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413 messages,  Last post on Oct 08, 2009 at 10:49 AM

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What is this discussion about? Audi allroad quattro, Wagon

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#379 of 413 AllRoad Flood by burgundy1 Jul 26, 2008 (1:37 pm)
For the second time I got into my AllRoad 2004 after a severe rain to find several inches of water. The first time the electrical system went haywire and I took it in for repairs which took aver a week. They told me leaves accumulate under the hood and the water has no where to go so it empties into the car. Strange! The same thing happened this past Thursday but my electricals seem ok for now. I cleaned out the leaves last week so the explanation they gave me seems unfeasible.   Has anyone else had this occurence?
#380 of 413 by mharwood Jul 28, 2008 (4:45 am)
Be sure to read through the previous posts here--I think someone else had this same problem last week and I gave them this same advice: The water is isn't in the engine compartment, it is in the battery tray. It's at the base of the windshield under the black plastic cowl. You have to get in there and clean out the drain holes with your hands. They tend to accumulate leaves and debris and flood the compartment. I guarantee this is the problem, although I'm at a loss to explain why your dealer didn't know about it--it is a very common problem with C5 A6 Audis. Fix it ASAP before it fries your transmission module. There will probably be several inches of standing water, and once you clear the drains, it'll come pouring out the bottom of the car as it should.   Hope this helps.
#381 of 413 Oil in the charged air line by the DV by augustom Sep 21, 2008 (10:31 am)
This weekend I changed both my diverter valves for the 710N, While doing the work I found oil in the Charged Air Line of the Left DV. Is my left side turbo going? I have not noticed smoke coming out of the car, is there anything I can do to save the turbo? If not, can I replace only one turbo or does it have to be both?   Car is a lighly used 2001 Allroad with 30,000miles.
#382 of 413 2002 Allroad warning lights by chipdaly Oct 07, 2008 (3:58 pm)
The other day when I started my 2002 Audi Allroad and began to drive the car, it seemed like it didn't have much power. Then I realized there were 4 warning lights on the dash. I also realized the transmisson inidicator on the dash wasn't on letting me know if I was in drive, park, etc. I also realized the car felt like it was taking off in 3rd gear and wasn't shifting at all. I tried the manual tiptronic and couldn't shift the gears, couldn't down shift or up shift. Anybody have an idea of the what problem can be. A friend suggested it's electrical and perhaps disconnect and then reconnect the battery???????????//
#383 of 413 significant water damage by maggi Nov 03, 2008 (8:16 am)
Help! Our C5 allroad wouldn't shift from park into drive. We tried hitting the brake hard but the shift wouldn't budge. Car was put on a flatbed to the dealer. Dealer said there was rain water which got into the transmission as well as the master brake cylinder. Parts cost will be $3800+, labor obvoiusly much as well.   I don't know a lot about cars but for sure the transmission and master brake cylinders are SEALED. We don't see transmission or brake fluid spewing out of them, do we? Then how was mere rain water get in? If water can enter these components, does this mean I cannot drive in the rain ... or take the allroad thru a car wash? What gives? Help!!!   Frustrated in Greenwich ...
#384 of 413 Audi Allroad by chipdaly Nov 03, 2008 (4:20 pm)
I have a 2002 allroad (99k miles) and have sunk $10,000 (since 85k miles) into it in the past year, includes timing belt ($1,500), 2 front air shocks ($1,800), transmission control module ($1,600, the dame part was $1,350 by itself) amongst other smaller repairs (by small I would say $800 is getting off cheap). I know they say don't sell in a down market, but let me tell you, SELL.
#385 of 413 Re: 2001 allroad: keep or dump? [kjq88] by augustom Nov 16, 2008 (4:23 am)
Replying to: kjq88 (Mar 06, 2007 2:29 pm) You just repaired the two well documented problems of this car, all other issues like timing belt, etc are scheduled maintenance repairs any other car will have, so keep the car and enjoy it for at least another 50k miles with no major repairs.
