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Audi allroad

413 messages,  Last post on Oct 08, 2009 at 10:49 AM

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What is this discussion about? Audi allroad quattro, Wagon


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#383 of 413
significant water damage by maggi
Nov 03, 2008 (8:16 am)
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Help! Our C5 allroad wouldn't shift from park into drive. We tried hitting the brake hard but the shift wouldn't budge. Car was put on a flatbed to the dealer. Dealer said there was rain water which got into the transmission as well as the master brake cylinder. Parts cost will be $3800+, labor obvoiusly much as well.
 
I don't know a lot about cars but for sure the transmission and master brake cylinders are SEALED. We don't see transmission or brake fluid spewing out of them, do we? Then how was mere rain water get in? If water can enter these components, does this mean I cannot drive in the rain ... or take the allroad thru a car wash? What gives? Help!!!
 
Frustrated in Greenwich ...
#384 of 413
Audi Allroad by chipdaly
Nov 03, 2008 (4:20 pm)
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I have a 2002 allroad (99k miles) and have sunk $10,000 (since 85k miles) into it in the past year, includes timing belt ($1,500), 2 front air shocks ($1,800), transmission control module ($1,600, the dame part was $1,350 by itself) amongst other smaller repairs (by small I would say $800 is getting off cheap). I know they say don't sell in a down market, but let me tell you, SELL.
#385 of 413
Re: 2001 allroad: keep or dump? [kjq88] by augustom
Nov 16, 2008 (4:23 am)
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Replying to: kjq88 (Mar 06, 2007 2:29 pm)

You just repaired the two well documented problems of this car, all other issues like timing belt, etc are scheduled maintenance repairs any other car will have, so keep the car and enjoy it for at least another 50k miles with no major repairs.
#386 of 413
Maintanence Issues 03 allroad by hils3
Jan 12, 2009 (2:07 pm)
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I'm purchasing an 03 Allroad with 66k and I am looking for some feedback in regards to maintanence. What should I be concerned with? Timing belt? Air-ride systmen? I would also like to increase the HP, so I'm considering a chip or direct post program and sport bi-pass valves? Any suggestions? thanks
#387 of 413
Re: Maintanence Issues 03 allroad [hils3] by chipdaly
Jan 12, 2009 (4:58 pm)
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Replying to: hils3 (Jan 12, 2009 2:07 pm)

I just sold an Allroad 02 with about 100k. Had to replace: front air shocks ($1,800), timing belt at 85k ($1,500), the transmission control module ($1,650), and a few other things. Good Luck!
#388 of 413
Re: Chipping and gas milage [markcincinnati] by fueledpassion
Jan 25, 2009 (9:31 am)
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Replying to: markcincinnati (Apr 28, 2004 5:45 am)

Dude,
 
"15. Don't "warm up" the engine for more than 30 seconds EVER "
 
DO NOT EVER start driving before 1 minute for NA cars
DO NOT EVER start driving before 2 to 3 minute for turbo / supercharged cars
 
2001 Audi allroad 2.7 BI turbo "chipped" (reflashed ECU) = 80 HP 110 TQ, same driving style 4 to 5 miles MORE per gallon...
 
I drive to my girlfriends school on a weekly basis i use the same gas station every time. before chip i fill up going up then fill up when im back... now with it "chipped" i have 130 miles left to go. so i went from 330 miles PER TANK to 470 MILES PER TANK... and 98% of the drive in on cruise control at ~70/72 MPH
 
As for my sparkplugs, i noticed that at first they were a little rich, thats because more fuel more air. after about 100 miles they were the same as before the reflash. shows the computer had to "learn"... O2 sensors were replaced about 3000 miles before i reflashed it, at the same time i checked over hoses and vacuum leaks. Everything was the same.
 
so yes... the "chip" helps your MPG after your heavy foot becomes a feather again.
 
