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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Wagons

475 messages,  Last post on Dec 16, 2010 at 6:27 AM

You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Forum.

What is this discussion about? Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Wagon

Messages Page 43 of 48

#421 of 475 Re: Brake Lights [dcornetta] by badgerfan

Mar 06, 2006 (11:49 am)

Replying to: dcornetta (Jan 19, 2006 1:36 pm)
Before you go jumping to conclusions, I would check to see if your Taurus was included in the brake light switch recall that I believe applied to all 2000 Tauri. My sedan was recalled, though I never had problems with the switch. You can call any Ford dealer and if you have the VIN they can tell you whether the switch was replaced when the recall occurred several years ago. I would not first assume that you have broken wires in your tailgate.

#422 of 475 Re: Brake Lights [badgerfan] by e_net_rider

Mar 08, 2006 (6:33 am)

Replying to: badgerfan (Mar 06, 2006 11:49 am)
My wifes vehicle is a 97 and from what I've heard all wagons from 96 on have same back end.
Trouble shooting switch is pretty easy.
Broken wires in the rubber boot of the lift gate is pretty common. The only wire that would force a recall will be the one for the third brake light. Speakers, tag light, etc will not force a recall as quickly as the brake light being out. If the insulation of the wire also breaks allowing a short, then possibly a fire hazard or at least a blown fuse in the lighting or other circuits. And so with the brake light as well. I know I had a blown fuse from such but don't remember which lighting circuit it was. So check fuses as well.

#423 of 475 Re: Yeah, but that's a '92 [gerald2003r] by e_net_rider

Mar 08, 2006 (7:30 am)

Replying to: gerald2003r (Jan 17, 2006 1:06 am)
Your vehicle would have the AXOD-E, which is the same basic tranny since inception of Taurus. Basic I say because there have been a number of small modifications over the years. The E version having a major change in the valve pack bolted up (under the side cover) where shifting is accomplished via the computer. Prior it was done by pressures developed inside the transmission. Changes over the years might include better seals, change out of some springs inside the pack, removing or adding check balls, drilling orifices to slightly larger size, and a change of the tubes located in the bottom pan. This last one Ford knows of because they sell the tube/s. I may have gotten the springs through Ford as well. I know I got some but don't remember which as I had a broken modulator spring as well (also common). The tube change may have been done because of inadequate lubrication to a point. Hazy memory after 10 years. There are like maybe 5 tubes visible when pan is removed. You will see a bracket holding them, but they are also loctite into the holes they go into. (one has just a reduced end to squirt oil into the area. This can be done without pulling tranny, but you will have to wait until all fluid has dripped down and solvent clean the ports for new loctite. One tube may be reused, just in a different location. A new tube is used for the redirection. In addition to the lubrication issue, it may affect the apply rate of one of the clutches. Your vehicle may already have this change but I don't remember when it came out.
Transmission shops seem to have a new rule when it comes to this family of transmissions. If you have high milage, like maybe 100K and fluid has never been serviced, do nothing. Apparently the anti-oxidants in the fluid wear out way before this point. Consequently burning of clutch surfaces. New fluid tries to remove it, resulting in slippage. It is my understanding they've gone this way because of the ensuing trouble, they've ended up paying for rebuilds. I personally did AX4-S about 2 years ago with 100K. The S is and updated AXOD-E. In fact, the pans are the same and may have that stamped into them. I did it as soon as we got the vehicle, total flush. Later, I noticed it was wanting to do early TCC lock and late release. 2 years later I'm getting P1744 code, intermittantly, which indicates slippage. Shop announces new tranny. Think it was sloppy troubleshooting. Maybe the fluid wasn't up to snuff? Decided to try the flush again. While getting it and filter, I noticed that lubeguard has a flush product. The transmission rebuilders of america recommend the lubeguard in all rebuilds. Also developed many of the improvements, not Ford. I give the flush a try. I'm shocked at how dirty the fluid seems after 35K. Not sure of specifications on the Coastal brand from Autozone used last time. Used Walmart Mercon this time. (Make sure you use what your tranny call for) Disconnected lower cooler line and pumped old from converter as new was added. (16 1/2 quarts for me) No code reset yet. The lubeguard flush may have removed residues that weren't previously gotten. (cut engine the moment it seems to be near pumped empty from pan, each time) I will not add Lubeguard this time because it isn't a rebuild. Part of its function is friction modifier, less wear on metal parts too. Prevents harsh shifts also. But with wear and age on this tranny, it may induce to much slippage.

