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Volvo 850 Wagons

491 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 8:06 PM
You are in the Older Volvo Wagons Forum. Your Host is kcram
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| ...all things being equal, if you don't mind the RWD (I prefer it, personally, and I live in a snowy climate) my personal preference would be the 960. It's all up to what you like best, really. I think maintenance and repair costs will be about the same. One of the things to check on the 960 is the condition of the rear self-leveling shocks (Nivomats)...the replacement cost for those is pretty frightening. Of course, make sure other maintenance (especially the timing belt) has been done. I think you'd do fine with either wagon. | |
| My '96 855T also "hums" at times when braking, yet the hum lingers a bit after the car has stopped. This only happens when the cabin blower is on. I figure it is not brakes at all, but the bearings in the blower starting to go. Load on the motor shifts when braking, putting different strain on the bearings. Thoughts? | |
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My 96 855T also has the ABS/Tracs failure intermittently. I believe that Tracs uses ABS so if ABS fails, Tracs is shut off hence the lights often are lit together. The ABS control module seems to be a known problem area. I pulled the ABS sensors and cleaned them to no avail. This model has the ABS module mounted under the ABS pump, not on the firewall. I've been able to get the top two screws out in order to replace it, but can't get at the bottom two. Any hints from some who have replaced it successfully? Is the module repairable, or only replaceable?
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Dwiner, As you probably know to remove the ABS Module you will need a E5 Torx Wrench Socket (This is the female version of a standard Torx wrench). If you do not have one it should be easy enough to get from you local machine tool supply. The module IS reparable. Go to Vic Rocha’s site. I have used his service and highly recommend him. In addition to having a better than stock module, the cost is less than 1/3 of a new unit. His web site is: http://home.earthlink.net/~vicrocha/ As for hints to replace the unit. Make sure you have the right tool. I used a ¼” drive. Fit the socket onto the screw, and then put the drive on. Do Not over-tighten the screws when replacing. As for more detail, Vic’s site has excellent instructions. Good Luck |
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I am getting ready to sell my '95. 850 wagon. I have had a good experience and just wanted to wish all you Volvo people the best of wishes and happy driving. Regards.....Irish |
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| Sorry to see you leave the Volvo discussions...glad to see you in the Subaru ones though! | |
| I am thinking of purchasing a 1995 850 turbo wagon. I don't know much about Volvo's, I have always owed VW' s. Can anyone please give advice at what to look for and how strong are the turbo on this year. Mileage is 112,000 | |
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My non-turbo wagon has 100,000 miles. Whenever I hit bumps in the road the driver's seat moves by itself. Since it is a power seat, could it be the switch? How difficult or expensive is it to replace the rear seal on the engine? I have an oil leak. The last question is about the transmission. How many miles will I get from the auto tranny? I still get 25MPG. |
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A good friend of mine has a 1997 850 GLT that just went over the 200,000 mile mark. Still has the original engine, automatic transmission and turbo (he uses Mobil 1 synthetic and periodically treats the engine with Slick 50). I've ridden in it recently and it is still going strong. I don't think he had the rear seal replaced yet, but I'll ask him anyway. He gets around 28 mpg on the highway, and around 22-25 around town. |
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