#386 of 413 Maintanence Issues 03 allroad by hils3 Jan 12, 2009 (2:07 pm)
I'm purchasing an 03 Allroad with 66k and I am looking for some feedback in regards to maintanence. What should I be concerned with? Timing belt? Air-ride systmen? I would also like to increase the HP, so I'm considering a chip or direct post program and sport bi-pass valves? Any suggestions? thanks Replies to this message: chipdaly (Jan 12, 2009 4:58 pm)
#387 of 413 Re: Maintanence Issues 03 allroad [hils3] by chipdaly Jan 12, 2009 (4:58 pm)
Replying to: hils3 (Jan 12, 2009 2:07 pm) I just sold an Allroad 02 with about 100k. Had to replace: front air shocks ($1,800), timing belt at 85k ($1,500), the transmission control module ($1,650), and a few other things. Good Luck!
#388 of 413 Re: Chipping and gas milage [markcincinnati] by fueledpassion Jan 25, 2009 (9:31 am)
Replying to: markcincinnati (Apr 28, 2004 5:45 am) Dude,   "15. Don't "warm up" the engine for more than 30 seconds EVER "   DO NOT EVER start driving before 1 minute for NA cars DO NOT EVER start driving before 2 to 3 minute for turbo / supercharged cars   2001 Audi allroad 2.7 BI turbo "chipped" (reflashed ECU) = 80 HP 110 TQ, same driving style 4 to 5 miles MORE per gallon...   I drive to my girlfriends school on a weekly basis i use the same gas station every time. before chip i fill up going up then fill up when im back... now with it "chipped" i have 130 miles left to go. so i went from 330 miles PER TANK to 470 MILES PER TANK... and 98% of the drive in on cruise control at ~70/72 MPH   As for my sparkplugs, i noticed that at first they were a little rich, thats because more fuel more air. after about 100 miles they were the same as before the reflash. shows the computer had to "learn"... O2 sensors were replaced about 3000 miles before i reflashed it, at the same time i checked over hoses and vacuum leaks. Everything was the same.   so yes... the "chip" helps your MPG after your heavy foot becomes a feather again.   "10. Use the premium platinum 4 tip spark plugs that are designed for your car "   NOT recommended, depending on the car you might have a car with Coil On Plug, or Distributer. with coil on plug i would make sure you get the right temperature plug not if it has more cool looking electrodes. cars with distributers should do the most research, you need to consider things like; can your car electrical output the right volts. can your distributor module handle the extra watts will your ECU correct the timing and wattage needed for these plugs.   if your car cant output the right volts then its worse on your ecc.   if you want good economy; replace your fuel filter around 40k miles get a k&n air filter and clean it ever other oil change get the right sparkplugs (check forum on your model to see what gets best reviews) use heat wrap on your intake and headers (hot air = worse air/fuel mix = poor ignition) replace O2 sensors every 60k miles use recommended oil for your car and current claimants replace any leaky oil seals (leak = compression/emissions loss = poor economy) keep your car clean, clean = less wind drag inflate your tires 2 to 3 psi less then max (when you drive you will gain up to 5 psi depending on tire temp, keep it a little lower because if you curb your tire or hit a big pot hole you chance deforming the tire)   These are the basics to get better economy   if you want to get even better economy and better performance then...   Cold air intake kit with thermal wrap and isolator box get headers and use heat wrap on them relocate the catalytic converter downstream or under the chassis (some cars are like this some have it right by the firewall) get high flow downpipes high flow catalytic convertor figh flow exhaust upgrade your ignition system or ECU or BOTH depending on your make and model (older cars with distributers and ECU (94ish to 99ish) do both) upgrade your fuel pump for 10 to 20 % more power replace injectors with = or > oem (turbo people google it NA people don’t go over 20 to 50 cc over stock) upgrade your fuel pressure regulator get larger wheels and lower profile tires remove all aftermarket body kits and wings get a wideband air fuel ratio gauge ( and for those who really want to get into it message me)

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