Ask the Car People.SM


Subaru Legacy/Outback

11746 messages,  Last post on Dec 06, 2011 at 12:51 PM

You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback Forum.

What is this discussion about? Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon

Messages Page 1150 of 1175

#11488 of 11746 Re: 2004 Outback Wagon with warped rotors [paisan] by suzyb2

Jul 20, 2007 (7:48 pm)

Replying to: paisan (Jul 19, 2007 3:10 pm)
I appreciate all of the advice. I had the dealership machine the rotors for now (it was at their expense). There was a pulsating when I would apply the brakes, so there was something wrong. I am kind of in a tight situation being in less then a week I'm leaving for a trip to Canada. There will be well over 1,500 miles put on my Subaru in about a week. I do plan on buying new rotors in the very near future, I understand that machining them won't last (but needed to do it this time). What is the difference between drilled and slotted rotors vs. non drilled and slotted? And at what pressure do you recommend tightening the lugs

#11489 of 11746 Re: 2004 Outback Wagon with warped rotors [suzyb2] by jfl

Jul 20, 2007 (11:45 pm)

Replying to: suzyb2 (Jul 20, 2007 7:48 pm)
"At their expense..." They did it for free? Are you a regular customer of theirs?
 
Let us know if you have any other issues with the car in the coming months. I never like it when a dealer does something for "free".

#11490 of 11746 Re: 2004 Outback Wagon with warped rotors [jfl] by suzyb2

Jul 21, 2007 (1:03 pm)

Replying to: jfl (Jul 20, 2007 11:45 pm)
I am a regular customer of theirs. It's the dealership where I bought my car. They did all the work for free. Hell, they even came to my house to get the car so I wouldn't have to sit there for hours with my two young kids. I made a huge stink before I left the shop after they first told me. I also asked for them to give me print outs of all my service work because I was taking my business elsewhere. They didn't want that, so they called Subaru and got it approved as a "warranty" repair. Like I said, I have all intentions of changing my rotors on my own, but after my trip. I know that these machined rotors won't last. I still would like to know the difference with slotted or drilled rotors vs. non slotted or drilled. Thanks.

#11491 of 11746 Re: 2004 Outback Wagon with warped rotors [suzyb2] by paisan

Jul 21, 2007 (5:24 pm)

Replying to: suzyb2 (Jul 21, 2007 1:03 pm)
Unless you plan on tracking your car ALOT or Caging it and racing it, then you don't need the slotted and/or drilled.
 
I actually wrote a carspace guide on the differences....
 
http://www.carspace.com/guides/Performance-Brake-Upgrades
 
-mike

#11492 of 11746 Re: Engine problems 96 outback [mistershake] by eawheels

Jul 21, 2007 (5:45 pm)

Replying to: mistershake (Jul 20, 2007 2:04 pm)
I had a very similar problem as yours (no check engine light blinking though). Initially I took it to a repair shop and they flushed the engine and added a "fuel system treatment" to the gas tank. The problem is that various engine components develope a build up of carbon. This solved the problem for about a year. I have since, whenever I have the problem, added a fuel system treatment by the name of Greased Lightning (can be found at Shucks) with excellent results. There are other similar products out there. A once a year treatment usually prevents this problem. This treatment cleans the entire fuel system among other things. Hope this helps. Good luck.

#11493 of 11746 Re: 2004 Outback Wagon with warped rotors [suzyb2] by just_phil

Jul 21, 2007 (7:13 pm)

Replying to: suzyb2 (Jul 20, 2007 7:48 pm)
I don't know the exact numbers for your car, but the lug nuts torque should be around 75-85 ft-lbs. The lug nuts should be tightened by hand using a torque wrench. There's something called a torque stick that can be used with an air gun, but I've heard they are not very accurate.

#11494 of 11746 Re: Engine problems 96 outback [mistershake] by mistershake

Jul 22, 2007 (2:18 pm)

Replying to: mistershake (Jul 20, 2007 2:04 pm)
I've tried fuel injector cleaner twice and dry gas, but to no avail, i should have mentioned that before.

#11495 of 11746 Re: Engine problems 96 outback [mistershake] by xwesx

Jul 23, 2007 (10:26 am)

Replying to: mistershake (Jul 22, 2007 2:18 pm)
It does sound like the knock sensor might be the most likely problem. This car is a manual, correct? How low is the RPM when this problem occurs? These engines are fairly high revving, and make their power at higher RPMs. If you are bogging down the engine by placing it under load at low RPMs, it forces the engine to retard the timing quite a bit to make up for it.
 
Your first course of action should be to read out the codes and reset CEL. If you leave it on all the time, you never know if/when another code records. At least if you keep a code reader on hand and reset the CEL after it illuminates, you can see if/when a new code is tripped. A simple handheld reader is around $100. Use it a few times and it has already paid for itself.

#11496 of 11746 Re: Engine problems 96 outback [xwesx] by mistershake

Jul 23, 2007 (1:37 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Jul 23, 2007 10:26 am)
Its a standard. it happens at about 2200-2500rpms. how long should a knock sensor last? like i had mentioned it was changed about 1.5 years ago. also would a new pcv valve help? its going to the shop tomorrow to check on the check engine light issue, most likely the rear o2 sensor

#11497 of 11746 Re: Engine problems 96 outback [mistershake] by xwesx

Jul 23, 2007 (1:48 pm)

Replying to: mistershake (Jul 23, 2007 1:37 pm)
I doubt they have a set life, but I would expect 150,000 miles out of one barring any problems that bring about abnormal wear. But, from your symptoms, it sounds somewhat like the car is receiving too much fuel (or not enough air) under those loads. If it came on suddenly, then something changed over night (clog, bad sensor, etc) rather than a more gradual change, like reduced power due to engine wear with high mileage, etc. Replacing normal wear items like PCV valve is a good start; also check to make sure there are no vacuum hoses clogged. My 2.5L '96 had quite a bit of crud in the vacuum lines near the PCV valve at 196K miles. You might consider checking the knock sensor to determine if it is within specifications. Work through the components that are taxed when the engine comes under load.

Messages Page 1150 of 1175

To POST a message, please Sign In.

Advertisement

Browse by Category

Browse by Vehicle
   View All Vehicles

Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
View All Topics

Edmunds Community

Advertisement