Last post on Dec 16, 2010 at 5:27 AM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
What is this discussion about?
Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Wagon
#418 of 475 Re: Yeah, but that's a '92 [erbie]
Jan 17, 2006 (12:06 am)
Well in my view it should NOT take a company like Ford to make a better version of a car in 5 years?!?!? But I do own a 1994 Ford Taurus Wagon and I'm happy but mainly because I'm able to do my own work on the car. At 140,000 miles the ball joints were shot, highway only for the most part and that would include the Stabilizer tie rods going much sooner. Moog has a great fix for this problem. Moog does allot of suspension problem solving. I'm at 252,000 and rebuilding the whole suspension including springs. It's a wondeful car on the highway if you know how to take care of it. Engine is running perfectly to date and the Tranny is showing signs of failure, but that is pretty good after 12 years! If you are looking to improve your Ford Taurus I will let you know how this next rebuild goes... Going greasable everything that I can find, Swaybar ties, Lower ball joints, Tie rods... Whatever I can find... Need tranny info if anyone has any on a 1994 Taurus Wagon LX...
Thanks and I hoped I helped and willing to hel many more..!
Jan 19, 2006 (12:36 pm)
I have a 2000 Ford Taurus Wagon (I know you feel bad for me). My brake lights are currently not working. I am in a pinch I really need to know how I fix those. Any suggestions. Unfortunately I can't find the owners manual on how to fix this problem. Please help!!!!!!!!
#420 of 475 Re: Brake Lights [dcornetta]
Mar 01, 2006 (6:17 am)
Just a hint. Seems all American manufacturers have gone to cheap wiring. That is lighter guage and fewer strands. Result wires breaking at points of flex, particularly doors. Your wagon gate is such. Vulnerable are speakers, tag light, etc. But of great concern is the brake light circuit because of the third light location. This can short out the entire circuit. Complain to NHTSA and maybe enough complaints will force ford to recall and fix all. I've already repaired at least three broken wires in that area of flex, inside the rubber boots.
#421 of 475 Re: Brake Lights [dcornetta]
Mar 06, 2006 (10:49 am)
Before you go jumping to conclusions, I would check to see if your Taurus was included in the brake light switch recall that I believe applied to all 2000 Tauri. My sedan was recalled, though I never had problems with the switch. You can call any Ford dealer and if you have the VIN they can tell you whether the switch was replaced when the recall occurred several years ago. I would not first assume that you have broken wires in your tailgate.
#422 of 475 Re: Brake Lights [badgerfan]
Mar 08, 2006 (5:33 am)
My wifes vehicle is a 97 and from what I've heard all wagons from 96 on have same back end.
Trouble shooting switch is pretty easy.
Broken wires in the rubber boot of the lift gate is pretty common. The only wire that would force a recall will be the one for the third brake light. Speakers, tag light, etc will not force a recall as quickly as the brake light being out. If the insulation of the wire also breaks allowing a short, then possibly a fire hazard or at least a blown fuse in the lighting or other circuits. And so with the brake light as well. I know I had a blown fuse from such but don't remember which lighting circuit it was. So check fuses as well.
#423 of 475 Re: Yeah, but that's a '92 [gerald2003r]
Mar 08, 2006 (6:30 am)
Your vehicle would have the AXOD-E, which is the same basic tranny since inception of Taurus. Basic I say because there have been a number of small modifications over the years. The E version having a major change in the valve pack bolted up (under the side cover) where shifting is accomplished via the computer. Prior it was done by pressures developed inside the transmission. Changes over the years might include better seals, change out of some springs inside the pack, removing or adding check balls, drilling orifices to slightly larger size, and a change of the tubes located in the bottom pan. This last one Ford knows of because they sell the tube/s. I may have gotten the springs through Ford as well. I know I got some but don't remember which as I had a broken modulator spring as well (also common). The tube change may have been done because of inadequate lubrication to a point. Hazy memory after 10 years. There are like maybe 5 tubes visible when pan is removed. You will see a bracket holding them, but they are also loctite into the holes they go into. (one has just a reduced end to squirt oil into the area. This can be done without pulling tranny, but you will have to wait until all fluid has dripped down and solvent clean the ports for new loctite. One tube may be reused, just in a different location. A new tube is used for the redirection. In addition to the lubrication issue, it may affect the apply rate of one of the clutches. Your vehicle may already have this change but I don't remember when it came out.
