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Volvo 850 Wagons

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#282 of 491 95 850 Turbo Purchase by FREDERICK Jul 21, 2003 (3:10 pm)
Philly-   I like the idea of the way you found this car and the verbal agreement that this seller is willing to stand by and fix the probalems at no labor charge. Does he own the shop?   The 850 is the "new" Volvo platform from which most current Volvo's are derived. The old rear wheel drive platform are completely different machines. They were more Chevy Caprice in their nature and Swedish road going tanks. The new Volvo's are quite buttoned down and sportier in nature.   Do not relate your friend's 760 experience to what you might expect with an 850.   Javadoc- maybe you can jump in here but it is my understanding that the 850 engine was a totally new power plant. Along with the fact that it is a front wheel drive car it was a nearly ground up new design from the Volvo's we'd known before.   My final concern is that you have documented proof of the work that is claimed to have been done on this car. An automatic transmission replacement on 93-95 850's has been a common complaint and it alone could cost $2,500-3,000, of course a lot of that is probably labor.   I own a 96 850 auto wagon with 82,000 on the odom. I have seen none of these problems with my car that you are reading about. If Dad is not a big mileage guy and the tranny is good, you probably are not too far off for $5,000.   Best Wishes,   F.
#283 of 491 Fredrick by javadoc Jul 21, 2003 (8:13 pm)
Yes, from what I know, the engine in the 850s was a new design, being an aluminum block/head design as well. I know of no issues w/the motor itself. I think I've heard it referred to as the 'white' motor, and the old iron block motors being referred to as 'red' motors... I assume that this is b/c of the aluminum (white) and/or iron (red) block materials.
#284 of 491 850 Wagon Brake Shudder by cap99 Jul 23, 2003 (11:18 am)
FREDERICK: I also experience an occasional deep hum.shudder to the brakes. It seems to happen after I've driven for more than 20 minutes and at longer distances/higher speeds. When it does happen, it's when I apply the brakes halfway and come to a rolling stop. The car almost feels like the bottoms dropping out. I have also had a pad replacement weeks ago. Anyone else with ideas on this?
#285 of 491 by javadoc Jul 23, 2003 (12:02 pm)
Warped rotors, would be my guess. Did you have the rotors turned/resurfaced when you replaced the pad?   I had all kinds of warpage issues w/the stock rotors, until I installed some quality slotted units. Haven't had the problem since.   my .02
#286 of 491 Slotted Rotors by FREDERICK Aug 01, 2003 (3:54 pm)
So that is your dirty lil secret.   My car is on it's second set of rotots since new. The first set was resurfaced just before we bought the car the second set I assume was Volvo certified since it was done at a dealership. Where did these slotted rotors come from Jav and how much did they cost?   My car's brakes still hum when you apply moderate pressure while stopping on a decent but I've been assured that this is most likely the ABS working. The car stops no problem and there is no shudder felt in the steering wheel so I left it alone.   Peace,   D.
#287 of 491 slotted rotors by javadoc Aug 01, 2003 (10:46 pm)
Why Fredrick, I got them at none other than... Link coming...   ipdusa.com. It'll be your favorite Volvo shopping spot if you don't already know about it.   I have metallic pads, and they're pretty noisy. They squeek nicely when cold, but they stop nicely, for stock calipers. The rotors are about $200 a pair.
#288 of 491 96 850R with 137K buy or pass? by kcc455 Aug 17, 2003 (4:50 am)
I am interested in a 96 850 R with 137K miles and I am new to Volvo's and looking for advice. One owner, with all maintenance records. No Major repairs like trans. or engine rebuilds. It does not have the original 17" Volan wheels. Body is in good shape but has some scratches, fading, etc. A VW dealer has it listed for $8,900. I am thinking $7,500 is my top dollar. Any advice on future maintenance items to be wary of? What do you think about the price?   Thank you.
#289 of 491 Brake Shudder by ivyfchu Aug 17, 2003 (12:35 pm)
I own a '94 850 and I have the same brake shudder problem as described by cap99. The first time it happened was a couple of years ago and it cost me around $1000 to fix it at the dealer. (I believe they replaced all the pads and rotors). Now it is happening again.... I tried to be cheap and just replaced the brake pads at a local Firestone but the shudder is still happening. I really don't want to spend $1000 at the dealer again... Any suggestions?
#290 of 491 Yeah... by lancerfixer Aug 17, 2003 (5:30 pm)
Do not, repeat do not, bring it to the dealer for service. Find a reputable independent shop that specialized in imports, or even better Volvos in particular, that will do the work. The shudder is very likely caused by a warped rotor, which can be caused by any number of things, like if you've had the tires replaced or rotated. If the wheel nuts aren't torqued evenly and to factory specs, the rotors can warp. There are several brands of aftermarket rotor that will stop better and resist warpage better than the factory Volvo units. I replaced mine with Brembo rotors and haven't had a problem (though my independent shop torques the wheel nuts by hand, with a torque wrench, not an airgun.) For reference, I spent a little over $700 (including labor) for Brembo rotors and PBR brake pads, both of which are an upgrade over the factory parts, and it still wasn't as much as the dealer's price. My feeling is, if it's out of warranty, don't waste your money at the dealer.
#291 of 491 KCC-Purchassing a 96 R w/ 137K by FREDERICK Aug 18, 2003 (4:51 pm)
Kcc455-   You are looking at a rare bird on that VW lot but I'm affraid I already see a lot of potential road kill with buzzards already circling in your future with this car.   My recomendation, since you obviously have not deeply researched the past history of 850's posted on this board is that you not buy this car.   Here are my reasons: You state it is being sold by a VW dealership, i.e. a total "As Is" purchase. Heck, I'd bet even they would not have a clue as to what potentially could be wrong with this car nor would they likely disclose it to you anyway.   2nd: If you are going to buy the car used from a new car dealership they will not disclose anything to you about the true condition of the car beyond the summary of it starts, it drives, and the brakes and blinkers work. They will not have any of the previous owner's records on what repair history this car has been and if they did they would have immediatly chucked them in the trash for legal reasons before they put the car on their lot for sale.   Potential Problems in a Nut Shell with 850R's:   1. Transmission, has this been replaced?   2. Evaporative Cooler/Air conditioning unit,     has it been replaced, and now does your     dashboard now squeak?   3. Does this R still have all the orginal rims     with the low profile tires and are the rims     all in good condition?   KCC- these are the major problems you'd need to know about before buying an 850. If any one of them becomes a problem after you own the car you are looking at an additional 1/4 of the bargain price you think you are gonna pay in repair bills. If you still want think you want to this car go to really qualified independent Volvo mechanic and get a total no $'s spared inspection on the car.   If I were to hazard to guess, the owner of this Volvo traded it in for a new Passat Wagon or Tourage and probably knew some hefty repairs were lurking under the hood of this car.   So think about it and research, research, and research this car some more.   Peace,   Frederick

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