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Volvo 850 Wagons

491 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 8:06 PM
You are in the Older Volvo Wagons Forum. Your Host is kcram
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I'm w/Fredrick on this one. I'd pass, if only b/c the tranny is original. I hate automatics and am just stuck w/on one my T5, but that's some serious mileage, even though the '96 trannies were stronger than the early year specimens. Be wary of this particular car, and have it looked at very closely. You said it doesn't have the Volan wheels... I wonder why. What kind of rims are on it? Some nice HREs or some cheapo rims? That will tell you volumes of what to expect from the vehicle, imho. Still... pass. There are others out there in seriously fine shape for good money. |
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The VW dealership also specializes in used imports and provided me the service records since 10,000 miles. The salesman faxed me 20 pages of maint. records. The story is the original owner was unhappy with service at the local Volvo dealership. The 17" Volan were replaced with 16" Borbet wheels after the owner had two or three of them worked on or replaced for getting bent or warped. This was in the service records. The trans. was serviced, and all scheduled maint. seems to have been performed. It seems the owner (supposedly a local doctor) took it in for everything including simple things like light bulbs. The salesman even offered to call the previous owner and let me speak to him about the car. Despite all this I am leary about the 137K miles and should probably search out a local Volvo mechanic and get a Pre Purchase Inspection. I did not find any records of shocks/struts being replaced. Any idea how much shocks/struts are for the 850R? Thank you. |
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My Bilstein HDs just cost me about $500 plus install. FWIW, they're awesome. They feel awesome... a tad stiffer than stock but the ride actually improved over stock b/c the shocks seem to take a bit of the 'crash' out of bumps. 80k miles is about all I'd say you want to go on the stock rims anyway. Does the car have the Nivomat air-ride rear suspension? If so, I'd say go w/conventional shocks, b/c the Nivomats are very expensive. I also recommend getting some good rotors (Brembos or Zimmerman slotted rotors), or warped rotors will be the norm. Still... I'd be wary of this car, service records or not. The motor should still have tons of life left, but the miles worry me for the transmission. It'll set you back $3k-$4k if that goes out on you. |
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Given that you've seen the records, and that the dealer is trying to calm your fears(in spite of what Fred thinks of them) I think if you can get the car for Alot of people replaced the low profile tires on those cars because of ride and tire issues so no concern there. ANY car w/ 137,000 miles isn't going to be a paragon of reliability, there will be things that need to be replaced. I'd have an experienced Volvo shop look the car over and go from there. |
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| Thanks Lancerfixer for the advice on the rotors. One other thing. i've also lately been getting the ABS and Tracs Off lights come on the dash from time to time. This happened a couple of years ago on a long trip and when I took it to the dealer, they couldn't find anything wrong. The brakes do their shudder thing occasionally. it all seems totally random. Also the check engine light is on all the time. I have 70,000 on the wagon. Is it true that that light will come on if you don't change the timing belt after so many miles or is it totally bogus? | |
| Just got new rotors and brake shudder problem seem to be gone... Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for the advice guys! | |
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| Did they torque the wheels down with a hand torque wrench, or an air wrench? If it's the latter, prepare for the rotor warpage problem to return. It'd be worth your while (and a few bucks) to have them hand torqued at an independent shop or tire place when you get the opportunity. | |
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Personally I never ride in the rear of my 850 but recently a bunch of friends wanted to tour Napa and they all choose the Volvo Wagon over their own PT Cruiser rental and a VW Golf. Ours was the only decent 5 passenger car. The problem was that the right rear passenger window would go down no problem when my friend activated the switch but it would not go up unless I activated it from the forward console. Any good cheap ways to maybe solve this problem without ripping out the entire interior door panel? I hate doing that sorta stuff cause invariably there are fragile plastic clips that you don't have a clue how they opperate until you break a few. Then the panel never seems to fit back into its orginal position. Questions: #1 Can the rear door window switch be easily pulled without removing the panel? #2 What are the tools and tricks? #3 Is it possible to just lie to you friends and tell them you'll bring your Yugo next time they want to go touring in Napa? Thx, F. |
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Start reading Your potential purchase concerns will be nearly identical to KCC455's except for the rims. I have not comment on the price because beyond price and mileage nothing else is listed. It is within the ball park though. Peace, F. |
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