the winter with a leak, the entire drive axels have to be replaced.
Drain and fill the radiator yearly. It's twice the cost of a domestic radiator replacement.
If you want to use extended oil drains, go to synthetic and change the filters at least every 3,200 miles.
Change air filters often -- especially if you live in a dry climate.
Follow the severe maintenence schedule.
I have a 1991, and it generally still costs only about $600.00 a year in direct repairs and maintenence. This year it was a 120,000 mile checkup, replacement of brake, powersteering, and transmission fluids, and a solenoid.
I realize some of my recommendations may be controversal, but I found out about 8 years ago that the if it aint broke don't fix it philosophy was in the long run a lot more expensive. Like my transmission that had to be overhauled because the fluid was never replaced.
My ole Subie really loves the synthetic oil. Better gas mileage by 1-2 miles per gallon, smoother running, and easier starts.
#2289 of 11746 Costs on the Volvo
Aug 09, 2001 (8:12 am)
I am curious what routine maintence costs such as brakes, machining rotors, oil changes, belts and other "inspections and adjustments" for routine service cost for the Volvo. Can you enlighten me?
I almost got a volvo but fled because of the costs (I knew they were higher but not by how much), I'd love to know the real costs.
Aug 09, 2001 (8:40 am)
When we bought our Bean in March we paid l little over 27k for it, and at the time I carefully considered every other wagon out there. Without going into great detail I found that the Volvo was a little over 10k more than acomparably equipped Bean. The seats in the Volvo were very good tho and I would dearly love to have them. What I find with the sube seats is that in a relatively short time (1 hour), a hard spot forms right under the bone of each cheek. I didn't try the cloth seat model, because we like all the bells and whistles, but I have a feeling they would be better. Anyway I am still trying to find that magic adjustment that will eliminate this problem.
Let me ramble just a little more. We have 7500 miles on the Bean now and I can't believe how this car handles. I'm not a professional driver by any means but I have had some pretty fair handling cars including a 911 porsche and a new 1963 3000MkII Austin Healy ( see I really am old), and I would put this car up against any of them. I can't explain it but there is just something about the rock solid stability of this car. I loved our 91 Honda wagon because of it's wonderful reliability but in the handling department it was a clunker compared to this car. I can understand why people get in trouble in winter. If I'm not careful I may get in trouble in summer. I'm of the opinion that if everyone had to drive a car for 3 months before making up their mind there would be twice as many OB's on the road, and that's saying something around here since about every 10th car is already a Sube. Guess I'm beginning to sound like a SOA rep so I'll quit.
#2291 of 11746 Mr. Detailer....great detail
Aug 09, 2001 (10:24 am)
Would you therefore recommend buying a third party warranty on the car? Is about 1300 for 5 years bumper-to-bumper on a 99 Legacy. I know I'll get about 2 years powertrain when I buy it, and dealer may throw in 90 days bumper to bumper.
Actually...the warranty probably won't cover about half of the things you mentioned (regular wear, services, fluids, timing belt replacement)...still would you recommend a warranty?
#2292 of 11746 Concerning Volvo costs
Aug 09, 2001 (10:38 am)
It wasn't so much the costs of the services (Oil change, 30k, 60k), it was all the other things they found while doing them. I never had a just plain old service call to the Volvo dealer. The oil change would be 30 bucks, but the turbo oil leak they found was $200. I also remember that my 60K service was $1775; I don't remember all the details, but the bottom line will forever be etched in my mind. Before I traded it in at 78000 miles, an independent Volvo mechanic projected that over the next 30K miles, I should expect to replace the evaporator ($1200), rear seal ($1200), probably some serious transmission work and the radiator. The engine seems bulletproof, but when you continually keep adding everything else up, it got very expensive although I never really considered it unreliable.
Actually, changing the oil at my Toyota dealer on my Supra was actually a few bucks more than on the Volvo, but that is all it ever was. The entire car was bullet proof. That is what I am hoping far on the Outback; so far so good.
Aug 09, 2001 (10:51 am)
IMO today's cars should go at least 100K without any expense outside of basic maintenance. Toyota does it, Subaru appears to do it and so does Honda. Why can't other auto manuf. do it?
#2294 of 11746 Hundais and Isuzus do it too
Aug 09, 2001 (10:58 am)
But that's cause they are warrantied to do it
Aug 09, 2001 (11:19 am)
is coming on strong. I see many Santa Fes around.
Aug 09, 2001 (11:29 am)
Just my 2 cents. I have a '96 Volvo 850 bought new and a "00 Outback bought new. NO comparison! Sube wins hands down. Better ride, less expensive maintenance, better fuel economy, better off the line response, etc. Also Sube service/maintenance costs are much more reasonable and parts are more readily available for dyi. I do agree with that the Volvo seats are more comfortable (if only I could swap them - I would have the perfect car)
#2297 of 11746 Rambling thought on Reliability
Aug 09, 2001 (1:30 pm)
Greg asked the question why all companies don't make cars that can reach 100k miles with minimal repair. They can, but I believe that car companies set values on things that they perceive their customers want and design accordingly. Since the early 80's, Toyota and Honda have emphasized functionality and reliability; American companies: buyer loyalty and lots of options; Volvo: safety and engine durability; Audi/Mercedes/BMW: performance and prestige; Subaru: reliability, all weather, individuality; VW: Not sure
I think Toyota used the name Lexus so they could easily create a new customer value: Luxury and reliability. BMW seems to be adding reliability to their value which, in my opinion, will drive them above the other German automakers. I also believe that today, everybody is starting to expect high reliability.
Just my 2 cents although it's highly possible that I am all wet in my evaluations.