Last post on Aug 30, 2012 at 6:10 PM
You are in the Volvo V70
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Volvo V70, Wagon
#1713 of 1905 Re: Buying an ex rental 2007 Volvo V70 ASR [campbed]
Jul 04, 2007 (6:04 pm)
In early '01 we bought an 01 V70 XC that had been a Hertz rental car put into service very early on in the model year. Someone had scrawled on the radiator cover "08/00" which indicated the in-service date. (I have since learned that savvy used Class 8 truck buyers always check the VIN for in-service dates because a vehicle could vary as much as 12 months in age within a given model year.)
Prior to buying it I called Hertz in Boston and elsewhere to get a feel for their "maintenance schedule". It was like talking to meatheads. They didn't have any. None. Just wash it and wait for the next OJ Simpson to come along. The car had a filthy air cleaner etc. But not to worry, we threw in a new air filter , changed the oil filter (why isn't there an aftermarket filter for these things?) and Mobil 1 and put it on a rigorouse maintenance schedule.
We had the usual problems with this first model year car which I have recounted earlier. But none as far as I know were related to Hertz. At the time we bought the car, it had high mileage for a six month old car. But because the car isn't used much, the odometer now only reads 83K so it is back within parameters.
One benefit of buying a Hertz rental is that it will be specced with a desireable color and options. I don't think Hertz buys lava colored, stick shift V70s with manual seats. They spec them to be rented by conversative middle aged people and quickly re-sold to, you guessed it, conservative middle aged people.
We are hoping to pick up the new iteration of the XC70 in '08 or, more rationally, in '09 when the first year bugs are worked out. To hedge our bets we just installed a bunch of replacement and upgrade parts from IPD Volvo: new struts, new engine mount, a strut support bar, the upgraded charcoal filter, etc.
Beyond the question of Hertz, the larger question is would we buy a V70 XC again? Yep. Despite the first year problems, where else are you going to buy an AWD entry-level luxury wagon for a 35-36K USD transaction price? A Bimmer AWD 5 Series wagon is 67K list with much less capability. Not only is it 30K more than an XC, to haul your butt around it has TWIN turbos! Come on. That is a maintenance problem just waiting to happen at 70K miles.
An E Class AWD wagon is "only" 20K more than the Volvo with, again, far less capability. The Germans do look nice when Muffie pulls up to St. Pauls or Andover in one to pick up Seamus for the ride home at Christmas.
Jul 17, 2007 (9:30 am)
Hey, if you're around I need to ask a question: How does one disable the daytime running lights on a 2003 XC70? My folks just purchased the car; however, I could not find a little disabling screw next to the headlight switch, like there is on my '96 850 and '99 S70.
Other folks on the board, please feel free to answer my question. Thanks a lot!
#1715 of 1905 Re: Volvomax: [jrosasmc]
Jul 17, 2007 (10:23 am)
I recall that the owner's manual on my 2004 V70 states that the daytime running lights can be disabled by the dealer. Presumably this is done through the computer port.
I am a tightwad and hate the thought of burning the headlights out, and the area around the headlights is so cramped that I'm not sure I can change the bulb at least on one side (don't remember which), but I haven't disabled the daytime running lights. I think it does make the car more visible. It could bring my car to the attention of an inattentive driver coming the other way. And I appreciate other drivers doing the same for me.
#1716 of 1905 Volvo and Second Marriage: The Triumph of Hope over Experience
Jul 17, 2007 (7:55 pm)
What does buying another new Volvo and a second marriage have in common? The triump of hope over experience.
With the new 2008 Model Year changes, the new V70/XC70 looks attractive. Wouldn't it be slick to pick up a new one to replace our '01 and ride the new one out for the full model cycle as we did the '01? We had our XC70 now for the full run of the model cycle and stylistically had a "new car" for 7 years. Conceivably, my thinking went, if we buy an '08 this fall we could get 7 years out of that one too. (The only flaw in that argument might be that in 2015 when I am 70 I may not want to be faced with replacing a 7 year old car. But then again, if 40 is the new 30, 70 is the new 50 and I'll have a lot of miles left on my chassis.)
I then remembered the problems with our '01. Problems chalked up by everyone as typical of all first year cars. But, oh well, that's a long time ago, surely Volvo/Ford have learned how to better test prototypes with computer modeling/CAD-CAM, etc.
Maybe not. Recently, I had heard about the Ford 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel. It was brand new a couple of years ago and was so bad that web sites sprung up labelling it the "power joke". You couldn't keep head gaskets on it because it only had 12 head bolts to clamp each head on. Ford said that the heads could not be resufaced or even rebuilt. The diesel pickup people were irate. Ford had to rush through a revised 6.4 engine with radically different heads.
Maybe non-destructive testing at Ford hasn't advanced as much as we would have hoped?
Aug 26, 2007 (8:54 am)
I finally had a free day to install my new bike rack - thought I'd share my experience.