"10. Use the premium platinum 4 tip spark plugs that are designed for your car "
 
NOT recommended, depending on the car you might have a car with Coil On Plug, or Distributer. with coil on plug i would make sure you get the right temperature plug not if it has more cool looking electrodes. cars with distributers should do the most research, you need to consider things like;
can your car electrical output the right volts.
can your distributor module handle the extra watts
will your ECU correct the timing and wattage needed for these plugs.
 
if your car cant output the right volts then its worse on your ecc.
 
if you want good economy;
replace your fuel filter around 40k miles
get a k&n air filter and clean it ever other oil change
get the right sparkplugs (check forum on your model to see what gets best reviews)
use heat wrap on your intake and headers (hot air = worse air/fuel mix = poor ignition)
replace O2 sensors every 60k miles
use recommended oil for your car and current claimants
replace any leaky oil seals (leak = compression/emissions loss = poor economy)
keep your car clean, clean = less wind drag
inflate your tires 2 to 3 psi less then max (when you drive you will gain up to 5 psi depending on tire temp, keep it a little lower because if you curb your tire or hit a big pot hole you chance deforming the tire)
 
These are the basics to get better economy
 
if you want to get even better economy and better performance then...
 
Cold air intake kit with thermal wrap and isolator box
get headers and use heat wrap on them
relocate the catalytic converter downstream or under the chassis (some cars are like this some have it right by the firewall)
get high flow downpipes
high flow catalytic convertor
figh flow exhaust
upgrade your ignition system or ECU or BOTH depending on your make and model (older cars with distributers and ECU (94ish to 99ish) do both)
upgrade your fuel pump for 10 to 20 % more power
replace injectors with = or > oem (turbo people google it NA people don’t go over 20 to 50 cc over stock)
upgrade your fuel pressure regulator
get larger wheels and lower profile tires
remove all aftermarket body kits and wings
get a wideband air fuel ratio gauge
( and for those who really want to get into it message me)
#389 of 413
allroad Haunted? by Fronz
Jan 27, 2009 (8:56 am)
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Hi,
Just bought a 2002 allroad with 50k miles on it. We have discovered a few issues that hopefully someone on this forum can help us with.
 
1) Front heated seats way too hot. Can't even set over a 2 on the dial. Looks like a burn has occured through the lower section of the seat back. Any advise?
 
2) Air suspension works but it does take 30sec - 2 minutes to adujust. It does however seem to hold. Is this normal?
 
3) Sometimes when I back up for a good distance, a noise like a compressor comes on. It stays on for 15-30 seconds even after I stop the car. Any ideas?
 
Is my car haunted?
 
Any help would be very much appreciated?
 
Tks,
Wally
#390 of 413
Re: allroad Haunted? [Fronz] by fueledpassion
Jan 27, 2009 (12:40 pm)
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Replying to: Fronz (Jan 27, 2009 8:56 am)

As for the Air ride, it should take around that time. lowest to highest 2 mins and 40 some sec.
 
The compressor is located behind the driver side rear wheel, it will come on to maintain your current ride hight. From my understanding when you unlock the car it should lower it self for easy of entry, and when you start the car it will turn on to bring it back to your settings.
 
As for the seats.... i would take that down to audi. Sounds like the switch and or relay might be bad. I know my site on 3 will keep me warm, and on 6 its hot hot, but not to the point i want to ice my butt. And if the seat plastic is melting then you really know you have a problem, could be a short and or a ground problem.
 
(sorry for any typeos on a iphone)
#391 of 413
door panel removal by garthie
Mar 24, 2009 (7:46 am)
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hi, can anyone tell me how to remove the drivers side door panel, I slipped and broke the speaker cover and have a new one but can't figure out how to replace it.
#392 of 413
rusty allroad doors by pedro22
Mar 27, 2009 (8:50 am)
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My (2005) allroad has rotten doors at the alloy strips ,as just out of warranty AUDI are not interested. Has anyone else got this problem ,Iwould suggest checking all ALLROADS for rust before your 3 year warranty lapses .I ve been told these cars are delivered to the dealers with celephane on the alloy strips , it is removed with a stanley blade when being prepared for the showroom .

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