Last post on Oct 21, 2013 at 9:17 AM
You are in the Mazda 323
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Mazda 323, Hatchback
Jan 29, 2001 (2:41 pm)
hey dudes, i got this mazda 323 and its been
great except for one thing when its cold and wet
it doesn't start, it just cranks and cranks, but doesn't start, its a 1992 323 with 104K and a five speed, can anyone help me out? my spanish
teacher, who's a car enthusiast, and has owned around twenty mazda's, says its probably the distributor cap getting moisture in it, can anyone corroborate this? i'm also looking into mazda RX-7's, anyone know about em?
Jan 30, 2001 (6:06 am)
Sounds like that is exactly the problem. If the distributor cap cracks, it can allow either moisture to get in or sparks to come out. Both cause problems. If moisture gets in, it will cause the car to be difficult to start until the cap dries. If spark gets out, it will cause the engine to sputter. The cap only costs maybe $20 at your local part store and is very easy to replace. You should also replace the rotor at the same time as the cap. It is the small triangular shaped object that rotates around inside the cap. Anyway, replace the cap and your car should run as good as new again. As far as the RX-7, what years were you looking at? Each generation has their own unique problems, but overall they are fun cars to drive. I own an 84 RX-7, so I can try to answer some general questions about them.
Jan 30, 2001 (1:45 pm)
i'm looking at an 86 RX 7, its a second gen, got a new tranny and motor, looks great, runs good, been kept up really well, its got a high performance exhaust system, it makes it really loud,
Jan 30, 2001 (6:15 pm)
If it has a completely rebuilt engine, than it may be a pretty good car. Avoid the turbo, as they put more stress on the rotary engine and are less reliable. My 84 has been very reliable over the past year, despite the fact I bought it for $200. All it has needed was a new starter, left front rotor, caliper and a set of pads, and a clutch slave cylinder. It always starts up first time and runs really good. However, you MUST be religious in changing the oil every 3000 miles max. Rotary engines actually burn oil by design so you must also get in the habit of checking the oil level at least once every 2 weeks if not more. I recommend using Catrol 20W-50 oil as that is what is recommended by numerous places. Rotary engines run hotter than a piston engine, so the thicker weight oil is better for it. DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL! It can cause major problems with the rotor seals and lead to an engine failure. I can't think of anything else to tell you. Was there any specific questions you had about it? Hope my advice helps.
Feb 01, 2001 (7:30 pm)
thanks for the info
#13 of 455 The RX7 and 323
Feb 02, 2001 (3:26 pm)
are two totally different cars. Can't even imagine these two cars owned by the same person. RX7 is a purist sports car for someone who has the skill to drive it right and who has the mechanical knowledge to fix it when it breaks down, which is not at all infrequent .
The 323, especially the strip version, on the other hand, is the car for cheap guys like myself, who is constantly looking for good reliable transportation for the least money.
Feb 02, 2001 (8:11 pm)
If you are a cheap guy, than you would have loved my 84 RX7. It was amazingly dependable and has never left me stranded in the year I have owned it. It always starts up first try and never stalls. Total amount of money I have put into it in a year, including the $200 purchase price, is a paltry $500. And we are not talking about a beater rusted out piece of junk that only a mother could love. This car is still gorgeous after all these years and constantly gets admiring looks. The paint is in good condition, the body has no dents, scratches, or rust, and the interior is in excellent condition considering its age. Granted, the AC doesn't work, and it has its quirks (carbureator hesitates some, clutch is not the easiest to engage smoothly, the exhaust has a few leaks which causes some stinky smells to get into the car, and it burns oil by design so you must check it often, though it does not visibly smoke). Anyway, sorry for blabbing about the RX7 in the 323 forum, but I thought you might be interested in how cheap to operate some RX7s really are. It has been the cheapest car to operate that I have ever owned!!
Feb 04, 2001 (11:07 am)
i gotta say that i love my 323, but i'm longing for something faster, i just started a job at a car dealership and am learning a lot about cars lately, i'm trying to decide whether to put money into my 323 or if i should save up for something faster and more fun, from what i understand, my 323 will run forever as long as i change the oil every 3000mi, but, if i get something like an rx7, i'll have to spend a lot more time to take care of it, well we'll see what i've got money for!!
#16 of 455 Mazda 323 stalling problem--please help!
Feb 17, 2001 (10:18 pm)
Hi, I really need some help. I've got a 1992 MAZDA 323 that has a recurring stalling problem
that no one has been able to solve. If you have advice about how to solve it, or if you know
where I can get good advice (via another web-posting or some other source), I'd really appreciate
hearing from you.
The pattern of stall-outs is seemingly indecipherable. It will stall on the highway or just going
around the block. It usually gives a hesitation or two, and the accelerator becomes useless for
10-60 seconds before it stalls completely. It's a standard transmission, and if necessary while
driving I can turn the car turn the car off as the stall threatens and then turn it back on–and it then runs fine again. Likewise, if it stalls out completely, I can turn off the car and then start it
immediately with no problem. The interval between stall-outs is usually at least a day and
sometimes weeks. Go figure.
This problem first occurred in about 1993. No one could solve it, but it disappeared. Then it
returned a few years after that. And now it's back again, off and on since the fall of 2000.
Here's a record of what my latest mechanic has tried:
–Tried to duplicate problem but couldn't.
–Completed tuneup: sparkplugs, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, oil change.
–Checked for computer fault codes. Found code 17. This code refers to the oxygen sensor, the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and the computer itself.
–Fuel-pressure test showed fuel pressure to be just a touch above normal (if it was lower than
normal it would have been a good chance that it was source of the stalling problem). This test
was done with the car hooked to a gas analyzer which registers the fuel/air ratio.
–Replaced oxygen sensor and fuel pressure regulator, and checked these new parts with the car hooked to the gas analyzer. The car was run for quite a while and monitored throughout the day but never stalled, nor did the fuel/air ratio change at anytime. Car stalled out several days later, and a few more times after that.
–With no facts to condemn the fuel pump or computer (which are the only items left that the fault code refers to), the mechanic feels there is not much else to do except replace the fuel pump and/or computer. But these items are not cheap and there is no guarantee that they will fix the problem.
Please help. Thanks!
#17 of 455 try replace vacuum hose?
Feb 19, 2001 (11:53 am)
I had a similar problem with a used 81 buick skylark. turn out to be something as simple as the vacuum hose being old and craked. Replace the old hoses and no more problem.