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Wagons Volvo V70 Volvo V70 Wagon Experience
1827 messages, Last post on Sep 24, 2009 at 12:33 PM
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I need help from one of you under the dash smart people. My '01 V70 T5 has dual zone clim. control dials. They worked fine this winter but now using the A/C only the drivers side will condition the air. The passenger side knob does change the temp from temperate to hot but there is no cool air from the A/C. I have maneuvered the knobs to different temp settings, changed all controls making the air go to defrost, middle, feet and auto with no improvement. I suspect since the air conditioner works on the driver side that there is a diverter door stuck somewhere under the dash. Anyone have any advice on where to look or how I can 'shake the door loose'? Also, any airbag hints I need to know before tearing into the pass. side dash? Thanks.
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Replying to: camydog (Jun 10, 2008 3:29 am) funny, my '01 V70 T5 has the exact same A/C problem that you describe here. I'll be watching to see if there's a helpful post coming our way. Everything else, climate wise, works just fine except the A/C not coming from the passenger's side. I want to have this fixed when the NW finally comes out of "Junuary." Thanks |
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Replying to: hotmale (Sep 06, 2003 1:33 pm) Jeanne |
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These a/c problems require professional service. Modern auto a/c systems have all sorts of sensors and feedbacks. Intermittent cooling could be low freon, but an untrained person can add too much freon. Another possible source is the temperature sensor which reads the temp at the expansion valve, but just changing parts without expert knowledge is just "throwing parts at the problem". Take it in for service to a dealer or a good independent a/c shop. It will cost you, but there's no way out of it.
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Replying to: jim314 (Jun 12, 2008 3:54 am) They said that a passenger side a/c problem would most likely stem from a faulty temp sensor, or possibly needing a A/C Recharge! So Camydog, it's not likely any of the dampers or doors. Which is good, considering the cost of that issue would be astronomical. |
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Replying to: fedlawman (Aug 26, 2007 7:54 am) This will go on a 2005 base V70 wagon. Haven't looked at bike racks as of yet but looked at the 2" hitch due to hauling a trailer with an RT1150 sitting on it. Also....angle of the car...would you scrape bottom front if you backed the thing up on ramps? Have ramps and haven't tried yet. Was tire removal necessary to get the bumper off? Just wondering if this is one of those "Volvo makes it impossible for the guy to do it at home" deals? We had someone crack the rear passenger side tail light (bottom) and it turns out that the top interlocks with the bottom so you had to tear all that out to replace it (which was not fun). Curious as to how ugly this is going to get when I do this. I definitely don't want to drop $450 for the dealer to do it either. |
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Replying to: redwingwagon (Jun 23, 2008 11:18 am) If I had it to do over, I would try to get an aftermarket 2" receiver hitch from one of the big manufacturers, like Hidden Hitch. You could just buy the Volvo harness if you wanted to use that rather than the aftermarket one. The Volvo hitch fits higher and so you'd no significant loss of clearance on a ramp. 1. Wiring harmess For the 2004 V70, the wiring harness simply plugged into an open plug in the spare tire/battery compartment. Contrary to the instructions I did not move or disconnect the battery. I just pushed out the old oval rubber plug in the floor pan and pressed in the new wire and grommet combination. However, the type of wiring harness used in 2004 has no circuit breaker. As best I can determine protection from short circuits in the trailer wiring is from fuses in one or more of the several fuse boxes. To make things more confusing I expected to be instructed to add a new fuse that was not present in this base model V70, but there was no such instruction. Yet the thing works! How can this be?! I was not able to figure out which fuses protect from shorts in trailer wiring. I'll have to see what fuse or fuses are blown if and when this happens. The wiring harness from Volvo for their newer models may be like the aftermarket arrangement where the power comes directly the battery to the breaker protected controller. Only signals come from V70 wiring to the various light circuits. 2. Hitch itself The bar/receiver for the 2004 was in three main pieces which bolt together, rather than the usual welded single piece hitch! For the 2004 V70 the instructions are to totally remove the rear bumper facia so as to gain access to install the hitch behind the facia. To do this you must support the body and remove both rear wheels to drill out the light rivets holding the facia in the back inside of the wheel wells . . . I had no tools or skills to do this, so I did some surgery on the plastic bumper facia which allowed me to insert the three pieces (some force required) separately and assemble them in place behind the bumper facia. If you want more info, email me and I'll give more detail. My wife bought a 2007 XC90 and I plan to get an aftermarket hitch and either have it put on or do it myself. I haven't decided on the wiring harness. The procedure for the 2007 Volvo XC90 hitch is even more complicated that for the V70. |
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Replying to: redwingwagon (Jun 23, 2008 11:18 am) I will say that I could not find any aftermarket 2" receivers - that's why I bought the Volvo part. And I'm glad I did - a "Hidden Hitch" or "U-Haul" product would not have the flush factory appearance I wanted. The Volvo hitch hangs about 3" below the bottom of the fascia, so I guess it depends on how steep an incline the ramps are. Here are some photos of my installation...   
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Replying to: fedlawman (Jun 23, 2008 10:58 pm) If you do it my way you have to cut three holes in the facia in addition to the one over the receiver, but only one is visible standing behind the vehicle. (The purpose of these 3 additional holes to gain access to the two large bolts and nuts which fasten the bar to the brackets which attach to the frame.) I cut all of these holes with a 1.5" dia keyhole saw on my electric drill. The visible hole is in the rear on the driver side opposite the hole on the passenger side for access to the tow hook. I pressed a 1.5" black plastic plug into the hole and it looks OK. A better idea might be to buy another square plastic plug like the one on the passenger side and cut a square hole. This would allow more room for wrenching. If you use a 1.5" dia hole it has to be in exactly the right spot, which I achieved by multiple measurings. The other two holes are in the underside corners to allow wrenching on the bolts. Then I had to cut from the holes to the edge to make the bottom back of the facia flexible enough to work the bar under the facia.
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