- #90 of 419
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Re: 1990 Stalling Mazda-Only on RightTurns [natspats]
by johnp618
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Oct 02, 2005 (5:31 am)
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Replying to: natspats (Jul 20, 2005 12:55 pm)
I have the same problem with my 90 Mazda with an automaic transmission. I'm not sure about the gas level part tho. Did you ever find the problem with it?
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- #91 of 419
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1987 Mazda 323 SE
by longshot1
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Oct 03, 2005 (3:15 pm)
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Ok...This car is about to get killed if I cant fix it.
It seems to drive fine in cooler temps. When it hits warmer times in the afternoon.. it will run for a little then just die like it looses fire or fuel. Give it like 30 seconds to a minute...and it will start for a while. Maybe 1/2 mile down the road...it dies again. I bought a new Ignition coil, new spark plugs and new wires. Checked the Distibutor and Rotor...they look almost new. What the heck is wrong!!!! So frustrated right now.
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- #92 of 419
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Re: 1987 Mazda 323 SE [longshot1]
by fixedmine
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Oct 04, 2005 (11:07 pm)
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Replying to: longshot1 (Oct 03, 2005 3:15 pm)
My 89 Mazda 323 stalled after decelerations. When I removed the rotor I noted it had a hole next to the center contactor were spark had been jumping through to distributor shaft. Also had an older Chev years ago would stall in turn. Distributor shaft bushing worn allowing shaft to lean and change breaker point gap. Don't know that electonic ignition is clearance sensitive that way. Another car had a piece of solder that slid around the gas tank and partially blocked the takeup screen against the line.
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- #93 of 419
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88 Mazda 323 nearing 300K miles
by kiffer01
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Oct 12, 2005 (10:00 am)
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My 88 323 is nearing 300k miles, but is starting to show it's age in many ways. It is burning some oil and now the bushing in the rack and pinion steering is gone causing some clunking in the steering. Does anyone have some serious suggestions on solving the problems...rebuild or replace engine (1.6 L) and can you get a new bushing to put in the rack and pinion? It still gets me from point A to point B and back everyday (75 miles round trip) and can't think about buying a newer car right now. It was new when my wife bought it and I inherited it when the minivan was acquired to hold our 6 kids. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
These cars are not perfect, but they do go a long way with a little TLC.
Chris
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- #94 of 419
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Re: Car stopped running-'88 323-cannot find problem-HELP [lurnjac]
by dodgelightning
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Oct 23, 2005 (9:00 am)
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Replying to: lurnjac (May 21, 2005 7:54 pm)
Hve you solved your problem yet?
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- #95 of 419
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Re: FUEL TANK DIAGRAM - FUEL TANK HELP [sonixboom]
by dodgelightning
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Oct 23, 2005 (9:21 am)
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Replying to: sonixboom (Apr 25, 2005 2:28 pm)
REmove your back seat (just the part you sit on) and you will find a 5x7 approx. cover plate, remove it and all you fuel elements are there, ie pump, float,and sending unit. That is if you have a hatchback. Or it could be in the trunk area underneath the liner
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- #96 of 419
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Mazdas not Starting
by dodgelightning
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Oct 23, 2005 (9:41 am)
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I just scanned the mazda forum board, to see what was posted. I notice a few of you giving some good troubleshooting advice on mazdas not starting, but you have over look one little component that cost no more that $20, but then again I found Experienced mechanics over look it. The part I am talking about is located on your distributor, it is a little (1/2"x1/2") square, known as a capacitor that is some how tied in the the charging and starting system, if that is broken or is open (in electronic term) the engine will not start no matter what you do in other areas. If it going bad it will then work for a while and the heat up causing the engine to stall. Check that out and let me know what happened.
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- #98 of 419
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HOLD LIGHT ON MADZA
by skoot
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Oct 27, 2005 (5:34 am)
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WHAT DOES THE HOLD BUTTON MEAN WHEN IT LIGHTS UP?
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- #99 of 419
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Re: 88 Mazda 323 nearing 300K miles [kiffer01]
by jjazz
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Oct 28, 2005 (8:16 am)
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Replying to: kiffer01 (Oct 12, 2005 10:00 am)
I purchased a 1988 323 several years back from a friend of mine and it has passed 323k miles. You're right its not perfect but is a great work transportation (90 miles round trip). My does consumes oil and I've been using 5W-30 with slick additives. And sometimes I use engine restore oil plus regular oil. I'd suggest getting the rack and pinion replaced, cheaper to work on it yourself. I do most of my repairs, except deep engine or transmission problems. I had the transmission relaced by a shop, cost $$. but with high gas prices I need this ride to get me to work. Currently I'm troubleshooting my heater problem. My temp gauge does not reach half way as it use to, and the heater only blows cool air.
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