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613 messages, Last post on Aug 09, 2009 at 8:13 PM
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Last night was the acid test to determine if the dealership actually fixed the leak. It rained here (D.C. area) like gangbusters for more than twelve hours. Went out today and checked the carpets--no sign of any leaking. So hopefully that'll be that. No more unpleasant surprises and I'll be happy. The ZTW is a well designed and thought out little wagon and drives good too. All I want from here on in is just average (at least)reliability. No Fix Or Repair Daily, thank you.
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My wife has had the steering seize up when making a hard right turn while braking. This has happened to her 3 times. It has happened to me twice now and the last time was last nite. Early this year I asked the dealer to check this and they said there was nothing wrong. After last nite I am very much concerned about the safety of the car (2000 Wagon) and I think I had better trade it. Has anyone else had a similar problem?????? GSD |
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| Mine has the exact same problem! I'm so frustrated in dealing with dealer. Moreover, the second row has constantly water leaking, they still can not fix it till now. Constantly think about trade in. | |
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1.) I heard of a similar case in Germany. This guy had the same problem that the steering seized after a sharp turn. His was a 5 speed. There seems to be a problem with a switch or connector of the clutch pedal that is behind the clutch pedal. This switch can not be properly mounted because of a design flaw. And if this switch/connector falls off it may block the steering column, because it is right beside the steering column. I am not sure if this would also apply to cars with Auto trans. Maybe this switch is there but not used. You may want to check if there is something close to the steering column under the dash that may cause any blockage of the steering wheel. 2.) The leakage problem is a well known problem in Europe as well. That means water leakage on the passenger side. The problem is caused by the black plastic cover around the windshield wipers and the sealing underneath it. (The cover just below the wind screen and the hood.) If this cover is not mounted correctly or the sealing underneath, water is running into the passenger foot compartment. I think it is running through the air duct system since the air inlet for the cabin air and filter box for the not existing cabin air filter is mounted underneath that plastic cover. But I have never heard about a problem with water leakage on the second row. Is it coming through the windows? Or is it coming through the door? If it is coming through the door you may want to check the draining holes in the door. There should be draining holes in the underside of the door. And they need to be free. Not clogged. There is always getting water in the door through the window sealing. And this water is supposed to run off the drainage in the bottom of the door. If this drainage is clogged the water may collect in the door and drain towards the inside of the car and not through the supposed drainage. But this is just a speculation. Stefan |
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| I bought my Focus wagon in 12/00. I loved how it looked and had high hopes....even after numerous recalls and a constant squeal in the rear brakes. Then at 28K I had to replace the front brake rotors. At 30K the passenger side of front seat started to leak when it rained. The dealer said it was a manufacure's defect and a recall and they replaced a part. It still leaked. Sooooo....as of 12/21/03 I am the proud owner of a 2004 Toyota Matrix XR. The Focus was my second and FINAL Ford. I really wanted this car to be the one I hoped it could be....no such luck. | |
| My 2000 Focus Station Wagon stalled at 38000 miles and had to be towed to my Ford Dealer. I was told that their initial finding was that the head gasket has blown up and the computer misfired. Two days before stalling, smoke came out of the vents. I am still waiting for a new engine and Ford don't want to help with a loaner car. They actually asked the dealer to shoulder the cost but they refused since Ford can not supply the engine. | |
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Picked up in AZ end of Sep. Putted around town for a week then flamed up to Overguard with 4 adults + luggage in tow. Poor ZETEC was straining in the mountains with the AC on, but soldiered on. Back to Phoenix, then off to Flagstaff for a couple days, down to Sedona for a couple more and then over the "mountain" to Prescott and back to Phoenix. No probs, great ride, nice and sticky with the 16 inch tires. End of October, road trip to North Dakota. Phoenix to Albuquerque: great cruise, but couldn't get into hotel, due to tanker crash out front. Holiday Inn Express set me up, though. Albq to Colorado Springs: first taste of kinda cold weather, in enemy territory with all the evil bronco fans. CS to Ogalla NB: leaving bronco territory and getting into a nice, clean state like Nebraska was cool. Go big red. Not much for scenery, but weather was pretty nice. Horrid, greasy food in Ogalla (did I mention greasy?) Ogalla to Sioux City: more Nebraska, then rain and cold. Wind picked up the next day driving up to Grand Forks. VERY WINDY and cool. Anyway, a couple months later and the "Silver Bullet" (e-gad, that sounds SOOO Coorsish--"I can't taste my light beer!"...) runs like a top, has a new ski rack for my XC skis and a new cargo net on the way. Installing the block heater was a goat rope, but glad I got that done (I believe it is 1 outside right now...) The 16 inch P6s handle fabulous in the ice/snow (BIG SURPRISE), so no need for snow tires. The heated seats are, well, the heat. Got a couple rattles I need to isolate and fix, but so far, so good (5k miles). I'm out. |
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Have a 2002 SE Wagon with 40k on it, and so far it has been trouble free, and we really enjoy it! Has been a great wagon for my wife and 2 kids. Just found an issue with the License Plate lights below the rear door handle and thought I'd give others a heads-up on it and see if anyone else has the same issue. A friend noticed that both of these lights weren't working a few days ago, and since in Mass. they are required to pass inspection, I checked them out. To pull them out, you slide the units to the left by sticking a screwdriver, or something flat into the right side between the light unit and the molding and pry/push to the left. You then pull them down and out. What I discovered is that BOTH light units were severely corroded, the copper parts covered in green ash and the metal ends on the light bulbs pretty much rusted off. Although there is a rubber gasket around the light unit, apparently water does still get in here somehow. The rubber looks like it isn't thick enough to make an adequate seal. Anyway, to fix this without having to buy new light assemblys, I had to mold replacement pieces from aluminum flashing I had, and then buy new bulbs. I also had to splice new wire connectors to the original wiring as the original connectors were corroded as well. I liberally greased all exposed metal with bulb grease, which I highly recommend to prevent this if it hasn't happened already. I also had to replace the license plate light fuse (#62 on the panel) since it had apparently shorted out at some point during the corrosion process. Anyone who lives in a state where the license plate lights are required to pass inspection may want to check on the condition of yours
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OK, slightly off topic, but loaded up my new XC skis on my factory ski rack (a Yakima) and found a nice patch of fresh powder and skied for a good hour in -4 degree sunny (-20 degree wind chill) NoDak weather today. Deep snow while laying tracks going out, and while most were covered on the way back by the wind, was GRRREAT tracking on the way back. Still have to work to get the ZTW to break loose on the frozen stuff with the Advance Trac & the P6s. Block heater plugged in for tomorrow's adventure--supposed to be a little colder. |
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