Transmission shops seem to have a new rule when it comes to this family of transmissions. If you have high milage, like maybe 100K and fluid has never been serviced, do nothing. Apparently the anti-oxidants in the fluid wear out way before this point. Consequently burning of clutch surfaces. New fluid tries to remove it, resulting in slippage. It is my understanding they've gone this way because of the ensuing trouble, they've ended up paying for rebuilds. I personally did AX4-S about 2 years ago with 100K. The S is and updated AXOD-E. In fact, the pans are the same and may have that stamped into them. I did it as soon as we got the vehicle, total flush. Later, I noticed it was wanting to do early TCC lock and late release. 2 years later I'm getting P1744 code, intermittantly, which indicates slippage. Shop announces new tranny. Think it was sloppy troubleshooting. Maybe the fluid wasn't up to snuff? Decided to try the flush again. While getting it and filter, I noticed that lubeguard has a flush product. The transmission rebuilders of america recommend the lubeguard in all rebuilds. Also developed many of the improvements, not Ford. I give the flush a try. I'm shocked at how dirty the fluid seems after 35K. Not sure of specifications on the Coastal brand from Autozone used last time. Used Walmart Mercon this time. (Make sure you use what your tranny call for) Disconnected lower cooler line and pumped old from converter as new was added. (16 1/2 quarts for me) No code reset yet. The lubeguard flush may have removed residues that weren't previously gotten. (cut engine the moment it seems to be near pumped empty from pan, each time) I will not add Lubeguard this time because it isn't a rebuild. Part of its function is friction modifier, less wear on metal parts too. Prevents harsh shifts also. But with wear and age on this tranny, it may induce to much slippage.
#424 of 475 3rd seat safety
Mar 08, 2006 (8:36 am)
I am looking at 2003 Taurus Wagon with the 3rd seat in the back. What is the safety of this for children? I have a call into my state police to find out the law, but does anyone else do this? I rarely have a need to put more than 3 children in my car, so the 2nd seat has always been enough room, but I love the idea of being able to put 2 more in there..I just haven't seen it done since I was child. Thoughts?
#425 of 475 Engine knocking? Can this be the motor?
Mar 13, 2006 (7:34 pm)
I have a 1999 Taurus Wagon, this afternoon while driving, I realized that when increasing speed up to 60mph on the freeway there is this rattling from the engine that sounds almost like a diesel, a kind of intense knocking.( I drive about 70 miles a day.)
I went to my local mechanic (very nice guy) where the problem didnt show up till the car was in gear and you rev it. (ie if its in park and you rev it, you dont hear the diesel like sound.)
The mechanic says its a motor problem (by the way he isolated the sound, by listening through a hose...touching it to different parts of the engine to find where the sound was oroiginating, which felt kind of unscientific for me.) I figured I'd go get a second opinion tomorrow, but wanted to ask here, just incase there are some suggestions.He says motor repair will cost about $2,000+ . He suggested trading it in and not repairing it as it could develop other problems, so I dont think he was just trying to make some money off me by misdiagnosing the problem.
At this age and mileage (130,000miles) I dont want to spend too much on the car as it may not be worth that much more.And there could be further problems , whereby I might end up spending say $5000 or more ....you get my drift
If I could get it to last for about 5 more months, I'd be ready to get a new vehicle around then.
I will take it to a dealer as a last resort, but they will probably charge $100 - 200 just to diagnose the problem (just guessing at the moment).
2. Has any of you dealt with companies like firestone etc for jobs of this type
Any recommendations of any sort will be appreciated.
#426 of 475 Re: Engine knocking? Can this be the motor? [myxo]
Apr 05, 2006 (2:16 pm)
I have 2000 Merc Sable w/ 164,000 miles and the std V6 (not the 24 valve). Some pinging is normal w/ the std V6 according to the owners manual. I didn't like it, so I started running 93 octane back around 50,000 miles and it hasn't made a sound since. I also love the extra power when I want it, or better gas mileage (you can't have both if you like passing people). I can squeeze out 29-30 mpg vs only 28 on the 89 octane.
Pinging can also be harmful to the life of the engine, depending on how severe it is. That makes the higher cost of the premium gas worth it, even if you didn't get better gas mileage.
Before selling it, or putting a lot of money into it, I would suggest first trying a tank of premium gas along with a good fuel system cleaner. If it disappears, that was your problem. You may still have to run premium, but as I said earlier, you prolong the life of the engine, you enjoy more power, and you can get better gas mileage if you want it.
I plan on driving mine to 225,000 before giving it to my daughter for her first car. It has been a fantastic car, but then I'm a nut on maintenance. When it comes time to replace, I hope to get a new Ford 500 or Freestyle.
Let me know what happens.
#427 of 475 Re: Engine knocking? Can this be the motor? [beancounter]
Apr 05, 2006 (4:01 pm)
I appreciate you taking the time to share this tip. I will definetely try it in a couple of days when its time to fill up.
I have been driving it "slowly and evenly" , hoping it keeps going to end of the year when car deals may be sweeter.
Incidentally, I only get about 16-18mpg. Been that way for a while.
I also want to change my oil soon at about 2500miles. It just occured to me the other day that this problem could be because I mixed oil grades about 2weeks before this problem began. I mistakenly picked up 10w40 castrol (a whole case from sams). I used about 2 bottles before realizing it, so I ttopped it off with 3.5 more bottles of 5w30of the same brand and SAE, probably a big mistake.
I will give you some feedback soon as I try the premium fuel.Keeping my fingers crossed.