#424 of 475 3rd seat safety by bahlg

Mar 08, 2006 (9:36 am)

I am looking at 2003 Taurus Wagon with the 3rd seat in the back. What is the safety of this for children? I have a call into my state police to find out the law, but does anyone else do this? I rarely have a need to put more than 3 children in my car, so the 2nd seat has always been enough room, but I love the idea of being able to put 2 more in there..I just haven't seen it done since I was child. Thoughts?
Thanks!

#425 of 475 Engine knocking? Can this be the motor? by myxo

Mar 13, 2006 (8:34 pm)

Hi All,
I have a 1999 Taurus Wagon, this afternoon while driving, I realized that when increasing speed up to 60mph on the freeway there is this rattling from the engine that sounds almost like a diesel, a kind of intense knocking.( I drive about 70 miles a day.)
I went to my local mechanic (very nice guy) where the problem didnt show up till the car was in gear and you rev it. (ie if its in park and you rev it, you dont hear the diesel like sound.)
The mechanic says its a motor problem (by the way he isolated the sound, by listening through a hose...touching it to different parts of the engine to find where the sound was oroiginating, which felt kind of unscientific for me.) I figured I'd go get a second opinion tomorrow, but wanted to ask here, just incase there are some suggestions.He says motor repair will cost about $2,000+ . He suggested trading it in and not repairing it as it could develop other problems, so I dont think he was just trying to make some money off me by misdiagnosing the problem.
At this age and mileage (130,000miles) I dont want to spend too much on the car as it may not be worth that much more.And there could be further problems , whereby I might end up spending say $5000 or more ....you get my drift
If I could get it to last for about 5 more months, I'd be ready to get a new vehicle around then.
 I will take it to a dealer as a last resort, but they will probably charge $100 - 200 just to diagnose the problem (just guessing at the moment).
2. Has any of you dealt with companies like firestone etc for jobs of this type
Any recommendations of any sort will be appreciated.
thanks
Myxo

#426 of 475 Re: Engine knocking? Can this be the motor? [myxo] by beancounter

Apr 05, 2006 (3:16 pm)

Replying to: myxo (Mar 13, 2006 8:34 pm)
I have 2000 Merc Sable w/ 164,000 miles and the std V6 (not the 24 valve). Some pinging is normal w/ the std V6 according to the owners manual. I didn't like it, so I started running 93 octane back around 50,000 miles and it hasn't made a sound since. I also love the extra power when I want it, or better gas mileage (you can't have both if you like passing people). I can squeeze out 29-30 mpg vs only 28 on the 89 octane.
 
Pinging can also be harmful to the life of the engine, depending on how severe it is. That makes the higher cost of the premium gas worth it, even if you didn't get better gas mileage.
 
Before selling it, or putting a lot of money into it, I would suggest first trying a tank of premium gas along with a good fuel system cleaner. If it disappears, that was your problem. You may still have to run premium, but as I said earlier, you prolong the life of the engine, you enjoy more power, and you can get better gas mileage if you want it.
 
I plan on driving mine to 225,000 before giving it to my daughter for her first car. It has been a fantastic car, but then I'm a nut on maintenance. When it comes time to replace, I hope to get a new Ford 500 or Freestyle.
 
Let me know what happens.

#427 of 475 Re: Engine knocking? Can this be the motor? [beancounter] by myxo

Apr 05, 2006 (5:01 pm)

Replying to: beancounter (Apr 05, 2006 3:16 pm)
Thanks Beancounter,
I appreciate you taking the time to share this tip. I will definetely try it in a couple of days when its time to fill up.
I have been driving it "slowly and evenly" , hoping it keeps going to end of the year when car deals may be sweeter.
 Incidentally, I only get about 16-18mpg. Been that way for a while.
   I also want to change my oil soon at about 2500miles. It just occured to me the other day that this problem could be because I mixed oil grades about 2weeks before this problem began. I mistakenly picked up 10w40 castrol (a whole case from sams). I used about 2 bottles before realizing it, so I ttopped it off with 3.5 more bottles of 5w30of the same brand and SAE, probably a big mistake.
  I will give you some feedback soon as I try the premium fuel.Keeping my fingers crossed.
cheers

#428 of 475 Re: Engine knocking? Can this be the motor? [myxo] by beancounter

Apr 18, 2006 (3:45 pm)

Replying to: myxo (Apr 05, 2006 5:01 pm)
I will assume it was during an oil change that you "used about 2 bottles...", and not that the car is burning that much oil. I don't know enough about cars to say for sure that was the cause of the problem, but I'm sure mixing weights is not a recommended practice. I am changing oil about every 4,000 hiway miles and I might be using 1/2 a qt between changes. Let me know what happens with the prem gas and system cleaner.
 