Background - I wanted a bike rack that could carry 4 bikes (our entire family). I tried a trunk mount/strap supported rack but quickly discovered that the edge of the top of the rear hatch (that supports most of the weight of the loaded rack) is made of plastic.
I decided to get a trailer hitch mounted bike rack and started researching my options.
1. I found several aftermarket hitch receivers from companies like Draw-Tight, Hidden Hitch, etc. but they were only available in 1.25" receiver. The advantage is they only cost about $130 and they are simple to install - they bolt underneath the bumper in about 15 minutes with no cutting or drilling. The disadvantage is the small receiver size means the rack isn't as stable - many racks for this receiver have straps for added support.
2. The only 2" hitch receiver is the factory Volvo part. My local dealer wanted $285 for the part. The advantage is the 2" bike racks are much more stable (no support straps needed), and the Volvo receiver is custom made for the V70 (factory look and tidier installation). The disadvantage is the need to remove and trim the bumper and maybe 2 hours of labor.
Ultimately I decided to do the right thing and get the 2" factory receiver hitch and a 2" bike rack. I found an online parts supplier that sold me the Volvo receiver hitch for $203 and ordered it on the spot. Then I called my local dealer to see about installation. I figured a couple hours at $75/hr and I'd be set. WRONG! I was quoted $450 labor to install the receiver hitch. I decided to do it myself.
I must admit that I was nervous about this job. There are rivets in the wheel well that need to be drilled out, and I was afraid of permanently damaging the trim and bumper. After almost surrendering and calling a couple body shops for estimates. I finally bit the bullet and tackled the job in my driveway.
It turned out to not be a very complicated or difficult job - the toughest part was pulling the bumper off because of all the rivets, screws and hidden retaining clips. It took me 3 hours from start to finish and I am pleased with the results. I'm glad I chose the 2" hitch receiver - it's a lot bigger and stronger than those 1.25" bolt-under units, and I think it looks a lot better too.
The worst part of the experience was having the car up in the air like that and the wheels removed, and not having new rear brake pads on hand. My rear pads are ready for replacement but I haven't ordered them yet.
#1718 of 1905 Re: Bike Rack [fedlawman]
Aug 26, 2007 (9:16 pm)
I don't have jack stands or a floor jack, and I figured out a way to install the Volvo hitch on my 04 V70 without removing the rear wheels or the plastic bumper facia. But I don't recommend my method to anyone who has the equipment to install it according to the directions.
When I bought the hitch I assumed that the installation was like the aftermarket ones, but the dealer informed me that it was much more involved. I didn't need the hitch right away so I took it home and thought about it.
I was surprised that the hitch was in three main pieces that bolt together, rather than a single welded piece that I expected, and I hypothesized that possibly the Volvo engineers did this to allow the hitch to be installed without removing the bumper facia. However, it just turned out that removal of the facia was easier if one had the right tools and expertise, which I was lacking.
My procedure was to first, cut the slot in the facia that the hitch protrudes from (electric saber saw), and then I wiggled the individual pieces of the hitch behind the bumper facia and connected them in place. In order to do this I had to cut into the facia on the underside lower edges (circular holes to access the nuts and then cuts to allow the facia to be pulled down, and I cut a circular 1 1/2" hole in the vertical face of the facia on the left, to wrench on the left bolt head. I have a black plug in that hole and it looks fine. The right side bolt head is accessed through the rectangular pop-out. One could get an additional pop out and cut a rectangular hole in the left side just like the one on the right.
I intended to use pop rivets to rejoin the cut edges in the underside of the facia using sheet aluminum or scraps of facia, but I never got around to it. I am leaving the circular holes open so I could check the tightness of the two main bolts if I ever wanted to.
I thought I had located a source of an aftermarket hitch for the 04 V70 with a 2" square receiver, but I don't remember now. I agree that an 1 1/4" receiver would not be as useful.
We now have an 07 XC90 and I am going to put on, or have installed, an aftermarket hitch (probably Reece), because the XC90 Volvo hitch installation is considerably more involved than that for the V70--about 5 hours of labor! The Reece instructions give 1/2 hr of labor time! The only disadvantage for the Reece is that one would need a removable about 8" extension to allow the lower tailgate to clear the vertical member of a bike rack, but those are available for $50 or so. It wouldn't be needed for towing a trailer.
#1719 of 1905 Re: Bike Rack [fedlawman]
Aug 27, 2007 (6:24 pm)
If you had time this would be a great guide! You can go Here to submit it!
#1721 of 1905 Re: Bike Rack [fedlawman]
Sep 16, 2007 (11:41 am)
#1722 of 1905 Re: Volvo V70 Wagon Experience [christopher8]
Sep 20, 2007 (7:56 pm)
volvo's are just good cars bar-none No matter what others think, you cant kill them and they want die !!!