I have stayed away from the "chain" repair stores and the dealerships. I found a good local mechanic that I have gotten to know very well and have complete faith in. He doesn't have to answer to shareholders or some big corporate office. All I get is honest answers and no high pressure. I have turned all maintenance over to him including brakes, and exhaust work (if and when I need that). His prices may be a little higher if you had the exact same work done elsewhere (and I'm not even sure that's true), but I know he has saved me a ton by not selling me a lot of unnecessary parts & labor. The money I pay him also stays right in the local economy. I finally got my dad convinced to find a local mechanic where he lives after showing him what his maintenance per 1000 miles was costing him compared to mine. Dealer wanted $600 or so to fix an A/C problem. His new mechanic took the time to diagnose the problem and fixed it for about $150. Needless to say, I don't think he'll be going back to his dealership any time soon. Since then, he has had a few other things done. He now enjoys peace of mind when he drops his car off, something he never really had much of before.

#429 of 475 Re: Engine knocking? Can this be the motor? [beancounter] by myxo

Apr 19, 2006 (8:18 am)

Replying to: beancounter (Apr 18, 2006 3:45 pm)
Hi BeanCounter,
Yes it was during an oil change, I had gone out and bought a box of oil, somehow I picked up a 10w40 instead of 5w30 that I normally use. I noticed my error only after I had drained the engine and poured in a couple of bottles, so I added a few bottles of 5w30 that I had around the garage.
I actually dont use any oil between oil changes (as the level seems to be well maintained.)
 
 I have been using the high octane gas for about a week and a half. I would say there is a huge improvement in the performance. (I changed my oil too around the same time even though it wasnt 3000 miles yet(back to 5w30). But I think the improvement is likely due to the unleaded premium. Anyways,I will keep observing the car. The knocking is not totally eliminated, but its not as bad as before. My next move is to use some engine additive( I used Seafaom sometime ago)..I just need to research which brand is ideal.
 
I agree with you about using local(trusted) mechanics. I actually have developed a freiedship with mine. Interesting thing is that I bought him some gifts at Xmas time, that seemed to have been highly appreciated, as the relationship has solidified. He even shows me how to fix some simple things myself so I dont have to pay any thing (like when my antifreeze reservoir was leaking and he gave me instructions on how to replace it. I bought the reservoir from the dealer and in 10 min had it repaired.)
 
I will post any change in the performance.. I hope it keeps improving.
Again, thanks for sharing. I think your high octne tip will end up helping my engine last a little longer.
cheers

#430 of 475 Re: Engine knocking? Can this be the motor? [myxo] by beancounter

May 01, 2006 (9:05 am)

Replying to: myxo (Apr 19, 2006 8:18 am)
Sorry it took so long to respond. Forgot I had posted a message here.
 
In addition to the higher octane gas, there was a TSB (Tech Service Bulletin) issued to the dealers re: excessive pinging or knocking. Back at around 30K miles, I had them perform what they called an "Octane adjstmt" while the car was still under warranty. It helped a little (and I was using 89 oct at the time), but I later had to make the switch to 93 octane, and that took care of the rest of the noise. It hasn't made a sound since, and I'm at 165K now. If you've never had it done, it may solve the rest of your problem too. Your dealer may even do that at no charge, or your own mech may be able to do the same thing. I think all it was was a slight reprogramming of the engine's computer.
 
My mechanic also has a 3 part fuel system cleaner that he performed on my car at around 90K. Cleaned everything including cylinders, injectors, upper and lower intakes, and throttle body. That may be something to look into also. I'm sure it probably does a better, or more thorough job than the "off the shelf" additives, but then it cost quite a bit more. Only had it done that one time, but I thought it was worth it. It may also give you a noticeable boost in gas mileage.
 
Keep me posted.

Messages Page 43 of 48

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